Shopsmith Forums

You're right, it is a 1955 Greenie! Don't know how I missed that.

Having trouble removing the rear way tube. The front one came right out without too much of a problem. The rear way tube doesn't want to budge. Any tricks or hints?

I haven't tried to remove the bench tubes yet. Hope all goes well with those.

beeg,

I did spread the spring near the sheave but didn't see any hole. I didn't spend very much time here though. I'll do a further inspection tomorrow.

Any ideas of how to get the rear way tube loose? Hopefully I'm missing something that's very easy. The front tube came right out, but the rear one won't budge.

Spray, soak, wiggle wiggle wiggle, pull. - repeat

Don't know how I missed it, but the set screws seemed a bit hidden from sight. I didn't release them. One of them was already loose because the front way tube came right out without any problem.

I'll release the rear set screw and make sure the front set screw is actually there. I haven't done it yet, but wouldn't it take an extremely long allen wrench to loosen the screws there?

Thanks again to all!

serendipity wrote:Don't know how I missed it, but the set screws seemed a bit hidden from sight. I didn't release them. One of them was already loose because the front way tube came right out without any problem.

I'll release the rear set screw and make sure the front set screw is actually there. I haven't done it yet, but wouldn't it take an extremely long allen wrench to loosen the screws there?

Thanks again to all!

The SS tool kit is long enough! The one used everywhere(almost) else!;)

Thanks! The allen wrench in the tool set was long enough and all went well.

I have the Greenie just about all apart. The only hold up is trying to get the Base Arm Pin removed from the Base and Base Arm. I removed the Rollpin and started to tap the Base Arm Pin. It moved about an inch and a half, but no more. I don't want to tap so hard that it cracks the casting. I set it aside soaked with penetrating oil. Hope this helps.

I'm just about ready to get parts bead blasted and powder coated. As this is being accomplished, I'll start cleaning and polishing. I saw some photos of the various restored Shopsmiths and they're awesome. That's my motivation.

serendipity wrote:Thanks! The allen wrench in the tool set was long enough and all went well.

I have the Greenie just about all apart. The only hold up is trying to get the Base Arm Pin removed from the Base and Base Arm. I removed the Rollpin and started to tap the Base Arm Pin. It moved about an inch and a half, but no more. I don't want to tap so hard that it cracks the casting. I set it aside soaked with penetrating oil. Hope this helps.

I'm just about ready to get parts bead blasted and powder coated. As this is being accomplished, I'll start cleaning and polishing. I saw some photos of the various restored Shopsmiths and they're awesome. That's my motivation.

Have you tried tapping it out the opposite direction?

Thanks, I'll try that. Hopefully it'll work.

I just saw a post about using Penetrol for unprotected bare metal. It's something I'm going to use. It sounds like some great stuff. I do have a question:

Does Penetrol dry like a coating of lacquer or some other clear finish, or does it leave a microscopic liquid coating?

serendipity wrote:Thanks, I'll try that. Hopefully it'll work.

I just saw a post about using Penetrol for unprotected bare metal. It's something I'm going to use. It sounds like some great stuff. I do have a question:

Does Penetrol dry like a coating of lacquer or some other clear finish, or does it leave a microscopic liquid coating?

Dry? Sticky comes to mind. I would only use it as a storage rust preventative. JPW for surfaces in use!;) JMHO