smsimpson wrote:As Requested Here are some Speed Changer Side Photos:
I was unable to remove the Belt Cover to inspect for Gilmer or Poly V drive because of the following piece that is stuck on the idler shaft i believe is the name. (the shaft that sticks through the SN plate.) Before I go pulling on it, i want to know what it is...
Again there are more Photos in my Flickr if you are interested... it is linked at the top.
Thanks again!
You have a die cast aluminum headstock(referred to as a 'B') =- same as later MarkV.
The motor pan appears(due to what looks like goldie paint color) to be non-original(maybe a 1 1/8 hp?).
That is a 'hub' on the end of that shaft. It should have a set screw. Then it should pull off(unless rusted in place!:().
At least the vent plate(sn ) is age relevant to a greenie.
Also the quill is the older vintage - the dark rust on the portion that protrudes from the headstock appeared to be black oxide - It is not black oxided!
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Also a peak up inside confirmed I do not have the access hole behind the Headstock Logo. So I need to remove the belt off the motor and drop the motor to service everything?
OK sorry for the delay.... I have most of the headstock disassembled... here is the status:
Ok, so I'm stuck at this point.... I can't get the Idler Shaft out
As visible in this next picture I removed the Bolt from between the ears, and removed the screw from the face. My Shopsmith also possesses the set screw in the eccentric Bushing (which Nick discussed in I believe Sawdust Session #23 (the one with the cutaway headstock disassembly and rebuild)) which I also removed. In that SS Nick then slid the eccentric Bushing out of the headstock outward and then pulled the whole idler shaft inward and had that had.... despite much cajoling I can not get the bushing to budge from its spot and therefore cannot remove the idler shaft.... thanks for any ideas..
Penetrating oil should help grease the works and may take several applications. Try using a large flat screwdriver or similar bladed utensil as a pry bar between the two ears that clamp the eccentric bushing. DO SO VERY GENTLY so as not to crack the casting. While prying the ears apart use another screwdriver to pry from the back of the bushing, using the cross member in the casting as a fulcrum.
If the bushing has not budged after penetrating oil, you might also try using a punch to drive it slightly into the headstock, just to get it moving and then pry it out.
You've probably already done all this and I'm not telling you anything new, but you never know.
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Prying Out Eccetric.JPG (62.19 KiB) Viewed 2874 times
If you are not going to save the poly-v belt, I would get that oput of the way as well. If the poly-v is reusable, disregard.
What ever you do, avoid using impact to remove that bearing. The casting can be cracked. Set the headstock on end and apply penetrating oil, let it work, do it again. It will come out.
Patience, Grasshopper!
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Remove the main shaft. This will allow the gilmer belt to be free.
Then push it all into the headstock.(the idler shaft, bearing, bushing and belt)
Separate the bushing/bearing on the bench. (Easier said than done, but 'easier' on the bench)
I assume the bushing is free in the headstock bore, and that the bearing is stuck in the bushing.
P.S. That's a Gilmer belt BTW!
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
