54 Greenie Restore

[mrhart]

So the insructions say "remove retaining ring and slide out". Thats not working out for me. What am I missing?

[ATTACH]16241[/ATTACH]

Things seem pretty smooth in relation to the bearings, should I replace or just clean everyhting up? I'm guessing they were done with the motor and like I said, everything is pretty tidy in here. Not at all like a 93 chevy 350.

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[ATTACH]16243[/ATTACH]

My parts boxes are full, I guess the elbow greese time is next, and some parts ordering
2-wedges
1-speed dial or fix the original
1-lower belt ? (gilmer belt "looks ok")

[ATTACH]16244[/ATTACH]

[mrhart]

Here's a way to get your speed dial repaired.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HOP-MITH-MARK-V-PEED-CONTROL-KNOB-REPAIR-FREE-HIP-NEW-LOW-PRICE-/220940417862?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3371133b46

Is this guy ok to order from? Has anyone had theirs redone or should I pony up for the real thing?

[beeg]

Do ya have the old gilmer belt off? If so I'd replace it now and be done with it. About the ebay seller, he has 100% Positive feedback. That's all I know.

[jcraigie]

So the insructions say "remove retaining ring and slide out". Thats not working out for me. What am I missing? It's looks like you have the retainer out, is that right? If so, Use a long block of wood from the other end and TAP it out.

[ATTACH]16241[/ATTACH]

Things seem pretty smooth in relation to the bearings, should I replace or just clean everyhting up? I'm guessing they were done with the motor and like I said, everything is pretty tidy in here. Not at all like a 93 chevy 350.

[ATTACH]16242[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]16243[/ATTACH]

My parts boxes are full, I guess the elbow greese time is next, and some parts ordering
2-wedges
1-speed dial or fix the original
1-lower belt ? (gilmer belt "looks ok")

[ATTACH]16244[/ATTACH]

If you want to put a clutch in give Bill Mayo a jingle last time ai talked to him he had a couple of rebuilt ones.

[jcraigie]

Is this guy ok to order from? Has anyone had theirs redone or should I pony up for the real thing?

If I needed one I think I would go with this guy. I want to support ShopSmith but I like the way he does it with steel instead of aluminum.

[JPG]

If I needed one I think I would go with this guy. I want to support ShopSmith but I like the way he does it with steel instead of aluminum.

Do not be concerned. You will have a rebuilt one in less than a week. Once you 'buy', he will send you an e-mail with his mailing address and suggested method of shipping to him(1st class < $3). When he gets yours, he will turn around and send a rebuilt one to you the same way(1st class).

The aluminum cast gearing is a weak link. This eliminates that. Consider that all it does is rotate the indicator dial. Improper meshing when mounting the dial is IMHO the reason damage occurs. That and not getting the crank on fully and aligned properly.

P.S. That main bearing is not going to jump out just because you removed the retaining ring. You need to push from the inside. It will probably be reluctant to move. Gentle tapping should get it started. That is two bearings on a single shaft and bore. The bearings can get cocked if straight line force is not used. Nick used the quill as a press by placing a block between the end of the splined quill shaft and the splined center of the main shaft.

[billmayo]

So the insructions say "remove retaining ring and slide out". Thats not working out for me. What am I missing?

[ATTACH]16241[/ATTACH]

Things seem pretty smooth in relation to the bearings, should I replace or just clean everyhting up? I'm guessing they were done with the motor and like I said, everything is pretty tidy in here. Not at all like a 93 chevy 350.

[ATTACH]16242[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]16243[/ATTACH]

My parts boxes are full, I guess the elbow greese time is next, and some parts ordering
2-wedges
1-speed dial or fix the original
1-lower belt ? (gilmer belt "looks ok")

[ATTACH]16244[/ATTACH]

Use a small flat blade screwdriver (4") and slide it around the inside headstock drive sleeve hole. There is tang on the retainer ring that you have to hook and pry out and up and then your rotate the screwdriver slighty to where your fingers can remove the retainer ring. I takes me many tries some times to hook and lift the tang to where I can remove the retainer ring. I never remove the back inside drive sleeve retainer ring.

I use a 18" 1/2" rebar with the tips ground down to remove the drive sleeve. Many times the inner bearing will hang in the outter bearing bore and stay in the headstock as you drive (large hammer) the drive sleeve out of the headstock. Then the bearing can be tapped back into the headstock. Be sure to clean and gently remove any sharp edges or scratches in the headstock bore.

[wannabewoodworker]

And be very gentle trying to "hammer" the drive bearing assembly out. If it gets cocked at all you will break the main headstock casting. Ask me how I know this? That will cost you about $60-70 from another Ebayer to get a bare headstock casting to replace the one you just broke......again ask me how i know this? And I had done 2 others before this one decided to humble me.

[mrhart]

Speed dial will come from the e-bay guy. Steel and the price seem to be the way to go. Hopefully the new one will "look" as good as mine. Maybe I'll tell him just to redo mine-shipping time is ok to wait a few extra days.

I will apply the suggestions tonight and get that bearing-shaft out.

I was holding the Quill assembley last night and there was a little wobble when I wiggled the shaft. Would that be normal or should it be rock solid?? I removed the set screw and slid it out--1 bearing.

I used some scoth bright pads-green-gray-white and shined up the holes in the headstock and a few other things. Those work really well, green is course and doesn't seem to scratch anything- the gray is a little finer but they do well. Are these ok to use on all surfaces?

[holsgo]

The shaft does wiggle in a single bearing quill.