Shopsmith Forums

Hi everyone...
I watched the video attached and must admit that I am more guilty than anyone in regards to running my ss with no upper guard and no riving knife.

Just tonight I was cutting tapers for a pen blank...I was using the ss taper guide, but I know I was closer to the unguarded blade than I should've been.

After watching this video...I'm definitely going to use my guards from now on.

I'm glad he wasn't injured...but part of me wants to thank this moron for showing me the error of my ways. I knew better...

Thanks
Geo

Hi everyone...
I watched the video attached and must admit that I am more guilty than anyone in regards to running my ss with no upper guard and no riving knife.

Just tonight I was cutting tapers for a pen blank...I was using the ss taper guide, but I know I was closer to the unguarded blade than I should've been.

After watching this video...I'm definitely going to use my guards from now on.

I'm glad he wasn't injured...but part of me wants to thank this moron for showing me the error of my ways. I knew better...

Thanks
Geo

Boy, if watching that video doesn't give you a queasy feeling in the pit of your stomach (and make you use the proper guards) nothing will.

I learned my lesson about 25 years ago. I was ripping a full 3/4" thick oak board for my daughters hope chest without a blade guard/riving knife. Unlike this example the wood I was cutting was over 5 feet long and approx 8 inches wide.

Somehow kickback occurred and shoot this board back. It flew approx 20 feet and went through a dry wall wall. Hit a 2x4 stud in the wall and gouged it and bounced back about half way back to the Shopsmith.

Learned two things that day. One never never never cut without a riving knife and.. Two Shopsmith has all the power I need.

Thankfully I was taught saw usage and was standing well aside of the wood. However I did manage kickback one other time and this time even though I was well to the side of the blade the wood hit me square in the rib cage.

That one took me to my knees! I sported a very colorful bruise for about 3 weeks. My whole rib cage area looked like someone took a ball bat to me.

I may still do stupid things but I don't make saw cuts with out a riving knife in place.

One thing is for sure, I will not intentionally push a workpiece into the backside of a revolving circular saw blade while ripping with the fence!

I never liked ripping with a RAS! Climb cutting a cross cut is bad enough!:eek:

Just do not install the guard and say "OK, I'm safe now"...


.

Enlighten a new guy. Do you use the saw guard when doing a 45 bevel cut, or do you use a riving knife? What about dadoing and Zero Clearance Inserts?

In one of the Sawdust Sessions it is pointed out that past about 30 degrees on a bevel cut with the tilted table the standard upper blade guard will kind of fall down into the blade. I have not tried it. The new(ish) riving knife would certainly provide kickback protection without the blade guard.

You cannot use the standard upper saw guard when making a dado. Again the riving knife solves that problem.

algale wrote:In one of the Sawdust Sessions it is pointed out that past about 30 degrees on a bevel cut with the tilted table the standard upper blade guard will kind of fall down into the blade. I have not tried it. The new(ish) riving knife would certainly provide kickback protection without the blade guard.

You cannot use the standard upper saw guard when making a dado. Again the riving knife solves that problem.

You can leave the new riving knife installed while doing a dado (non-thru cut) but it does nothing for you. Your work piece can still be skewed to the side.

If anyone reading this has the new riving knife, please measure it's thickness and post that here. I made a riving knife long ago but I don't think it is thick enough. If my home brew is too thin, I am going to purchase one

The shark guard ones are 0.090, or 0.105 (inches i think).