Posted: Fri Nov 11, 2011 10:37 pm
[quote="JPG40504"]Wait for it! A response from Plant City, FL.]
Thanks. My lengthly response. I am finally back working in my shop each day now thanks to my new Alzheimer pill (Aricept). Please let me know if I owe anyone any parts or responses from the past several years. Thanks.
You will need to saw both legs off at the bottom of the trunnion cross bar, weld an aluminum "L" bracket to the trunnion where the legs were cut off. The "L" bracket will only fit on one side of the trunnion as the stop pin for tilting is in the way on the other side. Then I use clamps, a wide 3/4" plywood board across both table and spacers to clamp the table being worked on to the main table at its lowest position so the fence rails will line straight and level, with the legs in the headrest, I position the table being worked on over the legs and match the top of the legs to the "L" bracket and tack weld or braze the legs to the "L" bracket on one side. Then I disconnect the tables and insure the working table will slide up and down with out binding. I then raise the main table high and make sure the working table still aligns with the main table. Once I get the legs to where they will slide and maintain position, I tack weld the other side of the legs and repeat the tests. If still OK, then I remove the working table and finish welding the legs to the "L" bracket. I try to do several tables at the same time as I have the tools and equipment available then. I find these modified tillable tables can be used for many tasks.
Thanks. My lengthly response. I am finally back working in my shop each day now thanks to my new Alzheimer pill (Aricept). Please let me know if I owe anyone any parts or responses from the past several years. Thanks.
You will need to saw both legs off at the bottom of the trunnion cross bar, weld an aluminum "L" bracket to the trunnion where the legs were cut off. The "L" bracket will only fit on one side of the trunnion as the stop pin for tilting is in the way on the other side. Then I use clamps, a wide 3/4" plywood board across both table and spacers to clamp the table being worked on to the main table at its lowest position so the fence rails will line straight and level, with the legs in the headrest, I position the table being worked on over the legs and match the top of the legs to the "L" bracket and tack weld or braze the legs to the "L" bracket on one side. Then I disconnect the tables and insure the working table will slide up and down with out binding. I then raise the main table high and make sure the working table still aligns with the main table. Once I get the legs to where they will slide and maintain position, I tack weld the other side of the legs and repeat the tests. If still OK, then I remove the working table and finish welding the legs to the "L" bracket. I try to do several tables at the same time as I have the tools and equipment available then. I find these modified tillable tables can be used for many tasks.