Shopsmith Forums

That seems like sage advice, ed. I shall make it a point to follow it religously. I have already reinstalled the normal insert and saw guard and hung the zero clearance insert back on the tool board.

I shall be cutting large stock for a while now. Everything on my to do list falls in the category of furniture; there shall be little need for zero clearance protection.

You know, it was sort of fun when the kids all wanted toys. Now that they are all older....

dusty wrote:Thanks for the inputs guys but you have not addressed the real question.

What is the concerns about thru-cuts with a zero clearance insert?

Maybe the real question for this dummy to be asking is - "What is a thru cut" ?

Dusty
The concern about using the zero clearance insert is because you don't have the riving knife in place nor the saw guard. On a through cut that means there is a real danger of blade pinch with a kick back and an exposed blade.

I use my zero clearance almost exclusively but I have done two things I either us the one sold by Shopsmith that allows the blade guard to be mounted or I do like someone else mentioned and extend the cut so I can put the blade guard back on.

My blade guard is much smaller than the SS since I use the Sharkguard.

I would never make a cut on a table saw without a riving knife in place, I have seen too many kickbacks when the wood squeezes the blade grabs it and kicks it back. I saw one guy almost run his hand through the blade when this happened and it was enough for me.

As to Nicks demo, becuase of the tiny wood he is using it would break before it would kick back. However I use the zero clearance not so much to keep pieces from being lost but rather for a clean cut. Since the blade is cutting down it has a tendency to tear out the wood on either side of the cut. With a zero clearance insert the wood is totally supported on either side of the cut so you eliminate tear out.

I hope this answers you question. Keep you zero clearance just lengthen the slot so you can slip the saw guard back in. You will be surprized how improved your cuts will be.
Ed

I just purchased a MJ Spli++er(tm) which works with the Shopsmith zero clearance fence to prevent kickback. I have not used it yet on the Shopsmith but have on another saw and it works very well. I had to purchase a zero clearance insert WITHOUT the slot. I had previously used the one with the slot but for narrow cuts the guard gets in the way. I also got the GRR-Ripper® System by the same company that solved the issue of no guard when using the insert.

A zero clearance insert is the best way to crosscut plywood, when used with a good plywood blade the cross-cut edge is very clean instead of splintered.

I make my zero clearance inserts and after lowering them onto the saw blade I remove them and extend the cut lines toward the back the same distance as a regular insert by cutting it out on the scroll saw. This way I can use the upper guard on any cut where it can be used.

Zero clearance inserts can also be used for dado and rabbet cuts, you couldn't use the upper guard for these cuts but the zero clearance insert would help to give a cleaner edge on the cut.

Ed in Tampa and Jim in Tucson - thank you for those inputs. I believe they have resulted in a safer work area for me.

I have followed your example and modified one of my zero clearance inserts so that it can be used with the upper saw guard installed.

After the first of the year, I WILL GET A BETTER DIGITAL CAMERA - promise.

Reviving an old topic, what material are you guys using for your ZCIs?

Cheers,
John

I have no real hard standard. It sorta depends on what is in the shop. Right now, nothing. So if I was going to make zci today, I would have to go to the lumber yard to buy a sheet of 1/2" Baltic Birch Plywood. The more layers the better.

In the absence of Baltic, I use 1/2" plywood.

I find that any 1/4" stock works well. If you don't have 1/4" scrap stock laying around in the shop, you have to plane down thicker stock, and then it becomes work.
Use whatever actual 1/4" scraps you have and it will work.

Thanks all!

Thanks for the schematic Dusty and thanks Gary. I might just take 1/4" stock and cut it to size and use a smaller 1/4" stock and glue to middle to give it a bit more structure.

Cheers,
John

I do most of the work on this part of the ZCI on a table router. One of the drawings here is the template which I put on with two sided tape. The two outside edges are simple 1/4" insets which I cut first. That established the location of the template.

Be aware - when I make these I do a dozen or so at once; a bit of a small production line approach.