Bandsaw Window Upgrade
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- stephen_a._draper
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Why bother
I don't really see the need at all. The only time I change the tension on my bandsaw is when I change blades and you have to remove the cover anyway to do that.
Shopsmith Mark 4, Mark 7, Mark 5 shorty, planer, bandsaw, jointer, belt sander. Grizzly central dust collection 4" PVC trunk. Shopsmith Routing System stand-alone overhead pin router.
Stephen A. Draper
Author of Mark 4/7/520™ Self-Study Course ©2025
Stephen A. Draper
Author of Mark 4/7/520™ Self-Study Course ©2025
- robinson46176
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- Location: Central Indiana (Shelbyville)
stephen_a._draper wrote:I don't really see the need at all. The only time I change the tension on my bandsaw is when I change blades and you have to remove the cover anyway to do that.
The current thinking at least on this forum seems to be to remove the tension when not using the bandsaw...
I must confess to not forming that habit (yet).

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farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
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- horologist
- Gold Member
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- Joined: Sat Dec 22, 2007 6:36 pm
- Location: Melrose, FL
Stephen,
It isn’t much bother. As Francis mentioned there are people who feel it important to remove tension on the blade when not using the saw. This is to help prevent damage to tires and bearings and meshes well with what I was taught in caring for my lathes. But don’t take my word, a quick Google search will reveal plenty of other recommendations. However, as I keep a wide blade on my saw and can go for months between sawing sessions I chose to relieve the blade tension. You are welcome to do as you feel best for your saw.
For those who wish to remove the blade tension, the modification makes sense as removing the cover is a nuisance. This leaves three options:
1. Cut the hole and leave it open. I was concerned that this would reduce dust collector efficiency.
2. Cut the hole and attach a piece of clear plastic with adhesive, pop rivets, etc. nothing wrong with this perfectly functional approach.
3. Cut the hole and install the Shopsmith window. This brings your cover to current blueprint configuration. Form and function maintained.
I posted the template and procedure as an aid for anyone interested in making the modification.
Foxtrapper,
Good design philosophy, especially if you want to install a window in your airplane. However in this case the cover is completely nonstructural and will no doubt crumble to dust before cracks form.
Troy
It isn’t much bother. As Francis mentioned there are people who feel it important to remove tension on the blade when not using the saw. This is to help prevent damage to tires and bearings and meshes well with what I was taught in caring for my lathes. But don’t take my word, a quick Google search will reveal plenty of other recommendations. However, as I keep a wide blade on my saw and can go for months between sawing sessions I chose to relieve the blade tension. You are welcome to do as you feel best for your saw.
For those who wish to remove the blade tension, the modification makes sense as removing the cover is a nuisance. This leaves three options:
1. Cut the hole and leave it open. I was concerned that this would reduce dust collector efficiency.
2. Cut the hole and attach a piece of clear plastic with adhesive, pop rivets, etc. nothing wrong with this perfectly functional approach.
3. Cut the hole and install the Shopsmith window. This brings your cover to current blueprint configuration. Form and function maintained.
I posted the template and procedure as an aid for anyone interested in making the modification.
Foxtrapper,
Good design philosophy, especially if you want to install a window in your airplane. However in this case the cover is completely nonstructural and will no doubt crumble to dust before cracks form.
Troy
The best equipped laundry room in the neighborhood...
Thank you. I used your template to cut a opening in the cover of a Woodmaster (clone) band saw. The cover material was 3/16" thick metal. It already had a hole for the allen wrench, but no way to see the gauge. I made the window out of the clear plastic packaging material that so many things come in now days. I will see how this works. I may have to upgrade to a more solid window, but for now cost was zero. I know your template was for the Shopsmith window and I could have just used a hole saw, but this looks much better.horologist wrote:
I posted the template and procedure as an aid for anyone interested in making the modification.
Thanks again