Shopsmith Forums

beeg wrote:The adjustable stop collar is used to set depth of a cut only.

Ed was describing a 'different' method of adjusting the fence to bit distance when set up in drill press mode. In that setup, moving the table relative to the carriage changes the fence to bit distance. Hence the adjustable collar will also work for that.

Not an obvious use of it! Same re using the table height crank to move fence in/out! Things flipped 90 degrees from 'normal'.

reible wrote: . . ,
Not bad for some tape stuck on the table, I'd say. Even better then I'd hoped for. And again I'm happy they turned out that close but it wasn't really needed.

Ed

Ya measuring drilling accuracy, or sawing width accuracy? Looks to me like you aligned with the tape on the same side(holes aligned with bottom of pieces in the pix and only the top varying?)

P.S. I think 'both'!

JPG40504 wrote:In that setup, moving the table relative to the carriage changes the fence to bit distance. Hence the adjustable collar will also work for that.

Please explain HOW a vertical height adjustment changes a horizontal measurement?

beeg wrote:Please explain HOW a vertical height adjustment changes a horizontal measurement?

When the way tubes(with the carriage and table) are raised to vertical(drill press mode) from a horizontal(normal sawing) position, that which was vertical(table to carriage distance) becomes horizontal. The table is also flipped 90 degrees so as to become horizontal either way.

Set it up and you will see that when in drill press setup, the table height crank will indeed move the table mounted fence in and out from the spindle.

beeg wrote:OOOOOOPPPPPSSSSSS I MISSED it being in drill press mode. Never thought of or seen it used like that before.

And I had never considered mounting it below the carriage!

JPG40504 wrote:And I had never considered mounting it below the carriage!

And this from 2006:
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?p=2464&postcount=20

HOWEVER, the homemade drum sander was an operator failure for me. Not because of the stop collar, but from my too anxious use of the sander, and also had a dust collector dumb trick:( .

This is another project that I'm now working on but I think we can squeeze one more drilling tip in on this post.

In this case I need to drill a hole though a piece of wood that is 3-1/2 inch thick. I need the hole to be 3/16" diameter and I'm using a stock twist drill that can not drill this deep. Bits vary in length, in my case this bit is end to end 3-1/2". By the time it is chucked I ended with about 2-1/2" drilling depth.

One option is to buy a longer bit, $, time and effort made me think no, I can use another trick and get to show you another way at the same time.

At today's start point the set up has been done, the fence is adjusted so all the holes will be drilled a set distance from there. The drill table is clamped in place so it can not move along the fence. I have drilled two holes as deep as I can with the bit I have.

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I have also used the bit to drill a hole in the drill table. The bit is pointing at the hole.

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From my junk box I select a short section of 3/16 dowel to put in the hole.

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The dowel can now be cut down to say a 1/2" high. A bit of sandpaper to clean it up is a good idea, the picture shows it before that happened.

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When the work piece is flip around make sure you keep the same side that was towards the fence is still facing the fence. You fix the other hole position by sliding the work piece hole over the dowel. You are now controlling both front to back and side to side movement.

Drilling the holes should align very well now because they are centered. You need only drill until you feel the first hole.

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charlese wrote:And this from 2006:
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?p=2464&postcount=20

HOWEVER, the homemade drum sander was an operator failure for me. Not because of the stop collar, but from my too anxious use of the sander, and also had a dust collector dumb trick:( .

That was before 'my time'!:D