Shopsmith Forums

I replaced the switch and cord as well- no luck

I'll sell you my 3/4 motor, I'm not to far, so the shipping is reasonable.
I'll PM you the price.
Robert

wiredone wrote:Is it my imagination or is the coil spring for the sheaves heavier on the 3/4 motors than the later 1.25 models?

Something did change after those early units. The later type springs have included the word "Improved" in the parts-descriptor sometimes. There may have been a deliberate change in spring-type to influence the speed-control effort or the overall vibration tendencies of the system.

gogreenwave wrote:Hi everyone, thanks for all the comments. I am pretty sure the motor is dead, I had the bearings replaced at an electrical shop, and I set it on my workbench and it ran great, but as soon as put it back in the headstock and under a load, it started smoking a lot and really had a strong burnt smell. Matt

If someone got paid to "rebuild" the motor with new bearings and it crapped out, I'd be going back to them for a "do-over" or a refund.

fiatben wrote:If someone got paid to "rebuild" the motor with new bearings and it crapped out, I'd be going back to them for a "do-over" or a refund.

That's too wierd. When I first got my Greenie a few months back, I bench tested the motor and it seemed fine. As soon as I put the headstock topgether it did exactly the same thing as gogreenwaves motor, so it went into the scrap pile.
The other day (as I said earlier) I pulled it out and hooked it up with no switch and it ran fine.
I guess I'll not assume anything at this point until I can see it under load again.

wiredone wrote:That's too wierd. When I first got my Greenie a few months back, I bench tested the motor and it seemed fine. As soon as I put the headstock topgether it did exactly the same thing as gogreenwaves motor, so it went into the scrap pile.
The other day (as I said earlier) I pulled it out and hooked it up with no switch and it ran fine.
I guess I'll not assume anything at this point until I can see it under load again.

I would look for two things: Start switch/start relay points welded(causing the start winding to remain connected after startup) and a wire positioned where it may short against something(moving parts especially).

GGW I would hope the 'electrical shop' had a proper understanding of how the GE motor with start relay operates. If it was not connected properly(or one of the wires to the relay got bumped loose) it would have acted similarly. Question I have is: how long did you run it on the bench?

One other scenario: If the start relay were lacking sensitivity, then when under load the rpm's may drop enough so that the start winding is not 'generating' sufficient voltage to keep the start relay 'picked' and the start winding was being again 'turned on'.

Finally something preventing the relay from picking(mechanically stuck).