I will be happy to send you or anyone needing the bolt, washers and nut along with instructions (no charge). Just Email (annbill.mayo@comcast.net) me with your address. Thanks.forrestb wrote:Since I planned on replacing the control assembly anyway, I thought to try Bill's method with a bolt holding the pork chop on to the control. My local ACE and Home Depot did not have any 10-32 x 2 1/2 bolts that would show a smooth surface to the pork chop (instead of screw threads). Okay, I drilled both parts out to fit a 1/4 bolt that did provide the smooth surface.
That, and straightening the control arm, brought the screw back to the centerline of the pork chop and voila! I have full range speed control again. I did have to remove some of the 'crushed' portions of the pork chop teeth, so this is not a permanent fix.
I will try more hardware dealers next week (while waiting replacement parts) for a proper sized bolt as Bill used.
THANKS again to Chris and Bill!!!
Forrest
Pork Chop worn 'funny'
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Quadrant Replacement Bolt, Washer and Nut
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
I didn't see abnormal wear in Forrest's pork chop. Yes, it is a little to one side and an adjustment will likely cause wear to be more centered, but wear will happen.
Like JPG said, "Well lubricated sheaves are the best prevention...", but even with that wear will happen! The belt tension in the motor sheaves will see to that!
Lubrication of sheaves should be almost a religion at 10 hour intervals of operation. If you let the machine set for a while, lubrication is a good idea before starting up.
Like JPG said, "Well lubricated sheaves are the best prevention...", but even with that wear will happen! The belt tension in the motor sheaves will see to that!
Lubrication of sheaves should be almost a religion at 10 hour intervals of operation. If you let the machine set for a while, lubrication is a good idea before starting up.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
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JPG
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Quadrant Wear
Gotta disagree re 'a little to one side' as being normal. Typical, yes, but not 'normal'.
Typical in as much as the mechanism is prone to becoming misaligned by a combination of aggressively adjusting to slower speeds and sluggish sheaves.
Notice the wear is on the side of the teeth being pushed by the wormgear when 'slowing down'.
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Typical in as much as the mechanism is prone to becoming misaligned by a combination of aggressively adjusting to slower speeds and sluggish sheaves.
Notice the wear is on the side of the teeth being pushed by the wormgear when 'slowing down'.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
JPG40504 wrote:Gotta disagree re 'a little to one side' as being normal. Typical, yes, but not 'normal'.
Typical in as much as the mechanism is prone to becoming misaligned by a combination of aggressively adjusting to slower speeds and sluggish sheaves.
Notice the wear is on the side of the teeth being pushed by the wormgear when 'slowing down.
O.K.! I'll accept that!:) Do not wish to discuss the difference between "typical" and "normal" - - However, I forgot to mention that the lubrication of sheaves every 10 operating hours should include the motor sheave assembly as well as the control sheave assembly. A real good way to get oil where it needs to be is to do the lube while the machine is in drill press position.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
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JPG
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Normal wear occurs when proper lubrication and reasonable turning force on the speed dial are observed.
Typical wear occurs when the above two conditions are NOT met!
Proper lubrication absolutely includes the motor (floating) sheave.
I agree nuf said!
Typical wear occurs when the above two conditions are NOT met!
Proper lubrication absolutely includes the motor (floating) sheave.
I agree nuf said!
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Okay, not to re-open an old thread, but I gotta ask, what is the best lubricant to use on the speed control dial planetary and the pork chop gear?
I cleaned off a lot of old dried grease but would rather hear what you learned fellows use.
I cleaned off a lot of old dried grease but would rather hear what you learned fellows use.
www.wirewerkes.com
Hiding in a Joshua Tree.
Hiding in a Joshua Tree.
On the pork chop gear I'm using wax from a toilet bowl ring and on the speed control it's suggested to use a silicone spray. And no I DO KNOT mean use WD40.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
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JPG
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- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
I am partial to graphite, but it be messy!:rolleyes: Powdered variety!
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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jcraigie
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- Location: Fowlerville, Michigan
Ever use spray graphite? like slip plate - http://www.slipplate.com/index.php?main ... ducts_id=4
1984 Mark V 500 and an early 1954 greenie. jointer, belt sander, bandsaw, jigsaw, planner.
Jeff
Jeff
Information about bee's wax for those of you in cooler places:
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=5036
Ed
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=5036
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]