Shopsmith Forums

Replace the saw blade with a sanding disk or just a faceplate, and while manually turning the disk with the power off, turn speed control slowly to lower speed position.

ahhh. ok. will try later on. got a busy day ahead. Might have to wait til Sunday.

2rr2nv wrote:I thought we weren't supposed to change speed when off? I can't change speed before it pops the breaker...

Put the sanding disk on and rotate the quill shaft by hand as you slowly adjust the speed. Then take the disk off and try to start again.

well, I turned on a heater to blow air at the head stock. turned it manually to a lil bit lower speed and fired it up. it's maybe 25 in the garage, but figured maybe some heat might help. well, it spun up just fine. I did notice though, that while i turned the speed down manually, that the belt would get tighter and looser in spots without even turning the dial. wonder if the belt is actually the problem. anyways, I ran a few boards thru after running it up and down the speeds a few times. on the fourth board, it popped the breaker. so I gave up for the night since it's supper time. hungry guy over here.

Check the motor belt sides for bulging(at the splice?).

If it's running then running in to problems then it could be that you have a dull blade, wrong blade, misalignment, twisted wood and oh so many other things going on.

You might want to check out the whole set up before going on. Keep in mind that you can cut at a lower speed(slower rpm) with slower feed rate which gives the machine a slight torque advantage.

Ed

well, the blade is brand spanking new cause the blade that came with it, looked like it sat out in the mud for 50 years.
it could be the wood, i guess, since it is pallet wood. nails were removed beforehand. hmmm, more playing with it I guess.

OH Boy...... one of my favorite topics, pallet wood. It is really only good for one thing pallets, not for anything else. It gets chemicals spilled on it, it sets in loading docks with nasty stuff, some of them are treated to prevent rot or insect damage. What is soaked in who knows, but then there is the dirt and grime and collected dust and things which can mean a new blade cutting a foot of this stuff could well be dull already.............

I know I will not ever ever use it for any projects much less do any wood working with it. Who knows what is in that dust after cutting?????

I know people think of it as free wood or almost free wood but how much is your health worth?

Part with that pallet material and buy some real wood.

Ed

Are you using a extension cord ?

If so try plugging it in directly to the wall.

Or a heavier conductor cord.

I have used my'n in temps around 32 .

You may also have dry bearings .

With out being there all we can really do is give you ideas.

You also may have too many things on that circuit running , try turning off any thing else on that circuit.

Hobbyman2

reible wrote:OH Boy...... one of my favorite topics, pallet wood. It is really only good for one thing pallets, not for anything else. It gets chemicals spilled on it, it sets in loading docks with nasty stuff, some of them are treated to prevent rot or insect damage. What is soaked in who knows, but then there is the dirt and grime and collected dust and things which can mean a new blade cutting a foot of this stuff could well be dull already.............

I know I will not ever ever use it for any projects much less do any wood working with it. Who knows what is in that dust after cutting?????

I know people think of it as free wood or almost free wood but how much is your health worth?

Part with that pallet material and buy some real wood.

Ed

====================

I second that .

Since I started using air dried wood,,,,, I am spoiled.

My blades seem to last longer.



Handyman2