Actually Al, JPG is right. It is just a tight fit, not so tight it distorts anything but tight enough to require a little force to snap it down. Then with the tables pulled up against it, it's solid as a rock.
Paul M ........ The early bird gets the worm but the second mouse gets the cheese
algale wrote:Paul will have the last word but studying the photos I believe he slightly undersized the cut to accommodate the tube and then put a kerf or split allowing it to expand around the tube and snap or click into position around the tube. The kerf or split is drilled at the end to prevent it from splitting further?
That's my guess.
The back edge is a groove that slips over the rear tube and is held in all but the rear direction.
The 'click' occurs when lowering the front edge on to the front tube. The front edge then prevents motion towards the front.
KISS - Love it!!! But then considering the 'author', it is elegant in it's simplicity!
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
I have been looking for a similar way to adapt a router table to my Mark520 and I think I like this idea very much ...
Would it work the same way even with the pro fence ?
I would think so ...
shipwright wrote:This is another little upgrade to my Az shop.
At home I have become used to having my router lift on the extension table of my Unisaw. The big advantage is of course saving in space and the ability to use the unifence.
After a bit of thought I came up with this little setup. Its advantages are small size, ability to use the table saw fence, dust collection and a solid base that doesn’t take up extra space.
[ATTACH]16039[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]16040[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]16041[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]16042[/ATTACH]
The design allows the table to be hooked on the back table support tube and then pivoted down to a “click” friction fit against the front tube. There is no need for any kind of lock. It fits flush with the table and accepts my DC hose via a clamp on extension to the fence.
Hope someone else can use this idea.
Paul M
Paul,
I've been searching for something like this for months! Please, post more pictures so I can copy your idea in it's entirety! It looks like you've added a strip of wood to the "front" and "back" of the table - did you just use a few long screws to prevent sagging at those joints? Thanks for saving me at least $200 (I was going to buy a folding, benchtop table).
What is the red plate? Manufacture, material and approx size?
Did you fit the circular clear router base into it or did it come this way?
The "red plate" is just the bottom of the dadoed out area painted red.
The clear base is a square piece of 3/16" plexiglas that I had around. If I were going out and buying material for this I would get 1/4" lexan. It is screwed on the router body in place of the round factory base. The 3/4" pw table is dadoed (above) to seat the plexiglas flush.
Paul M
Paul M ........ The early bird gets the worm but the second mouse gets the cheese
Jeff, I'll take some more photos later. Gotta go right now. The strips of solid wood are to keep the infeed and outfeed ends from splintering as plywood sometimes does on a corner. (That's my official story anyway. The real reason is that I dadoed the wrong side of the plywood for the table support tubes the first time and rather than start over I just filled them with solid Oak.)
Paul M ........ The early bird gets the worm but the second mouse gets the cheese
