Shopsmith Forums

Mark, good show -- great tutorial.

I would add that when drilling both blanks, ensure that the end of the blank facing out of the 4-jaw chuck is what was previously marked for aligning the grain. That way, even if there is any drifting of the drill bit when boring or there is misalignment of the blank itself, the entry holes into the blanks will match up and result in a good grain match.

pennview wrote:Mark, good show -- great tutorial.

I would add that when drilling both blanks, ensure that the end of the blank facing out of the 4-jaw chuck is what was previously marked for aligning the grain. That way, even if there is any drifting of the drill bit when boring or there is misalignment of the blank itself, the entry holes into the blanks will match up and result in a good grain match.

Good point Art. That is one thing I really like about this set up. If your machine (lathe) is properly aligned the bit has a tendency to find the dead center as the work piece is spinning.

Here are a couple of tips.






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The small face plate makes a great hand wheel when installed on the upper output shaft. This makes quick work for positioning any lathe work. Just make sure that it is nice and smooth with no nicks sharp edges etc.





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Install you SPT locking handles so that when you grab them you spin them up to loosen and down to tighten. Then all you have to remember is up for up (as to remove) and down for down (as to install) your SPT or tailstock.

Mark, I really love your tutorial threads!

mbcabinetmaker wrote: . . .

Install you SPT locking handles so that when you grab them you spin them up to loosen and down to tighten. Then all you have to remember is up for up (as to remove) and down for down (as to install) your SPT or tailstock.

That's backwards to me! Tis easier for me to apply more torque to the handle to tighten by rotating outside up. It also allows it to be used as a secure handle when moving the ss if a tube is inserted in the spt mount.

To each their own. Sorta like toilet paper rolls!:D

Thanks Heath I enjoy doing them. Didn't really think that JPG would openly admit that he was backwards though.

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Now that we have the blanks drilled it is time to prepare the tubes.






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Don't ask how I know this but it is better to remove the tubes from the kits and reseal the packet so that you do not discover later that you have lost a part and now have a useless $10.00 pin kit on you hands.







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To prepare the tubes to accept glue better I chuck them one end at the time in a drill chuck lightly hand tightening








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and sand lightly with 80 grit paper.








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Now up to this point can anyone argue that the Mark V is not the best pen lathe ever.

I've always just ever held these in my hand. I never though of putting them in the drill chuck. The tendinitis (Potentially arthritis) in my elbow thanks you very much.

It appears someone has a separate chuck for use on the quill different from the one he uses on the tailstock!:D

That to keep them from working 'backwards'?:rolleyes:

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I use Gorilla glue to glue the tubes into the blanks.






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I spread a bead onto some scrap wood.






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Gorilla glue needs moisture to work so I squirt some water into the holes in the blanks and set them aside.






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Then one by one I roll the tubes in the glue and insert them into the blanks.






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This will be a mess in a few hours. I like to glue them up at the end of the day and allow them to dry over night.