Remotes for your DC

[dusty]

Wouldn't this be more convenient?

http://www.amazon.com/i-socket-110m-Tool-Vacuum-Switch/dp/B001BSL1BM/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

I'd need to do some research but yes, that would work well.

My issue is really onle that I often find it awkward to reach the switch while I still have a work piece on the table. Reaching under that work piece has caused me to somewhat loose control while the saw is still running.

I have used a foot pedal on/off and that works but is not a perfect solution.

I have wired a switch into a box mounted on the front rail and that works (and I still use it occasionally) but it is clumsy. Poor mechanical design.

A wireless remote (if I can find a perfect mounting solution) now sounds like my solution. The actual control box can be mounted on the Shopsmith.

I guess the only way I'll know now is go spend some money and try it. My sweet wife says I fuss too much about these little things. Self adhesive velcro strips would probably suit her. Hmmm, that just might work. Put a piece of velcro everywhere that you might want a switch (table saw, drill press, lathe, sander) and one on the remote.

Now, find a 20amp switch box.

[pennview]

Dusty, I'm not exactly sure what you mean by a "wireless remote" but if that's an electronic switch like a garage door opener that turns the Shopsmith ON or OFF, I wouldn't do it. Better to use some sort of mechanical switch. I'd be really afraid that some spurious signal would start the Shopsmith just as I was installing a saw blade or something and that it's just an accident waiting to happen.

[robinson46176]

The best saw switch I ever used was the one I had in the farm shop where the switch was over my head (mounted on a low loft joist) where as I finished a cut all I had to do was reach up and slap it. That saw was definitely stationary so the switch was always in the same place in relation to the saw. That is a little harder now since this saw is on wheels and I tend to move it from here to there a lot. Often I just pivot it slightly to another angle but even that can be a big change to the relationship between the saw and any ceiling mounted switch. I now just use the factory switch on this saw (nice paddle switch) but its location is a compromise.

One thought I have had is to install a guard system something like this and mount the switch on a bracket extending to the front above and to the right about a foot of the blade.
[ATTACH]16478[/ATTACH]


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[bffulgham]

I picked up a couple of these from Rockler a couple of years ago when they were on sale. Mounted this one on my modified SS router table and absolutely love it
[ATTACH]16481[/ATTACH]
My intent was/is to use the second one to mount on the front rail of my 510. They say it is a 15 amp switch.

Just did a quick look at Rockler.....it's on 'sale' today
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17401&site=ROCKLER

[fjimp]

For the DC3300 I have a switch mounted on the Dust Collector which is controlled by two remotes. One is mounted with Velcro to the top of the Power Pro. The other is mounted with Velcro on a tool at the other end of my shop. They are occasionally moved as need arises. I purchased a pre pack of small Velcro patches at Michaels. Jim

[pennview]

One way to make a remote "off" switch for the Shopsmith using a switch like Bud's would be to mount the switch on the top of a post made out of a 4x4. Place the switch horizontally on top of the post so that when you press the off or on buttons you aren't tipping over the post, rather you're pressing down on the switch. Add 4 feet at the bottom of the post for stability. The feet could be made of one foot pieces of 2x4, screwing each foot to one face of the 4x4. You could position the post wherever you wanted it and simply plug the Shopsmith power cord into the switch.

[fjimp]

One way to make a remote "off" switch for the Shopsmith using a switch like Bud's would be to mount the switch on the top of a post made out of a 4x4. Place the switch horizontally on top of the post so that when you press the off or on buttons you aren't tipping over the post, rather you're pressing down on the switch. Add 4 feet at the bottom of the post for stability. The feet could be made of one foot pieces of 2x4, screwing each foot to one face of the 4x4. You could position the post wherever you wanted it and simply plug the Shopsmith power cord into the switch.

Ah yes this reminds me of a Mountain Lodge we stayed at once. High ceilings with fans. The employees had rings on the bottom of the control chains and reached up with long poles and tried to hook the rings. One guy became very upset when we were all placing bets on how many tries before successfully hooking the ring. Jim

[Ron309753]

Wouldn't this be more convenient?

http://www.amazon.com/i-socket-110m-Too ... roduct_top

That one is good for handheld power tools, but for a DC and a Shopsmith this one allows you two put them on different curcuits, but with 12 Amp circuit breakers, I'm not sure it would work.
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/208016 ... witch.aspx

Sincerely,

Ron309753

[ryanbp01]

Here's a few for you guys that have a 2hp or smaller.


http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00008X5D5/ref ... pe_vfe_dt3

I have one that I found at an after Christmas sale a few years ago. It's rated at 15 amps. My DC only pulls 14 on start up.

FWIW, This is the one I purchased from Shopsmith.

BPR

[robinson46176]

Dusty, I'm not exactly sure what you mean by a "wireless remote" but if that's an electronic switch like a garage door opener that turns the Shopsmith ON or OFF, I wouldn't do it. Better to use some sort of mechanical switch. I'd be really afraid that some spurious signal would start the Shopsmith just as I was installing a saw blade or something and that it's just an accident waiting to happen.

I have not personally tried it but I have often read that if you start driving through a large housing development pushing the button on your garage door opener remote that eventually you will open a door...


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