Most counter top fabricators, locally here in central Fla., just use contact cement to fasten corian or hardwood edges to counter top substrate (it will work on natural or cultured marble too. It works well, it's fast, but there are some things I don't like about it.
There is no adjustment while applying for one. Also, there will be a discrete yellow glue line that can't be sanded away. I looks cheap with white materials.
Wood on Marble
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I am putting 12" x 12" marble tile (1/4" think) on top of a bathroom vanity and need to cut the circle out for the sink.
The center of the sink is where four corners of the tile meet.
I was considering attempting to use a rotozip, jigsaw, or router to cut out a sink hole in the tile? Does anybody have any suggestions if any of these methods will work? If so, what type blade is suggested?
I was thinking I should cut out the sink in the wood on top of the vanity and then lay the tile over the hole and then cut through the tile with one of the above methods. Having pre-cut the hole in the wood, I would be able to use it is a blade guide while cutting the tile.
Also, I am intending to use F26 glue rather than thinset to attach the tile to the plywood. I intend to butt the tiles up to one another with no grout space between. I plan to use a thin silicon layer between joints. Anybody have any thoughts on this? I want to come as close as possible to the appearance of a solid marble top, so I thought the F26 glue and the silicone in joints would provide a greater chance of a completely flat surface.
FYI: I have no extra pieces of marble tile to test with. I bought one box of tile which is exactly enough.
The center of the sink is where four corners of the tile meet.
I was considering attempting to use a rotozip, jigsaw, or router to cut out a sink hole in the tile? Does anybody have any suggestions if any of these methods will work? If so, what type blade is suggested?
I was thinking I should cut out the sink in the wood on top of the vanity and then lay the tile over the hole and then cut through the tile with one of the above methods. Having pre-cut the hole in the wood, I would be able to use it is a blade guide while cutting the tile.
Also, I am intending to use F26 glue rather than thinset to attach the tile to the plywood. I intend to butt the tiles up to one another with no grout space between. I plan to use a thin silicon layer between joints. Anybody have any thoughts on this? I want to come as close as possible to the appearance of a solid marble top, so I thought the F26 glue and the silicone in joints would provide a greater chance of a completely flat surface.
FYI: I have no extra pieces of marble tile to test with. I bought one box of tile which is exactly enough.
I recently finished a bathroom vanity topped with ceramic tile and used a dry-cut diamond blade on an angle grinder. I first knocked off the corners of the four tiles and then nibbled away what remained in order to create the radius to match the size of the drain. The inexpensive blade came from Harbor Freight and worked quite well. I used thinset to attach the tile to cement board that I screwed to the plywood vanity top, but grouted between the tiles, so I can't comment on your approach.
Art in Western Pennsylvania
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JPG
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What is 'under' the marble? Does the sun shine directly on the marble?kate16 wrote:Why is marble floor hotter than carpeted floor in summer!
The carpet will act 'like' an insulator and not transfer heat to/from de feet.
The marble WILL transfer heat to/from de feet. Not as well as metal, but better than carpet.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Agreed
Just recently (as in like last week) I put down a marble tile floor in a bathroom and needed a similar cutout for the toilet flange. Having no experience, I found a tile guy and paid him $25 to cut the four tiles. He uses an angle grinder with a blade purposed for cutting stone (probably a dry-cut diamond blade but I really don't know) that he bought at a local flooring supplier. He cut the bulk of it straight and then nibbled in the curve. It worked really well and took him very little time. Next time I'll know and go buy a blade for my grinder.pennview wrote:I recently finished a bathroom vanity topped with ceramic tile and used a dry-cut diamond blade on an angle grinder. I first knocked off the corners of the four tiles and then nibbled away what remained in order to create the radius to match the size of the drain. The inexpensive blade came from Harbor Freight and worked quite well. I used thinset to attach the tile to cement board that I screwed to the plywood vanity top, but grouted between the tiles, so I can't comment on your approach.
So, you have two options here: find a tile guy and pay him, go buy a blade
'55 Greenie #292284 (Mar-55), '89 SS 510 #020989, Mark VII #408551 (sold 10/14/12), SS Band Saw, (SS 500 #36063 (May-79) now gone to son-in-law as of 11-11), Magna bandsaw, Magna jointer 16185 (May-54), Magna belt sander SS28712 (Dec-82), Magna jigsaw SS4397 (Dec-78), SS biscuit joiner, Zyliss (knockoff) vise, 20+ hand planes, 60s Craftsman tablesaw, CarbaTec mini-lathe, and the usual pile of tools. Hermit of the Hills Woodworks, a hillbilly in the foothills of the Ozarks, scraping by.