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Posted: Tue May 10, 2011 7:02 pm
by ldh
These from McMaster-Carr (94564A310) work quite well also.
ldh

Posted: Tue May 10, 2011 10:13 pm
by wannabewoodworker
dusty wrote:Why not just get nylon screws to replace the originals when they wear out? Am I missing something?
Dusty,
I mentioned above that i bought some nylon screws at Lowes that only need to have the heads cut off and a small slot cut into them to install. I guess nobody read my post??? They cost me I think >$2.00 two to a pack.

Posted: Tue May 10, 2011 11:51 pm
by JPG
wannabewoodworker wrote:Dusty,
I mentioned above that i bought some nylon screws at Lowes that only need to have the heads cut off and a small slot cut into them to install. I guess nobody read my post??? They cost me I think >$2.00 two to a pack.

I guess I be 'nobody' since I did read your post.:D

IMHO, using off the shelf standard parts is preferable to modified off the shelf parts. Also the McMaster Carr screws were just over $10 for 50! Now that leaves enough for trading stock!;)

The newer version is much more difficult to obtain. At $13+ EACH an alternative is sought!!! Hence the faucet washer/screw/shim suggestion.


P.S. the slots belong in the TOP end of the screws!

Posted: Wed May 11, 2011 7:59 am
by wannabewoodworker
[quote="JPG40504"]I guess I be 'nobody' since I did read your post.:D

IMHO, using off the shelf standard parts is preferable to modified off the shelf parts. Also the McMaster Carr screws were just over $10 for 50! Now that leaves enough for trading stock!]

Sorry JPG didn't mean you as I think you read everything......:D I did just check out the McMaster screws and you are right those are the money part for sure. I have purchased from them in the past and it is painless and inexpensive. Those would definitely be the way to go.

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Posted: Wed May 11, 2011 8:02 am
by wannabewoodworker
I think these would be even better as they are slightly longer and give you more to wear down.

McMaster number #94564A315

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Posted: Wed May 11, 2011 10:53 am
by ryanbp01
I didn't realize nylon was used. All of my set screws are metal.

BPR

Posted: Wed May 11, 2011 11:04 am
by SDSSmith
wannabewoodworker wrote:I think these would be even better as they are slightly longer and give you more to wear down.

McMaster number #94564A315

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I believe this one (1" long) would block the holes for the miter gauge stop rod. No big deal if you don't have or plan to use one.

Posted: Wed May 11, 2011 12:32 pm
by ldh
ryanbp01 wrote:I didn't realize nylon was used. All of my set screws are metal.

BPR
I should have given a bit more information in my post from yesterday regarding the SS Miter Gage slides. The McMaster-Carr #94564A310 nylon at 3/4" set screws work fine for the older miter gage. The 1" 94564A315 is a bit long and will interfere with the 1/4" stop rod use. The McMaster-Carr #91970A579 1/2" nylon bolt works well with the newer gages. You will need to cut a slot in the head of the bolt for adjustment. I have repaired several of the gages and the 6/6 nylon seems to hold up well and it is inexpensive.

ldh

Posted: Wed May 11, 2011 2:02 pm
by JPG
SDSSmith wrote:I believe this one (1" long) would block the holes for the miter gauge stop rod. No big deal if you don't have or plan to use one.

Indeed it would! 3/4" is perfect!(long enough to wear a long time, short enough to clear the stop rod holes.


FWIW My almost half century old Goldie still has the original screws. Might be 1/16" shorter!

http://www.mcmaster.com/#91970a579/=c9e6ra <<<<<<< newer style!!!!!!!!!!! send IDH a finder's fee!!!!!

Posted: Wed May 11, 2011 3:03 pm
by wdphillips
The shipping is what kills me but... given all of the information provide on this thread we do have a Fastenal in our small town. Here is the Fastenal part that I am having them order in for me. $.33 per and I do not have to pay shipping!

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/de ... 927&ucst=t