Shopsmith Forums

I brought and remodeled/updated a 1952 home (no AC). We have to install all new electrical upgrades including up to where the power line hooked to the house. We requested an upgrade to the power wires as they were less than half the size we had going to the main panel but the power company refused. The power company disconnected and rehooked the existing power line cables. About 3 months later, The power leads coming to house melted and shorted (exciting time), blowing the transformer and cutting the power cable to the house thus requiring a lot of clean-up work, a new transformer and heavier lead in cables. Our electrical side showed no damage.

I have a large amp box in my shop equiped with 24 breaker locations. Cheapest box (contractor with some breakers) I found at a big box store. Check locations as this box was about the same price as some 30 amp breaker boxes at the same store. Each 20 amp outlet (12 ga wire) has its own breaker plus 3 different wiring circuits. I do not believe you can have too many breaker locations in the shop panel. Much easier to add breakers than buying a new box equipped with more breaker locations and rerunning heavier lead in cables. Not sure if most electrical codes will allow adding an additional breaker box to the existing one using existing lead in cables.

JPG40504 wrote:That mean ALL 20A appliances, or just 'fixed' ones or ones with a 'dedicated' branch?

In any event, tis a bad idea!

I was going to suggest a smaller sub-panel, but Beeg's suggestion may even be cheaper(100A boxes are more prevalent) Only cost increase would be breaker size and wire size and any installation differences.

Tis easier($$$) to add breakers etc. than to replace a panel(and wiring...) later.

P.S. 100A does seem a bit much for 120 ft².

I did not say 20A appliances, rather 220v appliances. A 220v range requires a dedicated circuit; a 220v dryer requires a dedicated circuit; etc. A 20a appliance, such as a dishwasher, a microwave oven, etc., wood normally require a dedicated circuit also, though.

If a ShopSmith unit is wired for 220v, it needs to be on a dedicted circuit. I recommend that a ShopSmith always be plugged into a dedicated circuit; however, a ShopSmith wired for 110v can be used on a branch circuit, but if it is a 15a circuit, I wood recommend that at the very least it is not operated simultaneously with other appliances on the same circuit.

I definately am not an electrician, just know some basics. My SS will trip a standard garage outlet with just some lights and a refrigerator on, very frequntly. Especially when the DC is on as well. My home wiring is ony 15 years old. But, if I plug it in to the dedicated 110 outlet (there for a freezer-but don't have one) I have no issues and all is well.
I definately reccommend a dedicated 20amp just for your SS especially if you have your DC thrown in the mix.

My little shop is just shy of 500 square feet. I have six 20 amp breakers One is for an Attic fan. five are for outlets. Two on the ceiling are dedicated for my Mark 7 and 50th anniversary 520 (I am only one here and never run both at same time). The rest are on shop walls for other tools. The lights are florescent and on a separate breaker. Our electrical was drawn up by the architect and and engineer. The county inspectors approved the plan and then changed their mind in the eleventh hour after construction was complete. Thus we spent nearly 2,000 extra for a major service upgrade. I was mad as a mud hen at the time and thankful today. In final analysis the adequate electrical service is a blessing. Jim

PS regarding my posting of email address. Given how public my website is and how easy it is to Google me, I gave up long ago trying to hide it, plus it will be changed before long.

Thanks for the comments!

[quote="a1gutterman"]I did not say 20A appliances, rather 220v appliances. A 220v range requires a dedicated circuit]

I don't disagree that a Shopsmith should be operated on a dedicated circuit; however, a fully functional Mark V and a DC3000 should operate compatibly on a standard 15 amp circuit if the Mark V is turned on and operating at speed BEFORE the DC is turned on. If they do not, the 15 amp circuit is suspect.

Extension cords should be avoided. All bets are off if you use extension cords.

I believe that many of the issues that users have with 15 amp circuits are the result of them not knowing what other devises draw power from that same circuit.

[quote="dusty"]I don't disagree that a Shopsmith should be operated on a dedicated circuit]

I agree wholeheartedly with Dusty, in fact my DC3300 operate on same circuit as the Mark 7 or Mark V. Jim

You might consider a heat/ Air conditioning thru wall unit, similar to what you see in hotel rooms. One advantage is you will have both the heat and A/C in one unit, saving valuable wall space in the small shop. The downside is if the heat or the A/C fails you will need to have it repaired or replaced whereas with seperate units you would only repair or replace the failed unit.
Also, I STRONGLY agree with the 100 amp panel - this will allow you to easily add or move things as needed, even outside of the shop (landscape lighting, outlets, spot/flood lights, etc.) My shop started at at 400 sq ft and is now 1600 sq ft. I have 200 amp service, and gas radiant tube heaters (14' ceiling) and can honestly say I have never regretted the 200 amp service. Over the years I have added A/C, a Bridgeport mill, South Bend lathe, even a drive on lift for working on my cars (which is also very nice for some larger woodworking projects)
You never know what tomorrow will bring, be prepared! I'd bet you won't regret the added $100 - $200 investment in the panel now, even if you never change anything down the road.

meathook wrote:You might consider a heat/ Air conditioning thru wall unit, similar to what you see in hotel rooms. One advantage is you will have both the heat and A/C in one unit, saving valuable wall space in the small shop. The downside is if the heat or the A/C fails you will need to have it repaired or replaced whereas with seperate units you would only repair or replace the failed unit.
Also, I STRONGLY agree with the 100 amp panel - this will allow you to easily add or move things as needed, even outside of the shop (landscape lighting, outlets, spot/flood lights, etc.) My shop started at at 400 sq ft and is now 1600 sq ft. I have 200 amp service, and gas radiant tube heaters (14' ceiling) and can honestly say I have never regretted the 200 amp service. Over the years I have added A/C, a Bridgeport mill, South Bend lathe, even a drive on lift for working on my cars (which is also very nice for some larger woodworking projects)
You never know what tomorrow will bring, be prepared! I'd bet you won't regret the added $100 - $200 investment in the panel now, even if you never change anything down the road.

Since I did my own electric wiring for the shop, I have 200 AMP panel with 24 breaker slots but only 75 AMP service coming from the main house. Nine breaker slots each services a single 20 AMP outlet, Ten breakers slots services five 220 VAC outlets along with 3 15 AMP lighting circuits leaving me with 2 breaker slots for the future.

I have a window AC unit mount through the wall for cooling my past 3 shops. Currently I have a 21,000 BTU 220 VAC AC with the frame mounted high in the wall and under the roof overhang to help kept the sun off the outside coils. Easy to change the AC filter and remove the AC unit from the frame if servicing is needed. I use two upright oil filled radiator type heaters on casters for winter heating. This keeps my 24 X 24 shop building with no ceiling insulation very confortable year round. Less than $500 invested for the cooling and heating installation cost.

Rewiring ideas: more than 1 lighting circuit, so that a tripped breaker doesn't leave you in complete darkness; wall outlets about 40" off the floor for convenience; 1 outside outlet for sanding and lawn trimmer; entrance light.