Shopsmith Forums

billparker wrote:Could be that replacing the poly-v will prove to be a big hassle, but I thought I'd try while I was "inside" and had the "operating room" set up. All of the speed controller out, and standing upright and almost "naked". It may be the shaft will be too stubborn and I will decide to wait til the poly breaks.

I did cut the main drive belt out since it was coming out anyway. It was really ragged and that was the easiest way to get it out.

Talking about the speed control dial alignment, when you say 'set', do you mean align the machine for high speed by the belt position of 1/16" from the top and then install the dial to Fast? You weren't too clear (that translates to "I'm too dumb to understand exactly what you meant").

JPG, thanks for your quick responses.

Bill

Yes that is what I meant. I assumed you would either 'look up' reassembly, or ask.

However, the 'high speed adjustment' should be done 'second from last'. FWIW the 'factory setting' is top of screw flush with top of locknut.

The belt condition/wear will affect the 'range' so do not expect 'exact' dial calibration.

I think I got it now. It's not that I haven't used the search function, but I'm finding that old age memory problems cause me problems sometime. I have gotten a lot of information in less than a week, thanks to you and other helpful members on the forum. Please don't think I'm being a wise guy in my posts. Somtimes I don't say things exactly right and they could be interpreted that way.

I am most grateful to the help you've given me.

Bill

PS The tip about the set screw and the lock nut was particularly useful since I found the nut loose and wondered how it should be set.

billparker wrote:I think I got it now. It's not that I haven't used the search function, but I'm finding that old age memory problems cause me problems sometime. I have gotten a lot of information in less than a week, thanks to you and other helpful members on the forum. Please don't think I'm being a wise guy in my posts. Somtimes I don't say things exactly right and they could be interpreted that way.

I am most grateful to the help you've given me.

Bill

PS The tip about the set screw and the lock nut was particularly useful since I found the nut loose and wondered how it should be set.

As out spoken(plain english and at times blunt) as I am I have no problem with anything anybody posts here as long as there is truth present or an apparent need. Sometimes the obvious is not obvious to all and a clear concise jab will clear their vision. I cannot speak for any one else here but that is my vision!;)

Now a caveat! There have been reports of different sized screws under that nut. The screw should prevent the porkchop from positioning the rotating control sheave too close to any non-rotating parts. As I recall, a half inch of screw protruding out the back side is typical.

P.S. It may be the nut thickness that varies. The screw rear projection is what matters.

I have found at least 3 different lengths of the Speed Control High Speed Adjusting Screw. I normally line up the back of the worm screw with the last quadrant teeth valley as a starting point for the High Speed adjustment by turning the screw againest the quadrant (picture below) and locking the nut. Then I always rotate the quill a few turns after installing the Speed Control Assembly to insure the Control Sheave is not hitting the Speed Control bracket arm.

I have available a free allen head bolt, star washers and nylock nut to replace the quadrant rollpin along with pictures and instructions including the way I set the High Speed adjustment before installing the Speed Control Assembly inside the headstock. Send me an Email at (annbill.mayo@comcast.net) if interested.

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I am a fairly new member -- not sure how to start this. I am the owner of a Mark 500 - since 1957. Years ago - after back surgery -- I solved the problem of lifting for drill press - by adding a winch. I attached two 5/8 pillow blocks to the rear motor cover so that a 5/8 rod [axle] ran from front to rear. I attached a nylon cord to the rod , the other end to the top frame
[where the tailpiece anchors] A hand wheel is secured to the end of the shaft, and when you turn the wheel, it winds the cord, raising the headstock.
This has been in use many years, no problems. Any questions ?

loueg

loueg wrote:I am a fairly new member -- not sure how to start this. I am the owner of a Mark 500 - since 1957. Years ago - after back surgery -- I solved the problem of lifting for drill press - by adding a winch. I attached two 5/8 pillow blocks to the rear motor cover so that a 5/8 rod [axle] ran from front to rear. I attached a nylon cord to the rod , the other end to the top frame
[where the tailpiece anchors] A hand wheel is secured to the end of the shaft, and when you turn the wheel, it winds the cord, raising the headstock.
This has been in use many years, no problems. Any questions ?

loueg

Interesting solution. Pictures would be neat.

I created a new thread that links to the lift assist post above.

I hope the author does not mind.

IMHO it deserves its own thread.

http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthr ... post105201

billmayo wrote: I have available a free allen head bolt, star washers and nylock nut to replace the quadrant rollpin along with pictures and instructions including the way I set the High Speed adjustment before installing the Speed Control Assembly inside the headstock. Send me an Email at (annbill.mayo@comcast.net) if interested.

They showed up in the mail today - thank you again. That size number 10 bolt is not available anywhere locally where I live.

Now that the holidays are pretty much over, I've got some questions regarding the speed control. I purchased a new pork chop quadrant while maintaining the remainder of the control that came with the used SS. I did incorporate Bill Mayo's mod that replaces the quadrant pin with a small bolt with a nylock nut. I've attached 4 photos of the control after it was modified. I remounted it in the headstock without attaching the sheave to the quadrant.

When moving the speed control handle thru the speed range from Fast to Slow, more force is required in the mid-range portion of the travel. The mid-range seems be binding while the Fast and Slow regions seem to not require as much effort to turn (normal force, I would say).

I haven't used a SS in many years so I don't really know what to expect. I never saw the innards of my first SS so I don't know what the Speed Control rack and pinion should look like, especially how they are aligned when new. The gears don't seem to be aligned in this unit as shown in the attached photos. I thought maybe someone could look at this and tell me if the gear alignment looks "normal".

I hope this makes sense.

Thanks,
Bill:o

billparker wrote:Now that the holidays are pretty much over, I've got some questions regarding the speed control. I purchased a new pork chop quadrant while maintaining the remainder of the control that came with the used SS. I did incorporate Bill Mayo's mod that replaces the quadrant pin with a small bolt with a nylock nut. I've attached 4 photos of the control after it was modified. I remounted it in the headstock without attaching the sheave to the quadrant.

When moving the speed control handle thru the speed range from Fast to Slow, more force is required in the mid-range portion of the travel. The mid-range seems be binding while the Fast and Slow regions seem to not require as much effort to turn (normal force, I would say).

I haven't used a SS in many years so I don't really know what to expect. I never saw the innards of my first SS so I don't know what the Speed Control rack and pinion should look like, especially how they are aligned when new. The gears don't seem to be aligned in this unit as shown in the attached photos. I thought maybe someone could look at this and tell me if the gear alignment looks "normal".

I hope this makes sense.

Thanks,
Bill:o

The worm gear is slightly cocked(to the left in your pix). Actually it is the legs that are out of line.

A word of caution. The legs are easily broken if over stressed, so what follows must be done cautiously.

Remove the porkchop, secure the speed control in a vise so that the legs can be moved about 1/16" to the LEFT(corrected) as indicated in your pix. DO NOT try to move all at once. Gently pull them a small amount at a time. Make sure you do not slip and over bend them. Pull the rightmost leg first, then the other one the same amount. Ideally the porkchop will just barely fit between the legs. EDIT = looking again at your pix, the left leg looks like it is bent to the right.

I like to file the mating surfaces slightly just to true them up(flat).

If the legs are too far apart to begin with(the screw is pulling then together), a washer between the leg and porkchop will reposition the porkchop and may be preferable to attempting to bend the legs.

If there is a high spot where the porkchop binds against the worm gear, judicious filing of the worm gear teeth that are binding may help. <<<<< edit Quadrant gear teeth, NOT the Worm gear teeth

I had this problem with the last 'new' porkchop I installed. A very small amount of interference causes it to get stuck.

If the binding is slight, normal use will 'work it out'(the porkchop is soft and will coldflow(?) and relieve the binding over time).

P.S. I am referring to the last two pix re left/right positioning.