Shopsmith Forums

gat_76 wrote:
im thinking tap and die?


thanks,
Jesse

A screw extractor would work better. Available at most hardware and big box stores.


http://www.google.com/products/catalog? ... EEQ8wIwAg#

JPG40504 wrote:Are you sure they are 'mangled'? Is all the 'putty' out? Make sure you are down to actual screw metal in all corners. A 'new' allen wrench may work better.

The presence of the 'putty' usually means it has not previously been removed, but if it was 're built' . . .

I discourage drilling/taping etc. since that makes the part 'modified'. That won't get the screw out anyway. An 'easyout' MAY work.

Pix would be helpful!

they were mangled, for suer. i picked the putty clean out. then i got a brand new allen wrench, tapped it down with my hammer for good connection (bc i saw that the screw was in bad shape) then turned... nothing but a painful indention in my palm from the wrench.

then i grabbed it with a pair of pliars for leverage, stopping to double check direction, lefty loosy. it took a lot of force, but now i have a round hole in my set screw. the screw on the extension lever twisted my allen wrench into a spiral!!!!

after all that, i KNOW my drill is not that powerfull.

thank you and cabinet maker for the alternative to drilling, im going to get a set and try them.... then i will worry about getting the drive shaft out.

pics

got one, the other just disintegrate under the screw extractor. I have no choice but to drill it out.

i did. better to have a modified shopsmith than a broken one. i got it totally dissasimbled. i will figure out what needs replacing, order parts, then start cleaning.


thanks again guys, that tool will be in my shop FOR EVER!

I've had the same thing happen. When drilling out the set screw, start with a bit smaller than the screw threads. With a little luck, you'll get through the set screw without dinging the threads and you won't have to enlarge the hole.

When I did this, I got lucky and the set screw was picked out in pieces without thread damage.

Good luck.

dusty wrote:I've had the same thing happen. When drilling out the set screw, start with a bit smaller than the screw threads. With a little luck, you'll get through the set screw without dinging the threads and you won't have to enlarge the hole.

When I did this, I got lucky and the set screw was picked out in pieces without thread damage.

Good luck.

that may be worth the work apposed to my idea: i have an 1/8 hole going all the way though. since it just holds PART of the quill extension assembly on, i could just force another screw in there to make its own threads, pull it out, put anti seize on it, and put it back in. it should do the job.

but it would not hurt to try and save it the way you suggest. thanks btw for that suggestion.

gat_76 wrote:that may be worth the work apposed to my idea: i have an 1/8 hole going all the way though. since it just holds PART of the quill extension assembly on, i could just force another screw in there to make its own threads, pull it out, put anti seize on it, and put it back in. it should do the job.

but it would not hurt to try and save it the way you suggest. thanks btw for that suggestion.

IMHO - not good! I know of no good way to 'force another screw in there to make its own threads'.

You really need to get all the old screw out without damaging the casting threads. A new set screw is required. Keep in mind the set screw in the headstock is a half dog that keeps the quill from rotating. It needs to be 'right!!! If the casting threads are damaged, chase them with a 5/16-18 tap.

The fewer things altered from 'original' the better. Better not easier or quicker.

yeah, not the quill setscrew, but the one hitting the spring housing. i dont think it is as crucial since it just holds the spring housing from horizontal movement, and not much of that. seems to be very little torque on the spring housing when fully assembled. i say this because (as shown in the pic in the link) the screw was hitting flat metal. you can see the scratch mark from when i pulled out the assembly.




with all that being said, i do plan to keep it original. i was on the fence, but i made up my mind. thanks to you guys. i had already looked a little for the thread measurements, so i am very glad you just gave them to me

gat_76 wrote:yeah, not the quill setscrew, but the one hitting the spring housing. i dont think it is as crucial since it just holds the spring housing from horizontal movement, and not much of that. seems to be very little torque on the spring housing when fully assembled. i say this because (as shown in the pic in the link) the screw was hitting flat metal. you can see the scratch mark from when i pulled out the assembly.

http://s26.photobucket.com/albums/c115/gat_76/?action=view&current=2dfb7640.jpg&newest=1


with all that being said, i do plan to keep it original. i was on the fence, but i made up my mind. thanks to you guys. i had already looked a little for the thread measurements, so i am very glad you just gave them to me

Atta boy!!!!!!!!!:)

I had an unfortunate accident while removing the main poly V drive on my third Mark V rebuild and broke the main casting. Not a good thing to have happen but i was able to purchase a used casting from a guy on Ebay that SDSSmith referred me to. Was a great save on his part and i got the Mark V all back together and running like a charm once again. So if you have no lck with the set screw all is not lost you can get another casting from SSmithparts on Ebay. He has Type B castings available for short money.