Shopsmith Forums

robinson46176 wrote:The 10-ER is actually a better candidate for converting to metal work since it is made so much more rigid and heavier than a Mark V.

And - EXTERNAL speed control!

Probably the coolest thing that can be done quickly is the slitting saw blade mounted to the spindle with the special table. This is cool since I've cut very thin banding using a technique that was on Major League Woodworking. But, that technique took some setup. This could be cool to use, won't drag the thinly cut piece through any gaps in the blade and table and will cut very smooth.
Looked up slitting saws in my msc catalog and you can get them, made in usa, for just about any size with a 1 inch hole. You already should have that adapter.

PS, it should be a higher tooth count blade. Can't tell from the pic but it looks to be about 80-90 tooth.

I've used a slitting saw on the shopsmith to cut the notches for feather splines (key splines) in the corners of small boxes with mitered corners. Grizzly or other metalworking outfits like MSC or Enco carry the arbors and saw blades. The arbor I have has a 1/2" shank and the saw holding end is stepped to accept slitting saw blades with various sized holes. You can mount the arbor in the drill chuck or perhaps the 1/2" router bit chuck.

holsgo, I sent you a private message via the forum regarding the HSM article.

Pennview, check your PM's. I need your email if I didn't send it to you already.

holsgo wrote:Pennview, check your PM's. I need your email if I didn't send it to you already.

Holsgo, check your e-mail!;)

Done. Thanks. Can't seem to do that yet myself. Downloaded a converter but it only works with some .net software I'm missing.