Overarm Router Attachment Jigs

[james.miller]

I use a PC 980 series motor and it works after I modified the dust deflector to fit around the spindle lock.

[charlese]

Whoops! I was planning on using my Porter Cable router. Hmmm.....
Paul

Not to be concerned Paul! I also use a PC 890. Only a little sanding with the smaller sanding drum, had the deflector fitting in no time.

Better than that - Did you notice that Nick didn't use the deflector at all in his Overhead router series? I've always wondered about the real value of the deflector. There is no deflector in other router operations! Also, of note is the fact that the fan blades in the router force air out of the collet end of the router - It doesn't suck in!

Also noticed Nick did not use the dust collection part of the OPR. In my limited use of the OPR, The dust collection plastic attachment and the related wing nuts really gets in the way! It is a lot easier to work without it.

If dust collection is a big concern, one could use the attachment.

[charlese]

This afternoon, finally got back in the shop for a while. I drilled the 1" holes & put the underside 1" grooves (3/8" deep) into the OPR table. I used the overhead router to do this operation - sliding the OPR table across the SS worktable and using the Mark V fence. This worked pretty good, as both tables have a good coating of wax. I used a 3/4" straight cutting bit to make the grooves.

I found the OPR table to be 18 1/2"x28" rather than 18"x28" as the blackboard said. The problem here was where to drill the 1" holes. I chose to use the 15" measurement between hole centers, so drilled them 1 3/4" from the ends rather than 1 1/2" (as shown on the blackboard detail. Don't really think it would matter much if the holes were 1/2" further apart. In fact, the extra 1/2" may work out to be better.

I found a piece of melamine coated scrap that is not quite as large as the sliding table plan, but is large enough to attach the "underneath runners" and still have some board outside of the runners. So I'll be using that piece.

BTW When I attached the router to the overhead mechanism, the dust shield was in place. I left it there and it worked fine.

Gotta finish the 3/8" thru slots and the sliding table tomorrow, as I have some turning blanks coming to make salt and pepper grinder gifts for our hosts from MT. Looks like I'm avoiding the shutters! Somehow I think I am!

[paul heller]

Sounds great, Chuck! I'll follow your tips to make the slots once I receive mine.

Let us know how you like the new table setup.

Paul

[charlese]

The OPR table is MDF on the inside. MDF is a good material, but when you start moving carriage bolts around and tightening them, the shoulders of the bolts and heads will wear this material fairly soon.

Today, I discovered a fix that will make for much better/firmer slots. Unmentioned yesterday, I made an error that grew into a benefit. I accidentally routed the first 1" groove about 3/16" too deep. This probably wouldn't have been a problem, as the table is a full inch thick. But I decided to fix it. So I glued an oak strip into the slot last night and re-routed it today. The results of this fix are tremendous! I now have a 1" slot with an oak bottom rather than MDF. The edges of the 3/8" thru slot are a lot cleaner than the other slot, that is all MDF, and the base for the bolt head is stronger.

A Tip for anyone that hasn't yet milled the grooves in the OPR table, is to rout the 1" groove too deep and then fill it with a hardwood. You probably have some cutoff strips stored in your shop anyway.

A Tip for anyone who already has made the slots, is to wait until wear occurs - then re-rout it and insert hardwood.

BTW I routed the 3/8" thru slots with a 1/4" (up cut) spiral bit from the bottom side. That worked wonderfully. The top looks good.

[charlese]

I made a BIG mistake when I modified the Overhead Router table and also on the sled. Wanted to post it so others won't fall into this trap.

Don't drill 1" holes on both sides of the slots/counter bores. I really don't think this would hurt anything in the OPR table itself, but the 1" holes on the slotted side of the sliding table are BAD! You need the 3/8" slots to run out to at least 1 1/2" close to that edge. The reason is - sometimes you will need to affix the fence to the sliding table with carriage bolts. This can't be done if there is a 1" hole there.

So -after finishing the modifications (I thought) complete with 1" holes on both ends of the slots, I tried to affix the fence in the upright posision at the edge of the sliding table. This, of course, was a "no-workie" because of the 1" holes. I decided to re-do the project.

Not being one to throw anything away I took my own advice (above) and re-routed the counter bores on the sliding table and inserted 1" oak boards. While I was at it - also did the same for the OPR table. The oak is glued and clamped. Now that the counter bores are filed, tomorrow afternoon will be the re-routing of the oak fillers.

Really wanted to save the sliding table, because it came from the only scrap piece of melamine coated hardboard of adequate size, I had left. Besides the runners fit perfectly and I didn't want to do that part again.

Some might be interested that this piece of melamine/hardboard was only 28 3/4" wide. Although the plan calls for 32" I figured it I rabbeted each side of the melamine 3/8" and also 3/8" rabbeted a 1 3/4" wide piece of 3/4 oak - they would fit together nicely giving 28" between the insides of the oak. Did this and with a little sanding, - - perfect fit! Reinforced the rails with three 8x 1/14" FHWS in the sides.

I'll post a couple of photos, if anyone is interested.

[dusty]

We're always interested in photos, Hope this all works out well for you.

[charlese]

Boy! I made a mess today. Ended up O.K. but a little ugly when viewed from below. The finally finished OPR table still looks good from above. The new sliding table will function for a long time, I hope! I was almost finished, and moving the two tables around, when I dropped the sliding table. (Tired fingers, I think) The sliding table fell in the vertical position and collided with the edge of the workbench right on inside of the slide cleat. This was a real test for my attachment of the slide's cleat. The glue line held and so did the screw. The particle board broke apart on that corner of the table, causing the cleat to bend outward. A little glue and replacing the screw, hopefully will work. There was also a break in the melamine between the slot and the edge of the table. The crack was near the screw at that end. This means the 3/4" partical board was also cracked. The last of the photos shows that corner under clamps. I had to clamp it (as shown) then slide the OPR table through to see if the clamps were too tight. After adjusting the clamps - there it sits until tomorrow.

Good thing I finished. (I hope) Tomorrow I have to go into lathe mode. Any OPR work will have to wait.(as will the shutters)

Should add: The first counter bores were 1" wide, as shown in plans. After re-routing the counter bores to 5/8" deep I added the 1"x 3/4" plugs to the counter bores, I decided I would like to have hardwood on the sides of the counter bores as well as the top. So made the last counter bores 7/8" wide. This is plenty of room for the heads of 3/8" carriage bolts. I used the Overhead router to do all of this routing. Used the SS main table and the 510 rip fence. Also used two floating tables and adjustable legs. Put plywood under the work pieces when routing thru slots/holes. Used a 5/8" straight bit for the counterbores and a 1/4" up-cut spiral bit for the slots. I really like the way the hardwood works with the bolts. There is real smooth sliding and firm holding.

Once again: What ever you do - don't drill 1" holes on the slotted side of the sliding table!!