Shopsmith Forums

I would think that your 1/2" plywood would be fine at either angle. Now if your wife decides to add blacksmithing to her crafts you might want to go heavier.


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allmond2002 wrote:I'm a bit confused and want to know the answer.

With a 45 degree angle on .5" of thickness, the cleat surface yields .707" which allows vertical and horizontal to equalize on center of the surface.

With a 60 degree angle on .5" of thickness, the cleat surface yields ~.875" which allows vertical surface pressure to decrease and horizontal surface pressure to increase.

The increase of horizontal pressure makes it weaker at the tip of the angle, yet stronger at the point of pressure contact.

Is this in effect to what everyone is referring? Trying to understand the logic/mathematics.

I didn't think engineering when dissing the 60 Degree angle. Won't be able to back up my opinion except to say that all walls are not straight and cleats don't always fit all the way down. The result may be both upper and lower cleats holding more toward the thinner parts of the angles. Also this is plywood isn't it?

That said, I think Farmer has the correct answer about this project.

I still think the hook method linked to in post #3 is the right approach for his 'smaller' 'boxes'. Resize them accordingly! The hook depth can be kept at 1" if needed to prevent 'jumping off the wall'.

Couldn't get past my wandering mind while on the treadmill this AM. Started thinking about the French Cleats. We have had some discussions about the sawn angle of the cleats. How about this with plywood cleats ----

For discussion sake - Rather then make a 45°, why not make a lesser angle rather than a steeper one. For example; When using 1/2" plywood why not make a 15° or 20° angle. After all any upper horizontal or vertical movement will be stopped by two small screws through the back of the hanging into the wall cleat. To me this would give the maximum resistance to vertically falling. I am offering the lessor angle will give the maximum stability of the methods described above. Of course the stabilizing screws must be used.

[quote="charlese"]Couldn't get past my wandering mind while on the treadmill this AM. Started thinking about the French Cleats. We have had some discussions about the sawn angle of the cleats. How about this with plywood cleats ----

For discussion sake - Rather then make a 45°, why not make a lesser angle rather than a steeper one. For example]
To my feeble narrow mind, the advantage of the french cleat in this application(semi-permanent location) is the ability to move the hanging object when relocation is desired.

I understand the need to 'secure' a kitchen cabinet since it is usually a permanent location. The french cleat is merely used to make single person hanging(of the cabinets) possible.

Now adding the 'securing' screws is less desirable for non-permanent locating and the omission of them is the reason for the concern re bevel depth.

I do not think there is a 'pat' answer since heavier loading would require stouter cleating, and lighter loads would require more 'securing'.

Sharper angles would increase security, and shallower angles would increase load carrying ability. To me the best 'compromise' is the hook since both the bottom edge of the hook and top horizontal portion could both bear on the wall cleat(in bottom of the rabbet and on the top).

Another approach would be to use a shallow angle on a top cleat and a second cleat near the bottom with a steeper angle. The upper cleat would bear the weight, and the lower cleat would provide better 'snuggability'. Maybe reversing these positions would be better???