A cabinet for an outdoor kitchen.

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mbcabinetmaker
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Post by mbcabinetmaker »

JPG40504 wrote:Alright:mad: Just WHAT do the B, S, and E stand for?:confused::D

B is Bottom Rail (Face frame)

S is Stile (Face Frame Left or Right)

E is Edge (Solid wood shelf edge)

Heck some times I have to pull out the cheat sheet on a large cut list.:o
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Mark

2017 Power Pro Mark 7
2002 50th anniversary model 520
and a few other woodworking tools.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

mbcabinetmaker wrote:B is Bottom Rail (Face frame)

S is Stile (Face Frame Left or Right)

E is Edge (Solid wood shelf edge)

Heck some times I have to pull out the cheat sheet on a large cut list.:o
I thought about rail and stile, but did not know those terms applied to a cabinet face as well as to 'doors'/windows. At least I knew where to put the 'stiles'(on the front).

TWO shelf edges? :confused:

Nothing on the back side other than the 'back' itself. Shoulda noticed the 'bottom' rail was not identified(by me)!:(
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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fjimp
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Post by fjimp »

dusty wrote:
I like the fractional scales on your caliper dial. Mine is decimal. I had a choice and I think I chose wrong.
Dusty I agree I also selected decimal. Oddly enough my bride tried to use the decimal caliper and must have agreed with you. We now share a fractional caliper. Fjimp
F. Jim Parks
Lakewood, Colorado:)

When the love of power is replaced by the power of love the world will have a chance for survival.
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mbcabinetmaker
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Post by mbcabinetmaker »

[ATTACH]14985[/ATTACH]

Here we have the face frame stiles and rails. I have settled on using Festool domino's to join all my frames to the boxes. I will need to punch them along with the pocket screws.







[ATTACH]14986[/ATTACH]

Assembly goes quickly with pocket screws and glue.









[ATTACH]14987[/ATTACH]

I keep a small router set up with a chamfer bit to run around the back inside edge of the face frames. Just enough to break the sharp edges.









[ATTACH]14988[/ATTACH]

At this point I like to double check the overall measurements of the frame and the door measurements.


Being that this cabinet will be outdoors I do not want to use my standard raised panel rail and style cutters. They only have a 3/8 tenon. Sure I could add a floating tenon with the domino but for this project I really want a more simple door so I have decided to build them completely on the Shopsmith 520.

Hang on this is going to be fun. :)
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Mark

2017 Power Pro Mark 7
2002 50th anniversary model 520
and a few other woodworking tools.
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mbcabinetmaker
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Door Rails and Stiles

Post by mbcabinetmaker »

[ATTACH]15038[/ATTACH]

Here I have prepared the rails and stiles. Also on the cart is a piece for setting up the cut. The toe kick and the shelf edging are also pictured as I made it up so that I could sand it all together on the drum sander.






[ATTACH]15039[/ATTACH]

First I will set my depth to 3/4".

This is one of those operation that you simply cannot use any guards. Feather boards would be fine but I seldom use them because you can have some binding and I like to be able to feel the work piece at all times. Just have to go slow and use good sense.

I want to run a 1/4 inch groove in the dead center of the boards. The best way to do that is with 2 passes (one with each side against the fence) using a regular blade. It takes a little trial and error to set up but the end results are a perfectly centered groove.






[ATTACH]15041[/ATTACH]

First pass.






[ATTACH]15040[/ATTACH]


Second pass.






[ATTACH]15042[/ATTACH]

This is all the rails and stiles. Next step will be to run the tenons on the ends of the rails.
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Mark

2017 Power Pro Mark 7
2002 50th anniversary model 520
and a few other woodworking tools.
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beeg
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Post by beeg »

mbcabinetmaker wrote:[ATTACH]15039[/ATTACH]

First I will set my depth to 3/4".

LOOKS like 1/2" to me?:confused:
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
.
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mbcabinetmaker
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Post by mbcabinetmaker »

beeg wrote:LOOKS like 1/2" to me?:confused:

Look at the scale under the dial on the slide. It is on 7. Add the .5 and you have .750 or 3/4".
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Mark

2017 Power Pro Mark 7
2002 50th anniversary model 520
and a few other woodworking tools.
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mbcabinetmaker
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Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 6:18 am
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Post by mbcabinetmaker »

[ATTACH]15043[/ATTACH]

Now I have changed to my dado blades. I am using the test piece to roughly set the depth. This set up will need a little trial and error but after the correct depth is set a pass on each side will leave a perfect 1/4" x 3/4" tenon.








[ATTACH]15044[/ATTACH]

Notice that I have added a sacrificial fence to both my saw fence and the miter gauge.








[ATTACH]15045[/ATTACH]

Tenons complete.
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Mark

2017 Power Pro Mark 7
2002 50th anniversary model 520
and a few other woodworking tools.
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tomsalwasser
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Post by tomsalwasser »

Love this door style Mark...very straightforward...no shaper needed...I use my dado blade all the time. I think I could do this. I think I will! Does this door style have a name?

Thx,
Tom
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mbcabinetmaker
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Post by mbcabinetmaker »

tomsalwasser wrote:Love this door style Mark...very straightforward...no shaper needed...I use my dado blade all the time. I think I could do this. I think I will! Does this door style have a name?

Thx,
Tom

Tom I have always heard it referred to as a Shaker style.
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Mark

2017 Power Pro Mark 7
2002 50th anniversary model 520
and a few other woodworking tools.
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