In the case you describe the shims still go between the plate and protractor, in your case you put them to the inside. As shown here:
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When you have the time give it a try.
Ed
I will try that, Ed.
A slight change in subject. I see that you have an Incra 1000. Do you use this on a Shopsmith? I don't see it in the Incra catalog.
PS: No problem. I see that you have an Incra 2000 not a 1000. It also is not in the Incra catalog as being Shopsmith compatible but I see it in the Shopsmith catalog.
Apparently Incra does not offer it direct as they do the V120SE.
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
I also have the Miter 1000HD that is not a shopsmith comparable unit but works great on the shopsmith version miter express. It too has the same method of adjustment.
For those that have to shim, you can use other materials like foils and thin flat stock, hardware stores and or hobby stores are good sources for that material. I just picked up some brass stock 1/2" x 6" x .016" for a project at a Lowes store(now closed). I also have a box of "shims" mostly scrapes of metal left overs or from scraped house hold items that I scavenged.
Ed
dusty wrote:I will try that, Ed.
A slight change in subject. I see that you have an Incra 1000. Do you use this on a Shopsmith? I don't see it in the Incra catalog.
PS: No problem. I see that you have an Incra 2000 not a 1000. It also is not in the Incra catalog as being Shopsmith compatible but I see it in the Shopsmith catalog.
Apparently Incra does not offer it direct as they do the V120SE.
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
FWIW, I purchased an Incra Miter 5000 sled for may table saw (very nice set up). I subsequently purchased from Incra, a Shopsmith sized miter bars for the sled and the auxiliary table so that I can convert it for use with my Shopsmith. The protractor can be removed from the sled and mounted directly on the miter bar converting it to an Incra 3000 miter gauge. Again, FWIW.
For anyone not satisfied with the setup or manufacture of Incra miter products, a hard unbiased look at the Shop Smith edition of the Osborne Miter guage is well worth a look. http://www.osbornemfg.com.
Well, I was able to easily add shims to correct the alignment. It took 4 layers of sheet protector (thanks to Dusty for the tip) that totaled about 0.012" and now the face is perpendicular to the table. If you look closely, you can see the ends of the clear shims next to the black surface.
In hindsight, the instructions should have you perform this adjustment before adjusting it to be square to the saw blade.
mountainbreeze wrote:Well, I was able to easily add shims to correct the alignment. It took 4 layers of sheet protector (thanks to Dusty for the tip) that totaled about 0.012" and now the face is perpendicular to the table. If you look closely, you can see the ends of the clear shims next to the black surface.
In hindsight, the instructions should have you perform this adjustment before adjusting it to be square to the saw blade.
Thanks to all for the feedback.
Bill
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Only after I enlarged the image several times was I able to see the shims. Actually, I see the gap that was created better than I can see the shims. I am pleased that this worked for you and I owe a great "thank you" to Ed for showing us how this can be done.
Who would have thought that a .012" shim would close that gap (first image in thread).
I had doubts that the fence could be moved in that direction by shimming in that location.
Now you gotta prove to yourself that this miter gauge was a good investment. If you are unable to do that, I'll gladly take it off your hands.
First set the miter gauge for 45°. Then with a piece of wood about 4' long,that you have determined to be straight, cut it in half. Put the two pieces back together to form a 90° and check it.
If you are not just as pleased as can be, your stock wasn't straight to begin with.
The real test - make eight pieces, all the same length, and cut opposing 22 1/2° miters on each end. Put them together to form a frame, being very careful to fit the miters together with no gap.
When you come to that last piece, slide it in place very carefully and see how much gap you have. I think you will once again be pleased.
A better way to do this last test:
Put out a long piece of painter's masking tape (blue stuff), sticky side up. Starting about 4" from one end, lay one of the pieces you just cut on the tape (long side down). Continue to do these, placing all eight of the pieces snuggly, end for end. Now roll that whole string of pieces 90° and pull the ends together. The resulting gap tells the whole story.
You made a good purchase.
You can do exactly the same thing with a Shopsmith miter gauge but you have to spend some time getting that 22 1/2° setting right on. It's now Wixey time.
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty, I guess great minds think alike. I tried both of those tests yesterday with excellent results. A quick octagon test with some old crib rails is shown. I was impressed to say the least especially since I really wasn't trying that hard to be precise.
I think my original picture is (unintentionally) misleading as to the size of the gap. I too was suprised that only 0.012" was all it took.
Great job and I believe it says all that needs to be said about the Incra V120 Miter Gauge.
Realizing that any error that might exist in the miter gauge setting is compounded with each joint, one must come to the conclusion that this miter gauge is "right on".
Amazing. Even more amazing - Incra makes one or two versions that are even more accurate. Reible has one of those (and many two).
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
So now WHY wood I want to buy an Incra V120 Miter Gauge. If it's knot accurate out of the box?
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop. .
.
Bob
