Shopsmith Forums

Thanks for the input, The other serial number makes it a 1988 I believe, whats odd is, it appears to be a 520 now with the table upgardes ect, but the guy I bought it from is the original owner and all the SPT's were still in their boxes with the guys name on all the shipping tags. I'm not sure if he purchased a new 510 in 1988, and then upgraded later to the 520. (there is no extra parts of a conversion and I don't think they sold the 520 in 1988). But I'm failey new in the SS world.

I really enjoy my Woodcraft store. Sadly it is almost a full hours drive to the Ventura store from my house, so I limit my visits to "as needed" or for an occasional class. All of the employees at this store are experienced craftsmen, and they helpfully call their compadre over when a technical question requires an experienced reply.
I don't completely understand their business model, as even though I like the local store, I can purchase everything from their on-line store, and often get free shipping during specials. I just hope they don't compete with their franchises to the extent that the businesses can't compete.
Anyway, regarding their wood. Both on-line and in store wood is excellent. Uniform, full grain patterns, smooth 4 sides. For small projects it is wonderful to be able to purchase small quantities in usable sizes. I think it would be a very expensive place to pick up furniture size stock.
They offer an in store sharpening service, and I recently had a skew that I thought I ruined reconditioned (flattened and sharpened) at the store.
The evening classes are great, informative and non-commercial.
As for my blades, I order them from SS. Guess I just trust their judgment to sell a quality product to pair with their machine.

Have done some online touring of the store, but today without requesting it, recieved a catalogue from Woodcraft. The nearest one I know to the Gulf Coast is just south of Birmingham, AL. It would be an all day drive round trip and with the price of gasoline, not worth the drive. But, the book is something that you need a towel with to keep it dry from the drool. LOL If you wish one, I'm sure they'll send you one for free.

I will be supporting them with my wallet at every opportunity, just as I do SS.

I have a store located in Franklin, TN about one hour drive north of me. I have been there in the past so often that they know me on a first name basis. I learned how to turn there taking most of their turning classes many years ago and back in the days when I was working all kinds of overtime and had a bunch of spending money, I took many of their other classes including building 2 Windsor chairs. All the classes were first class and the folks at this store are mostly all woodworkers. The products were a little on the high end but when they had a sale, that was my time to purchase. The wood was excellent however like what was already said, for a big project I would go to a wood supplier and plane it myself if it was within the capability of my planner.

bettyt44720 wrote:hmmm! as i recall the 5/8" saw blade arbor is the "beefy" one with the "skinny" round nut that has two flats for clearing the saw table trunion. I believe the 5/8" keyed arbors are for dado blades, grinding wheels and/or buffing wheels?

Tis an old 'debate' you have resurrected!:) i.e. Why the keyed washer - 'saw' arbor vs 'utility' arbor.

As you correctly stated the boat anchor arbor with the "skinny" round nut with two flats is a 5/8" saw arbor and the skinny nut allows more clearance to the trunion. It also has a very short shank and is simply too short to be used for anything 'thicker' than a saw blade.

However historically there have been 5/8"(and 1/2") 'saw' arbors and 5/8" 'universal' arbors.

Unfortunately(for me), when I acquired a 5/8" arbor for a saw blade(long long long ago), Monkey Ward only had the 'universal' arbor in stock so my mind acquired the vision of a 'keyed' saw blade arbor.

Now it has been quoted that SS has in the past been very adamant about ONLY using the 'saw' arbors for saw blades. That is accurate - they were!

Also the reason for the keyed shank/washer on the 'universal' arbor was that it could be used on the back side shaft and the keyway/washer prevents the nut from being loosened by the torque under load.

As for the skinny nut, the older(M5...MV(500?)) have sufficient clearance to the trunion as long as very little of the threaded shank extends beyond the nut. I cannot attest to any possible guard interference since my Goldie has never had one.

So I indeed slipped up by referring to a keyed 'saw' blade arbor(but truth be known a keyed 'universal' arbor works quite well as a saw blade arbor on a guardless M5 as long as it doesn't stick out too far).


BTW: You Power Pro users - Does the Power Pro ramp speed down when shut off to prevent sudden braking 'action'?

my local woodcraft is ok on the prices, but looking around a little i found a great local lumber supply place, they have boards and turning blanks, and on average are around 1/2 woodcrafts prices.

you might check around a bit and see if you can find something similare

wildcard wrote:my local woodcraft is ok on the prices, but looking around a little i found a great local lumber supply place, they have boards and turning blanks, and on average are around 1/2 woodcrafts prices.

you might check around a bit and see if you can find something similare

Address in Knoxville????

JPG40504 wrote:...BTW: You Power Pro users - Does the Power Pro ramp speed down when shut off to prevent sudden braking 'action'?

Don't quite understand "ramp down" but the PowerPro slows down fairly quickly. Takes a few seconds from sawing speed.

P.S. CORRECTION - From saw speed to stop takes about 8 to 10 seconds. When the power is off it just coasts to a stop. When the power is off (before starting) the PP headstock is very easily rotated by hand. easier than the old headstock. I guess the only thing holding it back is the two Poly-v-belts.

charlese wrote:Don't quite understand "ramp down" but the PowerPro slows down fairly quickly. Takes a few seconds from sawing speed.

Ramp down = 1)Doesn't 'coast down'(slight braking action) 2) Doesn't stop abruptly(hard braking action)

I imagine a few seconds would be 'ramped down'(may be controlled or merely magnetic drag).

It would be interesting to know if the time required to reach a full stop varies between no load and with a steel sanding disk attached.

kalynzoo wrote:I really enjoy my Woodcraft store. Sadly it is almost a full hours drive to the Ventura store from my house, so I limit my visits to "as needed" or for an occasional class. All of the employees at this store are experienced craftsmen, and they helpfully call their compadre over when a technical question requires an experienced reply.
I don't completely understand their business model, as even though I like the local store, I can purchase everything from their on-line store, and often get free shipping during specials. I just hope they don't compete with their franchises to the extent that the businesses can't compete.
Anyway, regarding their wood. Both on-line and in store wood is excellent. Uniform, full grain patterns, smooth 4 sides. For small projects it is wonderful to be able to purchase small quantities in usable sizes. I think it would be a very expensive place to pick up furniture size stock.
They offer an in store sharpening service, and I recently had a skew that I thought I ruined reconditioned (flattened and sharpened) at the store.
The evening classes are great, informative and non-commercial.
As for my blades, I order them from SS. Guess I just trust their judgment to sell a quality product to pair with their machine.

If you want to buy from Woodcraft mail order but also support your local store. Call the store to place the order. They make the sale and you get it in the mail.