Shopsmith Forums

Posted: **Tue Jan 17, 2012 10:28 am**

Am I actually reading you right Dusty, that you were trying to lower an insert onto a spinning blade?

Posted: **Tue Jan 17, 2012 10:45 am**

maybe silly, but why not use a jigsaw or fein multi-master type ocillating tool?

For the saw kerf it needs to be ZCI for sure, but for the slot that the splitter uses doesn't need to be fully ZC. Seems like the plunge capability of the oscillating tool would be perfect here.

Posted: **Tue Jan 17, 2012 10:49 am**

If you have a scroll saw handy, it's quick and easy to extend the slot to accomodate the upper saw guard. If you stack-cut them, you can do a bunch all at once.

Or drill overlapping holes and clean up the edges with a file.

Heck, you could even go low-tech and do it with a coping saw....

Gary

Posted: **Tue Jan 17, 2012 10:49 am**

dusty wrote:For a long time now I have been making my own zero clearance inserts (ZCI) for the Mark V. I have done this without incident until just the other day when I was attempting to extend the saw kerf to facilitate the Upper Saw Guard. It was then that something went wrong as I was lowering the ZCI back onto the blade to cut that area for the saw guard. The ZCI that I was working on was grabbed by the spinning blade and pulled out of my hands.

No damage, no injury except to the ZCI and my ego.

Never again. There has got to be a better, SAFER way to do this.

I think this might be the solution. Please comment. Let me know what you think.

[ATTACH]15818[/ATTACH]

What is not shown here is a method for securing the work piece into the cutout while the kerf is being cut and extended. I have not finalized my thoughts on that yet but I want to do this without spending money (no spring loaded hold down clamps which would work but there is an associated cost).

I have previously posted details for the ZCI. All I must do now is construct this sled to hold the ZCI.

This particular one was conceived for a 510/520 but the same concept could be used elsewhere.

Based on my other post (assuming you don't need to move the ZCI anymore), why not get some longer bolts that fit the table and then use a piece of scrap with holes to "clamp" the scrap and ZCI down? Clamps would work too, but the scrap would prevent chipout and the bolts would prevent the insert from flying away.

Posted: **Tue Jan 17, 2012 11:08 am**

Using the sled in you original post seems to me at least to be the safest approach to making a ZCI, Dusty. Any method for holding the ZCI blank to the sled that has been suggested already would be the best approach and using stops attached to the runners gives precise start and stop points for cutting the slot. All you need to do is secure the blank to the sled, position the sled to start the cut at the rear of the blank, lower the table through the ZCI, push the sled forward, and shut off the Shopsmith. You may want to use one of those Quick-Grip clamps to hold the sled in place while lowering the table into the blade since they can be released with one hand while you hold the sled in place before beginning the cut.

Posted: **Tue Jan 17, 2012 12:12 pm**

What about screwing a few washers to the underside of the runners to make use of the t-slot in the table?

Posted: **Tue Jan 17, 2012 12:58 pm**

dusty wrote:Actually, I intend to cut the original kerf back 2" and then push the sled back 2" to cut the extended kerf. Hope that makes sense.

Everyone has been thinking of how to do this with some type of power tool. How about using a hand saw!! Keyhole saw, rip saw or even a cross cut for this type of cut. The extra 2" can be made before even getting an electric saw plugged in.

Posted: **Tue Jan 17, 2012 1:22 pm**

charlese wrote:Everyone has been thinking of how to do this with some type of power tool. How about using a hand saw!! Keyhole saw, rip saw or even a cross cut for this type of cut. The extra 2" can be made before even getting an electric saw plugged in.

But where's the fun in that?

Posted: **Tue Jan 17, 2012 1:34 pm**

charlese wrote:Everyone has been thinking of how to do this with some type of power tool. How about using a hand saw!! Keyhole saw, rip saw or even a cross cut for this type of cut. The extra 2" can be made before even getting an electric saw plugged in.

I can't agree more. I always keep the following hand tools handy.

Hand saws - cross cut, flush trim, coping, keyhole. I can often get the cut done faster with less hassle.
Bench chisels - trimming with a sharp chisel is often the simplest solution.
Low angle Block Plane - kept sharp and always on hand.

And the best part, they are all cordless and the batteries never wear out.

Posted: **Tue Jan 17, 2012 1:52 pm**

terrydowning wrote:I can't agree more. I always keep the following hand tools handy.

Hand saws - cross cut, flush trim, coping, keyhole. I can often get the cut done faster with less hassle.
Bench chisels - trimming with a sharp chisel is often the simplest solution.
Low angle Block Plane - kept sharp and always on hand.

And the best part, they are all cordless and the batteries never wear out.

Which spindle do those accessories attach to?

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