Overarm Pin Router: why the table?

james.miller · Post by **james.miller** » Sat Nov 10, 2007 3:59 pm

The Smithy and the Harbor Freight machines use the spindle for the router limited to the maximum RPM of the machine. This is the same as using the SS in the vertical position and attaching the router chuck 555191 and bit to the spindle, you can do some routing this way but the bit turns slow and it is quite limited to what you can do. I much prefer a router motor mounted to the overarm attachment, I feel it cuts much better.

Even using the SS with the router chuck it would be useful to make auxiliary tables and fences for the different operations.

How fast should a router bit turn? Here is a link to a chart from RouterBits.com http://www.routerbits.com/cgi-routerbit ... er%20speed

Someone on this forum liked the Shopsmith to route Cherry because it doesn't burn at the slower speed of the Shopsmith headstock.

reible · Post by **reible** » Sat Nov 10, 2007 5:15 pm

james.miller wrote:The Smithy and the Harbor Freight machines use the spindle for the router limited to the maximum RPM of the machine. This is the same as using the SS in the vertical position and attaching the router chuck 555191 and bit to the spindle, you can do some routing this way but the bit turns slow and it is quite limited to what you can do. I much prefer a router motor mounted to the overarm attachment, I feel it cuts much better.

Even using the SS with the router chuck it would be useful to make auxiliary tables and fences for the different operations.

How fast should a router bit turn? Here is a link to a chart from RouterBits.com http://www.routerbits.com/cgi-routerbits/loadpage.cgi?1194727964_8073+faq.htm#router%20speed

Someone on this forum liked the Shopsmith to route Cherry because it doesn't burn at the slower speed of the Shopsmith headstock.

I guess I didn't make my last post very clear... the discussion has been about why shopsmith (overhead router) went with a router table on top of the main table and not just went with the main table. My point was that the "other" machine(s) now list them as "pin" routers and I was wondering how they were doing this. The information from them doesn't say.

Nick had mentioned the eccentric idea... but I'm not sure why that would be needed since the table is in a fixed relationship to the spindle.... sounds like one could just make a new table insert with a threaded insert.... for those that might like to try the shopsmith in that mode.

BTW the other machine does run faster then the shopsmith.... but still slow for a router.

Ed

fjimp · Post by **fjimp** » Sat Nov 10, 2007 5:37 pm

Ed,

I for one really don't want router bits even close to the Aluminum SS table. I spent most of today adapting the table that came with my OPR and routing out the sliding table Nick introduced us to. I am close to having it finished and am looking forward to experiencing the new freedom of overhead routing. I rather like the way the router attaches to the arm above the table and lets me see what I am doing. The thought of bit extending thru the Aluminum table makes me a bit nervous. Jim

reible · Post by **reible** » Sat Nov 10, 2007 6:29 pm

fjimp wrote:Ed,

I for one really don't want router bits even close to the Aluminum SS table. I spent most of today adapting the table that came with my OPR and routing out the sliding table Nick introduced us to. I am close to having it finished and am looking forward to experiencing the new freedom of overhead routing. I rather like the way the router attaches to the arm above the table and lets me see what I am doing. The thought of bit extending thru the Aluminum table makes me a bit nervous. Jim

Hey Jim,

First the question here is not mine..... it is a discussion about "why the extra table". My part of it was how do the "other" shopsmith "like" machines do it.... not if it is a good idea or not.

Second shopsmith already sells a router adapter for the shopsmith that sits over the table so your comments might be directed to why they did that. I think their reason is that the table insert can be changed out to either plastic or wood or some other non-metal material, or you use one of the inserts designed for it with the cut-out. Keep in mind the headstock IS in the overhead position. Other then running slow it is for all intent an overhead router.

Third my post was dealing with pin routing and if you have done any of that you know you need something between the bit and the pin... if you haven't seen my posts on several pin routing project I can point you to the pictures... or you can search for the posts. I normal like that to be about 3/4" plus the remainder of the material in the pattern piece.

On the subject of the OPR, for me the overhead part is OK but the pin part is what I got mine for and how I use it most often. I think todays hands-online was going to be on that subject.... have to check back in a few days and see how that went.

Ed

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Sat Nov 10, 2007 6:46 pm

reible wrote:"...On the subject of the OPR, for me the overhead part is OK but the pin part is what I got mine for and how I use it most often. I think todays hands-online was going to be on that subject.... have to check back in a few days and see how that went.
Ed

The session went very well! There was a very clear video, and nice clear sound. At one point Nick's battery went dead and there was about two minutes without audio. (I think they will install new batteries before each presentation from now on)

The pin routing was presented quite well. Even showed three dimensional routing. The concept of pin routing got across very well! Nick failed to lock the router tightly a couple of times, and it dove on him

- explained he was hurrying. He also explained you could use the stop (depth) screw if you want, for added safety to prevent router depth diving. He had a lot to cover in a short time.

Also a good session on the strip sander. Be sure to catch it when they get it into the archives.

reible · Post by **reible** » Sat Nov 10, 2007 8:36 pm

Yea I'm looking forward to seeing this weekends presentation... Can't say I've ever had the router "dive" on me, yet anyhow. I know I have to do another lub job and gib adjustment soon. Right now when I when I release the depth control handle the router slides down....... The adjustment doesn't seem to last a whole year, at least for me. I should do that before my next project I guess.

The strip sander is also one of my favorite attachments, so that should be interesting as well. I keep thinking about adding a second one to the shop but then think I should be able to get along with one.

Ed

gregf · Post by **gregf** » Thu Jun 19, 2008 8:10 am

After watching the video, the light came on as to how versatile this is.
I asked myself the same question regarding the need for the table.

Not disagreeing that it's best having the SS table, my thinking is, it wouldn't be too tough to make a table.
Also being able to order the OPR without the table would save a few bucks and make the buying decision a slam dunk.
Or another thought is that spreading the cost out over two orders, buying the arm one month and the table the next, would make it easier.

Looking at the parts list for the OPR, the arm assy. and the table assy. are separate items.
I called customer service to see if using that part number I could order just the arm.
No deal.
(It was worth a try, regardless customer service at SS is so nice, it's always a good experience talking to them)

Ok I ordered the OPR, which is on back order.

It's on back order waiting on.......... (drum roll please)

You guessed it, the TABLE!

Oh well, hopefully it won't be much longer.
It will be lots of fun to have it.

Ed in Tampa · Post by **Ed in Tampa** » Thu Jun 19, 2008 10:13 am

I still want a way to combine both table routing and pin routing. I mentioned this awhile ago and Nick said he and Drew had a jig that allowed a router to be mounted and used as a table router along with the pin router. He promised to do a sawdust session showing the jig. I brought this up again during a recent past Sawdust sessions that Nick promised to do a future Sawdust session on the jig. Drew said he would remind Nick.

I would really like to build a table that could be used instead of the main table that has insert for mounting a router underneath it Router table fashion and also be able to hold pin insert for OPR. Then I would like to be able to buy the OPR without a table.

I wonder what is would cost SS to mount a MDF or Baltic ply table on the main table trunions and sell it in a package with the present OPR less the original OPR table?

I would think that would be great and would really make the OPR a universal and much needed tool.
Ed

gregf · Post by **gregf** » Thu Jun 19, 2008 6:20 pm

How would having a router below the OPR be used vs having the Pro-fence router table be usefull?
That's an interesting idea to mount a MDF router table on the trunions.
I'm not picturing how it would be used.

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Thu Jun 19, 2008 10:11 pm

Ed in Tampa wrote:I still want a way to combine both table routing and pin routing. I mentioned this awhile ago and Nick said he and Drew had a jig that allowed a router to be mounted and used as a table router along with the pin router. He promised to do a sawdust session showing the jig. I brought this up again during a recent past Sawdust sessions that Nick promised to do a future Sawdust session on the jig. Drew said he would remind Nick. ...
Ed

Isn't memory a funny thing? I remember the promised jig as being one that would allow OPR users to mount the OPR beneath the table, not another router. The only way I can figure to do this is to turn the OPR unit upside down. I've tried to visualize this in both horizontal and vertical modes. Hmmm! Can't imagine a jig that would do the job. Am waiting to be enlightened.

Greg - I love your signature statement!