Shopsmith Forums

JPG40504 wrote:Alright:mad: Just WHAT do the B, S, and E stand for?:D

B is Bottom Rail (Face frame)

S is Stile (Face Frame Left or Right)

E is Edge (Solid wood shelf edge)

Heck some times I have to pull out the cheat sheet on a large cut list.

mbcabinetmaker wrote:B is Bottom Rail (Face frame)

S is Stile (Face Frame Left or Right)

E is Edge (Solid wood shelf edge)

Heck some times I have to pull out the cheat sheet on a large cut list.

I thought about rail and stile, but did not know those terms applied to a cabinet face as well as to 'doors'/windows. At least I knew where to put the 'stiles'(on the front).

TWO shelf edges?

Nothing on the back side other than the 'back' itself. Shoulda noticed the 'bottom' rail was not identified(by me)!:(

dusty wrote:
I like the fractional scales on your caliper dial. Mine is decimal. I had a choice and I think I chose wrong.

Dusty I agree I also selected decimal. Oddly enough my bride tried to use the decimal caliper and must have agreed with you. We now share a fractional caliper. Fjimp

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Here we have the face frame stiles and rails. I have settled on using Festool domino's to join all my frames to the boxes. I will need to punch them along with the pocket screws.







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Assembly goes quickly with pocket screws and glue.









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I keep a small router set up with a chamfer bit to run around the back inside edge of the face frames. Just enough to break the sharp edges.









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At this point I like to double check the overall measurements of the frame and the door measurements.


Being that this cabinet will be outdoors I do not want to use my standard raised panel rail and style cutters. They only have a 3/8 tenon. Sure I could add a floating tenon with the domino but for this project I really want a more simple door so I have decided to build them completely on the Shopsmith 520.

Hang on this is going to be fun.

[ATTACH]15038[/ATTACH]

Here I have prepared the rails and stiles. Also on the cart is a piece for setting up the cut. The toe kick and the shelf edging are also pictured as I made it up so that I could sand it all together on the drum sander.






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First I will set my depth to 3/4".

This is one of those operation that you simply cannot use any guards. Feather boards would be fine but I seldom use them because you can have some binding and I like to be able to feel the work piece at all times. Just have to go slow and use good sense.

I want to run a 1/4 inch groove in the dead center of the boards. The best way to do that is with 2 passes (one with each side against the fence) using a regular blade. It takes a little trial and error to set up but the end results are a perfectly centered groove.






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First pass.






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Second pass.






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This is all the rails and stiles. Next step will be to run the tenons on the ends of the rails.

mbcabinetmaker wrote:[ATTACH]15039[/ATTACH]

First I will set my depth to 3/4".

LOOKS like 1/2" to me?

beeg wrote:LOOKS like 1/2" to me?

Look at the scale under the dial on the slide. It is on 7. Add the .5 and you have .750 or 3/4".

[ATTACH]15043[/ATTACH]

Now I have changed to my dado blades. I am using the test piece to roughly set the depth. This set up will need a little trial and error but after the correct depth is set a pass on each side will leave a perfect 1/4" x 3/4" tenon.








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Notice that I have added a sacrificial fence to both my saw fence and the miter gauge.








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Tenons complete.

Love this door style Mark...very straightforward...no shaper needed...I use my dado blade all the time. I think I could do this. I think I will! Does this door style have a name?

Thx,
Tom

tomsalwasser wrote:Love this door style Mark...very straightforward...no shaper needed...I use my dado blade all the time. I think I could do this. I think I will! Does this door style have a name?

Thx,
Tom

Tom I have always heard it referred to as a Shaker style.