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Posted: Tue May 24, 2011 12:04 pm
by pennview
Fiatben, that's quite a nifty lumber storage rack, especially the fact that you have access from both sides. I should build a couple, as my lumber is stacked in a big pile and it would take forever to get at something on the bottom of my mess. One observation I would make is that running that one full length 2x4 and the two shorter ones under the cross pieces, instead of above them, would add to the strength/load carrying capacity of the rack.

Posted: Tue May 24, 2011 12:57 pm
by terrydowning
Nicely done, we should all have such problems and solutions.

Posted: Tue May 24, 2011 1:02 pm
by JPG
terrydowning wrote:Nicely done, we should all have such problems and solutions.
I don't suppose you have thought that the 'rack' cost more than the stuff stored on it! Oh that we should ALL have 'that' problem!:rolleyes:

Nice!

Put the stringer wherever you like! I am sure 'assembly' was easier with it on top!;)

Hmmm

Posted: Tue May 24, 2011 2:03 pm
by fiatben
pennview wrote:Fiatben, that's quite a nifty lumber storage rack, especially the fact that you have access from both sides. I should build a couple, as my lumber is stacked in a big pile and it would take forever to get at something on the bottom of my mess. One observation I would make is that running that one full length 2x4 and the two shorter ones under the cross pieces, instead of above them, would add to the strength/load carrying capacity of the rack.
Never even crossed my mind. Good idea, although I suspect the doubled 2x4s with the four 3" screws and glue on each side will hold more than I can put on there. I'm not sure I would try to put a full-length 2x4 in the next one. Maybe it was just the humidity from all the rain, but I had to plane a bit off one end to get the 4th "tree" onto it. Much easier to fit shorter ones between two uprights and put them where I wanted. Of course, I'm gonna watch it for racking, etc. and can alway put some angle bracing in, or more cross members. I've even wondered if I couldn't block in on the lowest racks and put this thing on wheels, but that's a kinda scary thought.

I designed it to be basically one board wide on both sides specifically so I could get to any piece of wood without too much trouble. It now takes up about half of what used to be the total area dedicated to WW before I moved a car out of the barn.

End view:
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Oh yeah,

Posted: Tue May 24, 2011 2:05 pm
by fiatben
JPG40504 wrote:I don't suppose you have thought that the 'rack' cost more than the stuff stored on it! Oh that we should ALL have 'that' problem!:rolleyes:
Yeah, I know, but then I had to remind myself how much it was worth rather than what it costs.

Next project: tuning up an old Delta 12" planer

Posted: Tue May 24, 2011 3:15 pm
by pennview
If you turned the rack upside down during assembly, it would be just as easy to assemble and it would be stronger to boot.

Posted: Tue May 24, 2011 3:50 pm
by robinson46176
I often have need for a treated 4x4 post but most treated 4x4's will warp like mad. I now just use two treated 2x4's laminated together for a 4x4. Basically will not warp. I usually just spike them together with some construction adhesive between them. If I need a heavier post I use three 2x4's or some other combination. Somewhere I have charts sent to me by an architectural engineer which shows just how much stronger a "2 by" lamination is over a solid post of equal cross-section. At the time I was wondering about comparative strength between a 6x6 solid post and a lamination of four common 2x6's. I was really surprised at the strength rating of the lamination.

I have seen landscape timbers used for fence post that warped so bad you could hardly tell which way there were going... :rolleyes: and that was before they were as spindly as many I am seeing now (really scrawny).
I have some "treated" landscape timbers that rotted badly in a years time. They said that they were "treated". They did not say with what of if done properly... :D

Posted: Tue May 24, 2011 4:04 pm
by robinson46176
fiatben wrote:Yeah, I know, but then I had to remind myself how much it was worth rather than what it costs.

Next project: tuning up an old Delta 12" planer


You also get to pro-rate the rack cost over it useful life span which should be pretty much forever... :)


You speak of the high cost of black pipe. I keep watching for and buying those pipe clamps (like Pony) at yard sales. I have a good batch of them that are just the parts but no pipe, some still in the original box. A few years ago the local gas company "really" pi$$ed me off and I ordered them to remove their meter. I changed the house over from gas and as soon as I get it removed I will have hundreds of feet of rust-free black pipe to make up those clamps. What was just common old black pipe years ago is now a frightening experience to buy now. :eek:


.

Well....

Posted: Tue May 24, 2011 9:17 pm
by fiatben
pennview wrote:If you turned the rack upside down during assembly, it would be just as easy to assemble and it would be stronger to boot.
Interesting idea, but this thing is massive in both size and weight. To get an idea, grab 20 2x4s and try to flip them end for end. Each of the four uprights were a handful to maneuver in the shop without taking out lights or hurting myself. I can't imagine flipping the entire thing over. It's not that big of a shop, and I usually don't have help. But, still, interesting thought....

Now that I'm thinking about it. I could do a very scaled down version for all those smaller scraps, couldn't I? Naw, I'm leaning toward some really big plywood boxes with lawn mower wheels on the bottom.

Posted: Tue May 24, 2011 10:32 pm
by JPG
'Next' time, run that stringer diagonally forming a 'v' with the point at the center bottom. That would fix the racking concern. I do not think the 2x4 would add much extra support to the arms. A shoulder on the vertical pieces would be more effective.