Shopsmith Forums

+1 on all of JPGs advice, it's exactly how I lube my A Sandcast (Kind of a pain but worth the effort)
+1 on 3 in 1 Oil They also now have a handy dispenser that looks like an old oil can and has an extendable flexible spout.

http://www.3inone.com/products/telescoping-spout/ I got mine at a popular big box store and it really works quite well for the SS.

To oil the upper and lower sheaves,

is it necessary that the speed be run up to the "high" position?

After doing this the "right" way a couple of times, I can now easily locate both oil holes by rotating the spindle and just moving the spring from over the motor shaft sheave. Locating the idler sheave oil hole is even easier.

In other words, does something else magically happen when the unit is run up to the "high" position?

pfallert wrote:To oil the upper and lower sheaves,

is it necessary that the speed be run up to the "high" position?

After doing this the "right" way a couple of times, I can now easily locate both oil holes by rotating the spindle and just moving the spring from over the motor shaft sheave. Locating the idler sheave oil hole is even easier.

In other words, does something else magically happen when the unit is run up to the "high" position?

When in fast position, the control sheave is extended off the end of the idler shaft and closer to the porkchop, thus closer to the access hole and the oil will be applied to that end of the shaft. The sheave distributes the oil to the inside area of the shaft when running down to slow a couple of times.

When in fast position, the floating sheave is open and thus the tension on the spring(which you must oil 'through') is less. Oil also gets distributed to the other end as above...

That is why the holes are where they are!;)

Yes, making a mark on the sheave is a great idea!

About the spring: I find that moving the spring is not difficult to do with just a push with two fingers, even in the low speed position. No screwdriver required (as in the Sawdust Session) and the classes I once attended.

If I am understanding the comments about the position of the sheeve in HIGH speed position, the oil is being deposited on a different portion of the idler shaft.

Thanks for clearing this up.

pfallert wrote:Yes, making a mark on the sheave is a great idea!

About the spring: I find that moving the spring is not difficult to do with just a push with two fingers, even in the low speed position. No screwdriver required (as in the Sawdust Session) and the classes I once attended.

If I am understanding the comments about the position of the sheeve in HIGH speed position, the oil is being deposited on a different portion of the idler shaft.

Thanks for clearing this up.

And the motor shaft when ya run through the speed range a couple of times. It is not a matter of oiling one spot, the entire shaft needs to be lubricated.

I do not understand how you are 'pulling' the spring coils apart by 'pushing'.

JPG wrote: I don't know how you are 'pulling' the spring coils apart by 'pushing'.

A video would make it clearer.

Standing on the side headstock with the SS emblem, I push with my right hand on the bottom "land" ( "coil"? ) of the spring with my index finger to the left and push the top land to the right with my thumb. This is exactly the same twist of the wrist that I use to tighten the 4 supersized wing nuts that are a mainstay of the SS tightening systems.

Someone called the tightening process their "5 step safety check" before they run their SS. The thumb push actually moves one (or two) of the obstructing "lands" away from over the oil hole, while the index finger keeps the spring from moving away from what I would call the shoulder of the shaft that the sheave spins on.

pfallert wrote:JPG wrote: I don't know how you are 'pulling' the spring coils apart by 'pushing'.

A video would make it clearer.

Standing on the side headstock with the SS emblem, I push with my right hand on the bottom "land" ( "coil"? ) of the spring with my index finger to the left and push the top land to the right with my thumb. This is exactly the same twist of the wrist that I use to tighten the 4 supersized wing nuts that are a mainstay of the SS tightening systems.

Someone called the tightening process their "5 step safety check" before they run their SS. The thumb push actually moves one (or two) of the obstructing "lands" away from over the oil hole, while the index finger keeps the spring from moving away from what I would call the shoulder of the shaft that the sheave spins on.

I would call that 'twisting the coils'!:)

Either your springs are weaker than those I have encountered, or your thumb/forefinger is stronger than mine!;)

If you are using that much force to tighten the wingnut locks, be prepared to replace some 'lock' parts eventually.

There are 5 separate tightening steps to that 'process'.

JPG wrote: "Either your springs are weaker than those I have encountered, or your thumb/forefinger is stronger than mine! If you are using that much force to tighten the wingnut locks, be prepared to replace some 'lock' parts eventually."

I agree, the spring is not weak. In fact, at the SS classes that I attended, the instructors used a screwdriver to force the spring "lands" apart. It might be that the spring is not under as much compression when the sheaves are not run up to the "fast" speed position. In any event, I found it to be do-able when the sheaves are in the "slow" speed position. Again, the written word fails to communicate the intended message. I was referring to the artful "twist of the wrist", not any overpowering muscle building g-forces being applied. I follow the SS guidelines for tightening those ubiquitous wing nuts, as we all should. The Sawdust Sessions have been a great supplement to the SS classes and a reminder of the little points that we all tend to forget. Nick Engler has also always been my favorite ww instructor, too. His books are very clear. Every instructor at the SS classes had different tips and tricks and really made the SS work to its full potential. I can't say enough good things about my SS equipment. Simply first-class.

FWIW the spring is least tensioned at the fast setting. :)