chiroindixon wrote:What does puzzle me is the conversion to a panel sled. I have studied the photo and my version and cannot figure how they tied the two lead edges together after removing the front bar....nor where the miter bar had to shift to....(Take both off, then move one on the left?) Here's where I break out my SS version. But their version claims to work....
Another modification required, albeit for longer stock, are one, or two "Auxiliary Tables"...(modeled after SS 555526) to keep stock and cutoffs level and prevent saw binding. I made two in about ten minutes.
Doc
Doc
While I have never seen this sled other than in pictures I wonder if the designer just didn't make the table so you could shift the whole table so that the mitre bar that was in the left side mitre slot would fit in the right side mitre slot. The mitre bar that was in the right side could now be in the space between the main table and Aux/floating table? Thinking about it all you would have to do is make the shift and move the sled pass the blade once to have a perfect zero clearance on the left side of the whole sled.
I saw someone using the mitre bar off the table on some thing else, they actually used the space between two floating tables as a mitre bar slot.
As for tying the front end together after they remove the front bridge I would suspect a simple strip of wood 3/4x3x3/4 drilled to fit existing holes would serve this duty well. It wouldn't have to be much since all it is really doing is tying the two sides of the sled together.
As for the price of the sled I agree, I think most of us would be hard pressed to build something with this much capability for much less. The T track, two mitre bars and time alone would probably eat up any savings even if we used only scrap material.
The more I think about this sled the more I like it.
Ed