Shopsmith Forums

Will something like that work on my 520? I have replaced the stupid switch 2 times, and it is going out again. I know I would have to drill a hole for it. The one on my DC has gone out now, so now I am using my shop vac.

joedw00 wrote:Will something like that work on my 520? I have replaced the stupid switch 2 times, and it is going out again. I know I would have to drill a hole for it. The one on my DC has gone out now, so now I am using my shop vac.

Ignoring the 'mounting issue', yes.

joedw00 wrote:Will something like that work on my 520? I have replaced the stupid switch 2 times, and it is going out again. I know I would have to drill a hole for it. The one on my DC has gone out now, so now I am using my shop vac.

If you are buying the switches from Shopsmith, please let them hear your complaint. The switches may be defective.

If you are going to give up on that model switch in favor of a different one, I suggest that you leave an old switch installed while hot wiring across the switch and install the actual switch elsewhere - like a remote control (maybe even wireless).

OBJECTIVE: Don't hack up the headstock. Keep it original.

Now - first things first: how is the switch failing (open, short, broken, burned, what).

one reason to get the switch from Shopsmith is they give you full instructions on how to replace. If you are familiar with wiring this may be no benefit.

dusty wrote:If you are buying the switches from Shopsmith, please let them hear your complaint. The switches may be defective.

If you are going to give up on that model switch in favor of a different one, I suggest that you leave an old switch installed while hot wiring across the switch and install the actual switch elsewhere - like a remote control (maybe even wireless).

OBJECTIVE: Don't hack up the headstock. Keep it original.

Now - first things first: how is the switch failing (open, short, broken, burned, what).

Some time it will not turn on, after turning it on and off a few times it will start, them it gets to where it will not come on at all. The DC did the same thing and now it will not come at all. I like your idea of keeping it original. The switch in it now did not come from Shopsmith. When it quits I will switch the wires and get a little more use out of it like I did the last one. I use the switch a lot when turning.

Do you have a DPST switch and are you wired so that you are switching both the hot wire and the neutral (all four terminals being used)? If you are switching only the hot side (black), just move the wires to the unused terminals. If you are switching both wires, tie the neutrals (white) together and swich only the hot (black). If that doesn't work (you might be using the bad set of connections) switch the black wires to the other two terminals.

Reading this discussion has me wondering if there is an electrical issue prior to the tools that is creating an issue? Jim

joedw00 wrote:Some time it will not turn on, after turning it on and off a few times it will start, them it gets to where it will not come on at all. The DC did the same thing and now it will not come at all. I like your idea of keeping it original. The switch in it now did not come from Shopsmith. When it quits I will switch the wires and get a little more use out of it like I did the last one. I use the switch a lot when turning.

And what is the 'HP' rating of that non-ss switch?:rolleyes:

billmayo wrote:What JPG says is very true. This is the toggle switch I have used and recommended for years.

Heavy-duty Motor-rated Toggles DPST On-Off Toggle Switch - .250 flat terminals #7300001 $5.41 ea.

http://www.delcity.net/store/Heavy!duty ... 68.a_1.t_1

Bill,

Would this switch also work on my DYI Pro upgraded headstock? Just am not fond of the plastic switch provided with my upgrade kit.

Jack

claimdude wrote:Bill,

Would this switch also work on my DYI Pro upgraded headstock? Just am not fond of the plastic switch provided with my upgrade kit.

Jack

Which headstock? A,B or C? Round hole or rectangular?


Answer Yes 'or' No.