Shopsmith Forums

dlbristol wrote:This looks like the method for cutting molding by pushing the stock across the blade at an angle. I have been intrigued by this, but it reading about it, I got the impression that it was not for beginners. Like Chuck, I might use this method to " clean up" a repetitive cut process, but I am not at all comfortable with the method. I have learned to listen to that "voice"! ( Couple of red marks on the old belly convinced me that not all the voices I hear are crazy):o I also have started to get a few hand planes and the clean up of a tenon seems a good place to used them.

This is like almost every thing else. If you do not feel comfortable doing it, you should not do it. There are other, conventional methods to cut tenons.

With regard to feeding into the side of the saw blade, there are definite limits and you know when you are exceeding those limits if you just listen. If you try to make too deep of a cut, that blade growls as you attempt to feed it. If the depth of cut is reasonable, it sounds like it is just cutting.

I don't believe what I have done, even if done over an extended period of time, would warp the blade.

Cutting hardwoods might be a different story. All I had was some pine and some poplar.

judaspre1982 wrote:My ? ---is there anything negative about applying lateral force/pressure to the saw blade?....

...Or maybe someone who has used there saw blade to make wide deep cove molding like the one in PTWFE
Dave

You can quickly feel the resistance if you try to take too big a sideways cut. Back off and go lighter.

I think making cove molding is where I got the idea to use it on mortises.

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Is this more or less dangerous than any other cut on the saw?
No not really. Sure we can think of many scenarios where it appears to be dangerous, but if you really want to you can do the same with any other cut.

I have seen wood go flying, explode, snap, shot or kick back, snatched out the hands feeding it and etc on normal rip and crosscuts. And of those things could have been a accident waiting to happen if the operator wasn't using the saw right.

This method while not a pretty as many others works, it is similar to cove cutting on a table saw where you feed the wood diagonially to the blade to cut a cove in it.

The Saw can only hurt you when you put your body parts into contact with the blade or stand where the saw will tose a piece of wood at you.

Notice the guy in the video he kept in right hand firmly holding on to the miter gauge. If the wood would be ripped from his grasp his hold on the miter gauge would prevent his fingers from going into the blade.

He stressed you MUST use the Miter gauge that prevents the wood from cocking and getting caught between the fence and the blade, it also is something to anchor you hands to.

The only scarely part of this video is it is something we don't often see. But watch again notice no matter what goes wrong the operator has his hands and body in such a position that nothing comes into contact with the blade or the line of fire if the wood is flung into space by an angry saw blade.

Here's a link from Pop Wood I found this morning.