Shopsmith Forums

charlese wrote:
Ever try that with a Shopsmith blade? If not, try it on a piece of scrap. Think you will be surprised. It is still my thought that some more expensive blades are over rated (or over advertised).

Funny you should ask Chuck. It is hard to see but this is a 50 tooth combination Shopsmith blade. I contribute the clean cut to the higher RPM's.

I had to read and reread this post about four times before I figured out what the adjustment blacks were for (how they were used). Even though you answered that very clearly.

I learn something new every day. This technique will serve me well this summer. It really helps in other ways, too. Now I don't have to see to read my depth of cut gauge (it didn't work right anyhow).

Thanks for the tip Mark. You made my day.

Others (I won't say who) will like the story board like technique. It just might make me a convert.

You are very welcome dusty. This trick is one of my favorite things with the SS.
Can't do this with my Unisaw!

Our next step is to edgeband the finished edges.





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Some of you may remember my post about a month ago on this machine. It makes quick work of applying the banding.

Most banding is also available in the iron on versions from many suppliers such as Rockler.





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These are my trimmers. One trims the ends and the other trims the overhanging banding.





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Next step is to drill the adjustable shelf holes.






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Then I make a simple story board to lay out the Domino's that will hold the case together.






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I transfer the marks from the story board to the work piece. Using story boards minimizes the risk of miss measuring.





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Like Shopsmith I cannot say enough good things about Festool. Well I can complain about the cost!:eek:






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Domino holes finished.

Lookin good. Drilling shelf holes like that is just cheating.

[quote="dusty"]I had to read and reread this post about four times before I figured out what the adjustment blacks were for (how they were used). Even though you answered that very clearly.

I learn something new every day. This technique will serve me well this summer. It really helps in other ways, too. Now I don't have to see to read my depth of cut gauge (it didn't work right anyhow).]

What a clever idea!! One of the minor disadvantages of the MkV is that you cannot mount a permanent rip scale to the table system - however, the table height does not change with the different modes.

I'm going to make a set of "story blocks" for common wood thicknesses, as well as a drill press block to set the table centered under the quill.

[quote="dusty"]I had to read and reread this post about four times before I figured out what the adjustment blacks were for (how they were used). Even though you answered that very clearly.

I learn something new every day. This technique will serve me well this summer. It really helps in other ways, too. Now I don't have to see to read my depth of cut gauge (it didn't work right anyhow).]


Great tip.
That is something I have never done on my SS. It fits very well with my policy of "never measure when you can superimpose".
It just may well get me using my 510 as a table saw quite a bit more. It would work on a 10-ER as well.
I can see it being very useful for dado setups.

That method is super simple but makes me wonder how it would be to have a depth stop system built into the table lift that worked like the one on the quill feed?
I immediately start seeing a short block with a socket in it and a stop rod dropped in the hole made of a piece of "All-thread" with two nuts on it. You could just make several in basic heights and have a "fine-tuning" adjustment for each set-up. Probably over kill but then I sometimes do that...

Here is the same concept used on a RAS as a low limit.
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I have found that this special glue bottle designed for biscuits is also great for the domino's. It has a metal tip and the glue comes out on the sides.





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It makes assembly easier to insert the domino's into the shelfs.






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A little painters tape to protect from the clamps.






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Last step is to install some screw strips. I have tacked them in with a couple of brads to help hold in place while I insert the pocket screws.

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This is the finished product. A lot of work for such a simple looking cabinet. And I still have to install it. This is one of those jobs that you cannot charge enough to come out on. It is a small addition to a recent larger job that I did so I chalk up some of the effort to future word of mouth work.