Shopsmith Forums

chipmaster wrote:Mr. Campbell is indeed an excellent resource. I previously stumbled upon another of his videos showcasing his own restored 10ER but I had not seen this tutorial before. Thanks for the tip! Pertinent piece from the text accompanying the video: "I recommend using Fafnir 202KLL3 bearings, no substitutes." Sounds good to me!

Here's another question: I just got my scroll saw running tonight. It has some sort of sacrificial material that acts as a blade guide/cooling block. Mine barely moves in the shaft, I suspect because of age turning it brittle. Is there a replacement source out there?

Appreciate the helpful chime-ins so far.

v/r,

Rick

FWIW, that is a 'jig' saw. Did you adjust the blade tension(that engages the return spring that pulls the blade up). I am not familiar with that model, but as I understand it, it is slightly better than 'nothing'. I do not know why it has that 'reputation'.

Whoa! Easy on the criticism of my baby! The jig/scroll saw is running fine. I'm just wondering about this little backing cylinder that was hard to adjust because (I think) it has outlived its pliability. I'll post a close-up pic when able.

chipmaster wrote:Mr. Campbell is indeed an excellent resource. I previously stumbled upon another of his videos showcasing his own restored 10ER but I had not seen this tutorial before. Thanks for the tip! Pertinent piece from the text accompanying the video: "I recommend using Fafnir 202KLL3 bearings, no substitutes." Sounds good to me!

Here's another question: I just got my scroll saw running tonight. It has some sort of sacrificial material that acts as a blade guide/cooling block. Mine barely moves in the shaft, I suspect because of age turning it brittle. Is there a replacement source out there?

Appreciate the helpful chime-ins so far.

v/r,

Rick

Be aware that a good premimum bearing is not cheap. I find most of these bearings are from old stock and not currently made anymore. I have done a lot of high speed bearing testing with my jig and find most bearing sourses offer inferier bearings (poor motor grade). I seem to lose each bearing company (out of business) which makes outstanding bearings so I have been able to order large quality of these bearings. I am currently looking for higher quality bearings reasonble priced but have settled for bearings from http://www.usabearingsandbelts.com http://www.usabearingsandbelts.com as they tested the best for the price charged. Most ceramic bearings test outstanding but the $50-$100 per bearing is beyond my bugdet.

I have a few 10ER jig saws available along with parts so if you can send me a clear picture of the item in question by Email, annbill.mayo@comcast.net, I may be able to help you.

I am in the process of totally rearranging my shop and hope to have my metal lathes in production within the next week. We found more Shopsmith additional parts and items than I knew I have stored. Doubling my shop storage and lighting plus moving most of my equipment to make better use of it. If anyone has a Shopsmith need or want, I may very well have it available now. My health has improved so much (been really blessed) to where I am getting more time in my shop than in the past 20 years and feeling better.

If I owe anyone any instructions, parts, answers, please let me know.

My new 10ER came with all the original documentation plus a collection of odds and ends such as issues of "Shopsmith Shavings." I may scan a few of these if I'm not reinventing the wheel. Does someone already have these archived somewhere already?

I'm attaching a scan of the speed reference chart I have as a sample. Okay, upload failed. Tried resizing, etc. Argh.

Bill - Those bearings would be out of my budget also! I am glad to hear you are up and around. If you've got a stock of old parts, I would be interested in pricing one of those variable speed attachments I've seen.

v/r,

Rick

chipmaster wrote:My new 10ER came with all the original documentation plus a collection of odds and ends such as issues of "Shopsmith Shavings." I may scan a few of these if I'm not reinventing the wheel. Does someone already have these archived somewhere already?

I'm attaching a scan of the speed reference chart I have as a sample. Okay, upload failed. Tried resizing, etc. Argh.

Bill - Those bearings would be out of my budget also! I am glad to hear you are up and around. If you've got a stock of old parts, I would be interested in pricing one of those variable speed attachments I've seen.

v/r,

Rick

Argh must mean the scan did not work.

chipmaster wrote:My new 10ER came with all the original documentation plus a collection of odds and ends such as issues of "Shopsmith Shavings." I may scan a few of these if I'm not reinventing the wheel. Does someone already have these archived somewhere already?

I'm attaching a scan of the speed reference chart I have as a sample. Okay, upload failed. Tried resizing, etc. Argh.

Bill - Those bearings would be out of my budget also! I am glad to hear you are up and around. If you've got a stock of old parts, I would be interested in pricing one of those variable speed attachments I've seen.

v/r,

Rick

Did not mean to 'criticize' your baby!:o Was just passing others 'opinion'.

Try scanning to a pdf, then attaching the pdf.

Okay, that worked.

Also uploading:

- Close-up of cooling block/blade guide that is acting stubborn
[ATTACH]14878[/ATTACH]
- Picture of stripped jigsaw
[ATTACH]14879[/ATTACH]
- Picture of painted jigsaw
[ATTACH]14880[/ATTACH]

I used the self-etching primer someone here recommended, then Rustoleum hammered finish light blue. I was already a fan of the hammered finish paint. I'm really pleased with the way it came out. With the weekend done, not sure how soon I will have it reassembled and running again.

v/r,

Rick

The attached scan is of the original receipt for my 10ER. A down payment was made 7 Dec 1950 on it, and I love the fact there's a handwritten note "Please deliver in time for Xmas." Since I consider it my own Christmas present (to myself) this year, it's as though I'm carrying on a tradition with the machine.

I think the document is also cool because of the original prices shown. The whole thing, plus a jig saw, bench ends, motor, etc. cost $260.49. It's interesting to me also that the machine and the motor were separate items. Just a cool piece of history.

v/r,

Rick

[ATTACH]14881[/ATTACH]

That 'cooling block' is a phenolic like rod that backs up the blade. The groove is either due to wear or a po cut it intentionally.

Great paint job etc.!

The saw is running much smoother after all the internals were cleaned, in some cases polished, and oiled with sewing machine oil.

[ATTACH]14917[/ATTACH]