Shopsmith Forums

mgdesigns wrote:

mgdesigns wrote: Other Q's:
1) ....
2) Starting this unit is iffy sometimes it seems bound up and has tripped the circuit breaker once. And the speed dial worked but not instantly. The unit seems to stall when getting down to the slowest speed which is where I've been running it for the bandsaw attachment and drill & coarse cutting on the lathe operations.[/QUOTE] Any Ideas?
3) Do I need to overhaul the drive train?
4) At what speed should the unit be shut down and re-started?

1)???

2) It needs to be started while set to slo speed. That reduces the startup torque required of the motor. The Greenie has a 3/4HP motor.

3) Recommended(not necessarily overhaul, but make sure it is properly lubricated).

4) See #2

P.S. The 'stalling at slow speed' may be caused by the motor belt slipping, which could be caused by the floating sheave not being sufficiently lubricated to position itself properly on the motor pulley, or a similar condition of the control sheave/idler pulley.

I was turning a set of walnut pen blanks, and I was sanding them when the spped slowed and the output shaft on the quill stopped rotating. The motor sounded strained so I shut it off. At the time I was at middle range of speed and trying to go faster. I unplugged and removed the front cover to see if I could detect the problem. I did remove the v-belt and that was easy enough to do. But it appears the variable pitch pulleys are not shifting. I am hoping all they need is some lubrication or grease, but not having ever seen inside of this beast I am just guessing.

The motor turns freely and the drive pulley from the motor to the speed adjuster shaft was moving, but the adjustable top pulley was not spinning. I shut it off and on a few times trying to lower the speed with each attempt. The speed when lowered whould sieze the motor. At one point I hand turned the quill shaft to try give it a running start, and it almost started. But no go now. The Gilmer Pulley seems tight (maybe too tight), and the quill did turn initially. But now if I turn the quill shaft by hand the Gilmer belt does not move and the toothed gear on the top shaft doesn't move but the shaft must be turning.

This is an older Greenie gearbox and there is no SS Name Badge on the opposite side of the speed adjuster, so I dropped the motor pan and tried to see inside but I am not so limber anymore. Maybe Sunday I can stand it up, and try to remove the motor and start to inspect shafts and bearings.

mgdesigns wrote:I was turning a set of walnut pen blanks, and I was sanding them when the spped slowed and the output shaft on the quill stopped rotating. The motor sounded strained so I shut it off. At the time I was at middle range of speed and trying to go faster. I unplugged and removed the front cover to see if I could detect the problem. I did remove the v-belt and that was easy enough to do. But it appears the variable pitch pulleys are not shifting. I am hoping all they need is some lubrication or grease, but not having ever seen inside of this beast I am just guessing.

The motor turns freely and the drive pulley from the motor to the speed adjuster shaft was moving, but the adjustable top pulley was not spinning. I shut it off and on a few times trying to lower the speed with each attempt. The speed when lowered whould sieze the motor. At one point I hand turned the quill shaft to try give it a running start, and it almost started. But no go now. The Gilmer Pulley seems tight (maybe too tight), and the quill did turn initially. But now if I turn the quill shaft by hand the Gilmer belt does not move and the toothed gear on the top shaft doesn't move but the shaft must be turning.

This is an older Greenie gearbox and there is no SS Name Badge on the opposite side of the speed adjuster, so I dropped the motor pan and tried to see inside but I am not so limber anymore. Maybe Sunday I can stand it up, and try to remove the motor and start to inspect shafts and bearings.

The Gilmer version has a torque limiting clutch on the upper shaft.

From this description I believe you have two different problems.

1) Both the control sheave(on the idler shaft) and the and the floating sheave(ion the motor shaft) need lubrication. They are not responding to the speed changer movement.

2) The output shaft clutch probably is slipping. This requires disassembly of the upper shaft. Bill Mayo has these rebuilt, and MickyD can tell you how he fixed his.

It appears the Greenie has not been lubricated sufficiently in the past, so the BEST thing to do is to tear it down, clean the innards up, lubricate , reassemble, and kiss this problem good bye, and lubricate often in the future. If Yours is an older Greenie with NO oil holes, they need to be 'added'.

Is there anyway to add the access cover (name plate to the opposite side of the speed control)? This would sure make life easier in the future. Thanks ahead of time.

Can you provide the link to the teardown again on the Sawdust Sessions? I started to watch this a few days ago, but I don't have the link anymore.

I did a Google and found this link for Norm fixing a Goldie MkV:
http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Arch ... rn_Pt2.htm

I am thoroughly impressed with the level of support that this organization provides to its users of old equipment. I work for a computer company here in Nashville in Tech Support, and I wish we had these kinds of videos the help our customers. This is so superb, it is mind boggling that this resource is available for free. Thank you Shopsmith.

mgdesigns wrote:I did a Google and found this link for Norm fixing a Goldie MkV:
http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Archives/SS122/SS122_Shopsmith_Reborn_Pt2.htm

I am thoroughly impressed with the level of support that this organization provides to its users of old equipment. I work for a computer company here in Nashville in Tech Support, and I wish we had these kinds of videos the help our customers. This is so superb, it is mind boggling that this resource is available for free. Thank you Shopsmith.

Norm??? I think that you have made a slight(?) error.

a1gutterman wrote:Norm??? I think that you have made a slight(?) error.

Hey! He got the first letter right(the larger one)!:D Wrong part of the country also!:rolleyes:

My BAD - Nick Engler - not Norm (New Yankee Workshop guy). Big deal. SS Take the Kudos and run with it.

I am still very impressed with the level of support this organization has put forth to supplement its lines of products. A rank novice such as myself can dig through the archives and with the help of forums like this one, I'll be able to get this machine running again. Probably better than it ever has (I hope).

No one has addressed the previous question:

Is there anyway to add the access cover (name plate to the opposite side of the speed control)?

mgdesigns wrote:My BAD - Nick Engler - not Norm (New Yankee Workshop guy). Big deal. SS Take the Kudos and run with it.

I am still very impressed with the level of support this organization has put forth to supplement its lines of products. A rank novice such as myself can dig through the archives and with the help of forums like this one, I'll be able to get this machine running again. Probably better than it ever has (I hope).

No one has addressed the previous question:

Is there anyway to add the access cover (name plate to the opposite side of the speed control)?

Since it had the 'logo/medallion' originally, and I assume it still has, but without an access hole underneath it, I am interpreting the question as 'is there a way to make an access hole under the medallion.

Yes, BUT it will not have the 'fangs'(tabs that locate the medallion radial position) nor will the medallion have the retaining spring on its back. A totally round hole slightly smaller than the medallion can be cut into the headstock at the medallions current location. The original locating holes can be partially retained by making the hole slightly smaller and leaving a part of those holes just outside the outer circumference of the new hole. The medallion may be retained by using screws in the flat raised pads at the top and bottom of the medallion with clips or tapped into the headstock.

IMHO it is not worth the effort, since any task to be performed(other than mere 'looking') is more easily done with the motor/pan dropped out of the way.

Bill Mayo has done this and could help you with any ???

This is an old Greenie and there isn't any access hole on the opposite side of the speed control dial, and no nameplate medallion to cover it. I just thought for ease of maintenance I might be able cut a hole in that side and provide the attachment hole or lugs for the tapped screws. That way I might not have to remove the motor and pan to gain access to the main lube points. Just a thought and I wondered if anyone else has done this mod.