Sliding Miter Table

[JPG]

Well done!


I would be the last one to accuse anyone of blasphemy for independent thinking and adaptation of non-ss hardware for use with a ss!

[peterm]

I like this idea a lot so I recently got a sliding table from a local guy who was parting out a BT3000 with a bad motor.
Before I invent a way to mount it, has anyone else applied Ron's (worknhard's) great idea to a model 510 SS ? If so I would be very interested in your mounting details.

[sailseahawk]

For some time now, I have been a big fan and owner of the BT3000. That tool has a similarly enthusiastic, but smaller following and associated forum. I have always thought the modular top system has much in common with SS on a conceptual level. For most projects, I use my SS for everything EXCEPT the table saw because my BT3000 is so convenient.

I bought my BT3000 because my father had one, and I liked it so much. Age has finally caught up with him, and he has asked me to take all of his shop . Now I have TWO BT3000s, and was wondering what I should do. I had not even thought of making the systems compatible.

Hmmm. inspired by worknhard, I think I shall assemble a SS Model 530...use the rails and tables from the BT3000 on my SS for interchangeability.

Seahawk

[pennview]

Peter, I gave some thought to this, but never followed through on it as I'd rather use a table saw than the Shopsmith for sawing because of the tilting table. But, my thinking was to get a couple of 510 floating table tubes that bolt to the floating table and attach them to some angle iron, together with a piece of wood/plywood for making a floating table of sorts to which I'd attach the Ryobi sliding table. Essentially, it's the same approach as the original poster's, but using 510 parts attached to angle iron instead of 520 parts.

Please show us what you end up making, as I still have one of those BT-3000s in the basement.

[worknhard]

Peter, Seahawk... I have designed mounting brackets/fixtures to adapt the BT3000 rails, fence, sliding miter table, and other accessories to the 510. It works great and I love the set-up. Several people have asked me about making the parts/hardware for them so now I am in the process of fabricating a number of kits for those who are interested. I would post pictures but it probably isn't appropriate to do so on this forum. If anyone wants to see some, feel free to PM me. If you want to design your own brackets and mounting hardware I'm more than happy to help where I can and share info... It's not too difficult but requires a bit of measuring and some special machining (milling and drilling) which can get a little pricy unless you are able to do it yourself. I went thru a couple prototypes before I got the fit and configuration I was happy with. Bottom line, I think I have merged the best features of two different saws to create one that is very versatile and meets my needs.

[peterm]

Thanks for the replies to date.
Ron, thanks for the offer of photos via pm but I am going to keep the 510 pipe rails and make brackets that will slide in from the left. (from the right in this photo) I want the sliding table to be like just another extension on my SS and keep the rest of it as supplied by SS, since I do not have a whole BT3000 to be compatible with.
The photo shows that when the Ryobi track sits on the 1" SS tube, the sliding table is above the SS table by a little over 5/8". When I did some measuring, I found slight differences in the thickness overall at the ends of the Ryobi table with track, so I will make room for shims in my brackets. Here are the dimensions I got:
[ATTACH]18716[/ATTACH]
It appears that the bottom of the Ryobi track should be about 0.325" (1.50"-1.175") above the bottom of the 1" diameter tube. I will make my adapters a little lower and then shim up. I am still thinking about how to proceed, but this is an update.

[dusty]

Ron: I'm thinking I might be more inclined to use it on the other side. Is there a reason why that can not be done.

I usually use the miter gauge on the right side of the blade as well. I also have the extension table on the right end and I would think that employing it along with the BT3000 sliding table setup would be more stable.

[worknhard]

Dusty --- No, there isn't any reason why you can't set the sliding miter table on the other side of the blade. For myself I'm most comfortable cross-cutting with a miter on the left side (when facing the saw), so that is where I set my Sliding Miter Table. However I do see how you get a little more stability if you are using an accessory table is on the right end. When I had my 520 set-up, and cross-cutting long boards, I usually extended my table tubes to the left and installed a floating table... but as I'm sure you know, the telescoping legs are needed for stability. There is a considerable amount of flex in the SS saw, especially as the weight/mass of the board you're cutting moves further out from the blade... not to mention that the main table trunnion will probably slip from the level position if you don't stabilize it.

Ron

[fredsheldon]

And the power switch would be easier to reach with the table on the right I would guess.

[dusty]

Ron:

It appears that the two miter tracks (built into the Miter Base-969228-003) are fixed AND that the miter bars are cast into the Miter Table Top-969177-001.

If so, does this mean that the only alignment method available is when the front and rear rails are attached to the Miter Base? In turn, the tubes most need to be very straight and securely attached or they will adversely effect alignment.