Page 2 of 2
Posted: Sun Jan 22, 2012 6:12 pm
by eagleta2
I just want tochime in here...for 20 years I lived with a screaming shop vac for dust collection...about 2 weeks ago I picked up a used grizzly 1 up dc. I upgraded to 2.5 micron top filter bag...and plastic collection bag. The dc came with a 30 gallon cyclone lid and I finally bought a can for it at the big box store. (got half off cuz it was crunched)
The bottom line is that even without a centralized system the performance is excellent. I should've Done it 20 years ago. Now using my miter saw without it feels "wrong"
You guys are slowly convincing me to centralize it...I just dunno if it will gave enough power since its only about 650 cfm...
The bottom line is if anyone else is reading this thread that hasn't gotten a dc yet....Do it now... You'll be glad u did!
Thanks for the inspiration guys!
Geo
Posted: Sun Jan 22, 2012 6:44 pm
by dusty
[quote="eagleta2"]I just want tochime in here...for 20 years I lived with a screaming shop vac for dust collection...about 2 weeks ago I picked up a used grizzly 1 up dc. I upgraded to 2.5 micron top filter bag...and plastic collection bag. The dc came with a 30 gallon cyclone lid and I finally bought a can for it at the big box store. (got half off cuz it was crunched)
The bottom line is that even without a centralized system the performance is excellent. I should've Done it 20 years ago. Now using my miter saw without it feels "wrong" ]
If it is adequate for one port, you can always install a duct system with ports on each line and then open only the port that you want to be active. Sorta like moving the hose here and there but you don't move anything.
Posted: Sun Jan 22, 2012 7:07 pm
by JPG
eagleta2 wrote:I just want tochime in here...for 20 years I lived with a screaming shop vac for dust collection...about 2 weeks ago I picked up a used grizzly 1 up dc. I upgraded to 2.5 micron top filter bag...and plastic collection bag. The dc came with a 30 gallon cyclone lid and I finally bought a can for it at the big box store. (got half off cuz it was crunched)
The bottom line is that even without a centralized system the performance is excellent. I should've Done it 20 years ago. Now using my miter saw without it feels "wrong" ] its only about 650 cfm.[/B]..
The bottom line is if anyone else is reading this thread that hasn't gotten a dc yet....Do it now... You'll be glad u did!
Thanks for the inspiration guys!
Geo
That is almost 2x a dc3300!;)
Posted: Sun Jan 22, 2012 7:58 pm
by mrhart
JPG40504 wrote:One thing that has been missing(or I missed it) is WHAT dc are you using?
If a SS dc3300, do not go over 3" diameter pipe.
If using one of those humongous HD or JET collectors with air flow to 'spare' then bigger is better.
Gotta maintain cf/m to keep particles suspended in the air flow.
IMHO PVC is easier to both work with and support. Ya can probably get by without glueing it so it could be 'modified' later. Duct tape(the real thing!) should seal the dry joints adequately.
Electrical pvc long elbows look like a good thing to me.
P.S. I think simpler is better. Unless you intend to be at more than one station at a time, a single inlet with a 20' hose to move to the 'active station' as needed. Getting into multiple inlets leads to separate short hoses and blast gates and multiple tees == $$ and decreased performance(static pressure drop).
DC3300
I would send you my little shop drawing, but I did it in an excel format one day and I can't copy and paste it without it looking all funky.
Posted: Sun Jan 22, 2012 9:16 pm
by JPG
mrhart wrote:DC3300
I would send you my little shop drawing, but I did it in an excel format one day and I can't copy and paste it without it looking all funky.
Can you print it, then scan it or take a pix of it?
Posted: Sun Jan 22, 2012 11:57 pm
by heathicus
JPG40504 wrote:Can you print it, then scan it or take a pix of it?
Or save it as a PDF and post that.
Posted: Fri Jan 27, 2012 11:57 am
by ccmaydew
I too have a DC3300. Using the ideas from the Hands On Video and modifying slightly, here is what I came up with. It works well.
3" Main duct that splits into 2" for each drop. Use the long turn 90's.
[ATTACH]15940[/ATTACH]
Ridgid Clean Shop Network down pipes and blast gates. I don't think Ridgid makes these anymore, but you can still find them on Craigslist and e-Bay.
[ATTACH]15941[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]15943[/ATTACH]
Rubber plumbing hose connectors to attach PVC to Clean Shop pipes and to the DC3300.
[ATTACH]15942[/ATTACH]
Hose to connect DC3300 came with the Ridgid Clean Shop Network.
[ATTACH]15944[/ATTACH]
Posted: Fri Jan 27, 2012 3:44 pm
by JPG
ccmaydew wrote:I too have a DC3300. Using the ideas from the Hands On Video and modifying slightly, here is what I came up with. It works well.
3" Main duct that splits into 2" for each drop. Use the long turn 90's.
[ATTACH]15940[/ATTACH]
Ridgid Clean Shop Network down pipes and blast gates. I don't think Ridgid makes these anymore, but you can still find them on Craigslist and e-Bay.
[ATTACH]15941[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]15943[/ATTACH]
Rubber plumbing hose connectors to attach PVC to Clean Shop pipes and to the DC3300.
[ATTACH]15942[/ATTACH]
Hose to connect DC3300 came with the Ridgid Clean Shop Network.
[ATTACH]15944[/ATTACH]
Cory
Good Job!!!!!!

:)
Posted: Fri Jan 27, 2012 4:10 pm
by mrhart
Does the hose directly out of the bottom collect and clog at all?
Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 12:13 am
by ccmaydew
It has only clogged once when I sucked up a paper towel. I'm careful not to suck up small cutoffs also.