SS bug strikes a 3rd time

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Wed Jun 29, 2011 1:15 am

fiatben wrote:I completely overlooked the fact that early models had 6 digits, while later ones (like this one) had only 5. That clears up a lot of things. I even saw the plastic part on the drive which should have registered as a poly-v, but didn't.

They made later models with an even bigger access hole??? I can almost drive thru this one! but then my car isn't all that big.

If you can easily run your hand through that hole and do something with your hand inside, then your hands are smaller than mine!:( Those cute fangs on the sides really feel good going in and out.

What 'plastic' piece on the poly-v drive????? Quill shaft coupler?

jcraigie · Post by **jcraigie** » Wed Jun 29, 2011 3:05 am

On the early greenies like Ben and I have there is no plastic quill shaft coupler the quill shaft slides right into the Gilmer drive sleeve assembly.

fiatben · Post by **fiatben** » Wed Jun 29, 2011 3:16 pm

This morning I got the tubes out of the ends. The only reason I know there is hope for these is because I've seen what you guys have accomplished.
[ATTACH]13513[/ATTACH]

Taking a gear puller, I gently removed the floating sheave. I'd like to pull the motor sheave and clean everything. Is this complicated?
[ATTACH]13515[/ATTACH]

The biggest problem I've seen yet is that the idler/control sheave assembly is frozen. Someone want to chirp in with an easy solution (beyond buying new ones, I mean)?
[ATTACH]13514[/ATTACH]

The quadrant is soaking in Evaporust. We'll see what it looks like in the morning.

JPG, I really like your tube idea. I think I even have the PVC laying around. Guess I'll head to HF for a gallon of Evapo.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Wed Jun 29, 2011 4:27 pm

Those tubes look better than Mickyd's 10ER did - he like to never got the headstock off.

The fan sheave is held on by a set screw accessable through the exhaust vent opening - it will be very tight. You already have the hardest part done(spring removal). Know how to get it back on???:rolleyes:

Soak in penetrating oil(or K1!:D)for a long time. Some folks like pb-blaster. Load up that hole in the snout. Push in, then out then in . . .

Just what are you removing from the quadrant by soaking in evaporust? Spring and tension pins???? The rest is aluminum.

Pvc sizes are flexible. What I mentioned requires the least amount of $20/gallon stuff($16 at HF with 20% off discount!). You may need ro refresh the evaporust a little - it does get depleted and not work as fast.

fiatben · Post by **fiatben** » Thu Jun 30, 2011 8:43 am

JPG40504 wrote: You already have the hardest part done(spring removal). Know how to get it back on???:rolleyes:

Soak in penetrating oil(or K1!:D)for a long time. Some folks like pb-blaster. Load up that hole in the snout. Push in, then out then in . . .

re: spring - not really, was it covered in the Sawdust Session 24 segment?

re: sheaves - soaking I understood, the "snout" and "push in, then out", not so much so. Can you enlighten me further?

Thanks

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Thu Jun 30, 2011 1:58 pm

[ATTACH]13520[/ATTACH]

Capisce?

The hole is over the key/keyway so penetrant will find a way in!

fiatben · Post by **fiatben** » Thu Jun 30, 2011 9:17 pm

Well, pushing in is not so bad; clamps and light taps with a hammer, but how the heck do I pull it back apart until it frees up?

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Thu Jun 30, 2011 10:36 pm

[quote="fiatben"]Well, pushing in is not so bad]
Hardwood wedges around/between the sheaves - even pressure(not cocked).

A little bit at a time. Idea is to get is moving slightly and gradually increase length of travel. Wooden mallet is preferable to a steel hammer.

If you have gotten it to move 'in' then it is not frozen, just stubborn!

fiatben · Post by **fiatben** » Sat Jul 02, 2011 3:07 pm

Got the sheaves apart. Can put them back together but they stick when fully closed. I suspect it's the crud on the shaft in there. Looks like I need to pull the idler sheave (109), and I see a little spring clip (p/n 106 or 107) in there. If I pull that clip, then the sheave should come off? Or is there more to it than that? Or does it even fully close up during normal operations?

The quadrant cleaned up pretty nice. Even the teeth do not show much wear. If I pull the Retaining Ring, Washer and Spring Washer (90-92 on diagram), shouldn't the Worm Control Shaft slide out? I know it is inside a pressed on brass bushing, but is something else holding it?

Making progress, slowly but surely. Gave up for the day when the barn hit 100-F at noon!

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sat Jul 02, 2011 5:11 pm

fiatben wrote:Got the sheaves apart. Can put them back together but they stick when fully closed. I suspect it's the crud on the shaft in there. Looks like I need to pull the idler sheave (109), and I see a little spring clip (p/n 106 or 107) in there. If I pull that clip, then the sheave should come off? Or is there more to it than that? Or does it even fully close up during normal operations?

The quadrant cleaned up pretty nice. Even the teeth do not show much wear. If I pull the Retaining Ring, Washer and Spring Washer (90-92 on diagram), shouldn't the Worm Control Shaft slide out? I know it is inside a pressed on brass bushing, but is something else holding it?

Making progress, slowly but surely. Gave up for the day when the barn hit 100-F at noon!

Removing the clip should make it possible to remove the sheave. The rust/crud on the shaft will undoubtedly make that a bit more difficult than it should be.

Both sheaves can be removed from the shaft.

There is a long key involved also. The key is NOT straight. It has a slight bend toward one end.

Shopsmith Forums

SS bug strikes a 3rd time

Tubes out, sheave problems

Not so much so

NOw I see

TaDa!