Shopsmith Forums

mbcabinetmaker wrote: I know that I can make them but I would prefer to buy if they are of good quality and set flush. My regular plate does not. It is a little lower than the table and drives me crazy. I have used duct tape to build it up but it only last so long.

A piece of rubber works better than something like tape. Use a piece a little thicker than the needed amount then when you tighten the screws it will compress to the needed thickness. Unlike the tape pad however it will keep pushing back instead of breaking down. Being compressible also avoids having to get a shim the right thickness. Just tighten the screw down to the right thickness and if you go too far just back the screw up a little and it will spring back.


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mbcabinetmaker wrote:Anyone used these (D) plates on their 510/520? Do they set flush with the table? I know that I can make them but I would prefer to buy if they are of good quality and set flush. My regular plate does not. It is a little lower than the table and drives me crazy. I have used duct tape to build it up but it only last so long.



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Use plastic document protectors if you need durability. They measure about .003"; well, at least mine do.

I tried the 1/4 inch Mdf core and although it is a full 1/4 inch it still sets way low. I decided that 1/2 baltic birch plywood was the way to go and with a little resawing and thickness sanding I now have 3 plates that are perfect. This is a Pet Peeve with me because I believe the most dangerous thing about the jobsight table saws are the throat plates that do not fit well. I want mine flush with the surrounding table. Setting low allows the stock to move and is very dangerous on smaller pieces. I think Shopsmith needs to address this with a redesigned plate with adjustments similar to those found on Unisaws and other stationary saws.




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Ya could make the table cutout 'adjustable' like the Model 10 and Bandsaw insert.

Tap several holes into the table and place set screws into them. Then adjust each screw. I would use 6 screws minimum(2@each end, 2 in the middle).

FWIW the Mark 5's inserts were curved slightly. SOP was to tighten the back retaining screw tight and tighten the front screw only til top of insert was flush with table top. That created a flat surface at the infeed side, and assured workpiece would not snag at the rear. Cutting very small pieces was still a 'problem'.

mbcabinetmaker wrote:Anyone used these (D) plates on their 510/520? Do they set flush with the table? I know that I can make them but I would prefer to buy if they are of good quality and set flush. My regular plate does not. It is a little lower than the table and drives me crazy. I have used duct tape to build it up but it only last so long.

I got a couple of the pre-cut blanks a while back. They are so bad I just made some from scratch. Figured if I was going to have to mess with shims and sanding flat and grinding level and all that I might as well start from the beginning. Added value of that is that I won't be piised at these red things every time I look at 'em.

mbcabinetmaker wrote:...
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Well if they don't look just like ceiling fan blades. And I haven't thrown away the blades from the last fan I replaced, either. Flat, strong, smooth, impervious to atmosphere, hm, now if they're the right thickness...

Mark, would you please check my drawings against the ZCI that you made. I am wondering if the table cutouts are universal between the various table models.

I also have a question about the cutout for the blade. Should it be left exactly as the blade cuts it when the table is lowered or should it be made a touch wider so that the blade does not rub. I have been widening it ever so little. I even have a couple that were cut with other than thin kerf blades.

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I find that the thickness needs to be .254" to .257" thick.

dusty wrote:Mark, would you please check my drawings against the ZCI that you made. I am wondering if the table cutouts are universal between the various table models.

I also have a question about the cutout for the blade. Should it be left exactly as the blade cuts it when the table is lowered or should it be made a touch wider so that the blade does not rub. I have been widening it ever so little. I even have a couple that were cut with other than thin kerf blades.

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I find that the thickness needs to be .254" to .257" thick.

I've done a couple using 1/2" MDF and I used the router in a table to cut away unwanted material on the bottom. This worked fairly well. It seems like a perfect job for the OPR.

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dusty wrote:Mark, would you please check my drawings against the ZCI that you made. I am wondering if the table cutouts are universal between the various table models.

I also have a question about the cutout for the blade. Should it be left exactly as the blade cuts it when the table is lowered or should it be made a touch wider so that the blade does not rub. I have been widening it ever so little. I even have a couple that were cut with other than thin kerf blades.

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I find that the thickness needs to be .254" to .257" thick.

Dusty the inserts are pretty much universal on all of my 510's and 520's. The thickness may need to be tweaked but other than that I do no see a problem.

As to the cut out all I did was lower the blade and very slowly tighten the table lock. It moved just a bit but with the blade still running It will stretch the cut out to the correct size.

Thanks for the feedback, Mark. I have been deliberately widening the cut but I'll go for awhile without doing that.