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Posted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 4:20 pm
by JPG
ddvann79 wrote:Milling machine? How about a hack saw and a tap and die set?
I was 'thinking' it would be nice if it looked 'pretty'!:D That would require a slight curve to match the path of motion when raised/lowered!:rolleyes: I also think I would beef up the web where the lock down screw is located. If I do actually cut a pair, a hacksaw is probably the tool available(maybe a sabre saw?).
P.S. Why would I need a 'die'? ;>}}
Posted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 4:24 pm
by dusty
JPG40504 wrote:Foul!!!! No fair!!!! That was the week I spent in ICU sitting with SHMBO!
I don't understand. SHMBO = ?
Posted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 4:28 pm
by MikeG
SHMBO = She Who Must Be Obeyed
Posted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 4:31 pm
by JPG
dusty wrote:I don't understand. SHMBO = ?
i.e. Our better halves!;) or LOML!:)
Posted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 4:34 pm
by dusty
[quote="JPG40504"]i.e. Our better halves!]
Oh, you mean SWMBO.
Posted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 4:39 pm
by damagi
SDSSmith wrote:I thought the following shows what Shopsmith did:[ATTACH]12353[/ATTACH]I have been tempted to modify a couple of arms but just have not gotten around to it.
Heh, thats my photo
Yes, that is what shopsmith did. The base arm casting should be easy to modify to match their style...I even proposed this in another thread. However, if you are going with JPG's suggestion then you could get away with a longer hinge pin I think. The reason why shopsmith's design works well is because gravity doesn't come into play when you disengage the hinge pin (because of the set screw), whereas JPG's suggestion would need some sort of wedge or other device to support the weight while thie pin was pulled.
Posted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 4:39 pm
by JPG
dusty wrote:Oh, you mean SWMBO:rolleyes:
See! I am human after all! Cannot blame it on the keyboard, too far apart!:p
Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2011 11:32 am
by horologist
[quote="JPG40504"]
Now who do I know that has a milling machine?]
I do... only two problems...
1. There are some electrical issues to sort out, a temporary problem (Dad is convinced I'm nuts for buying this thing).
2. It is way too small for this task. You need someone with a knee mill for this one. One of these days I will likely end up with a Bridgeport or a small Rockwell but I need a larger shop first.
Troy
Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2011 12:59 pm
by JPG
horologist wrote:I do... only two problems...
1. There are some electrical issues to sort out, a temporary problem (Dad is convinced I'm nuts for buying this thing).
2. It is way too small for this task. You need someone with a knee mill for this one. One of these days I will likely end up with a Bridgeport or a small Rockwell but I need a larger shop first.
Troy
Ever considered moving out of the 'laundry' room?:D
I think a hacksaw will be the tool of choice!;) Lo budget approach!
Double tilt phase 2
Posted: Sat Apr 02, 2011 4:46 pm
by JPG
Made a few 'alterations' to an end casting.
[ATTACH]12494[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]12495[/ATTACH]
Knob is a damaged 10E with new screw inserted.
[ATTACH]12496[/ATTACH]
Hinge pin drilled/tapped 1/4-20, ftat washer and screw(5/32) hex.
[ATTACH]12497[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]12498[/ATTACH]
The casting wall is thin, I will add a tapped plate to beef it up.
Less said about the 'extra' hole the better!:rolleyes: It will secure the beef plate!:D