Noisey Power Pro Headstock

[Chad]

So, what made you decide to stay with the two bearing quill for your replacement?

Chad - Are you an advocate for the single bearing quill as a replacement? I'd be very interested in whether anyone has looked into that objectively. The guy on the videos you posted earlier in this thread lost me with the assertion that the roll pin on a two piece spindle prevented removal of the inner bearing. That's pretty much the opposite of what Jacob A says, and which I've confirmed myself. I don't currently doubt that the single bearings are less likely to bend, but I'm skeptical of the rationale. In any case, how does one weigh the anti-bend qualities (if true) of the single bearing against the advantages of the two bearing?

- David

No sir. I'm not advocating for any quill over another. I knew the single bearing quill was an option. I can see how the single bearing quill would be less likely to bend over any of the revisions of the two bearing quill. As for a quill getting bent on the outside end of the headstock (the tapered flat portion), well that could occur with any Shopsmith quill. Whether you are turning a large heavy piece on the lathe, or a chisel gets caught in a workpiece. I also believe those possibilities could occur with a conventional headstock, and a Power Pro headstock with the DVR motor that will stall out much sooner than a conventional motor. I suspect, and I am only guessing here; that any version of the two bearing quill is more likely to bend on the tapered flat portion because of a possible change in material of the shaft, or perhaps a different heat treating process. Which in turn could cause the possibility of a quill to get bent in any spot along the shaft much easier than the older single bearing quill. I can understand the huge advantages of having two bearings on the quill for more stability, and less bearing wear. My main concern is the design of the two bearing quill, which clearly has had some "teething problems" over the years. Being than Shopsmith is now on what, revision level 3 of the two bearing quill?

[Chad]

Can I ask what James charged for a used single bearing?

If we are voting, I vote you test the two-bearing from SS. I'd like to know if it solves your noise concern.

Not sure I'm understanding the problem installing the single bearing quill. My only single bearing experience is Gilmer, and this is the part that differs. I thought the single-bearing and two-bearing quills were the same where they engage the drive, and should work with the same drive and ring. I know you can't see in there with a PowerPro, is it possible you are trying to put it together with two drive and rings? Normally the drive and ring attaches to the Drive Sleeve Assembly (sometimes called Upper Drive) and the quill spindle just slips into it. It should not come out or go in with the Quill Assembly. If James sent you another one, it ought to be a spare. (I think he does this because they don't last as long with the single bearing quill.)

- David

I also am curious of how much James is charging for a refurbished single bearing quill.

I also agree with David. I would test the new two bearing quill from Shopsmith 1st. I would want to see if it solves your noise and vibration problems. The new two bearing quill might do all of that, and act as a control if you wanted to go further with testing the single bearing quill.

I too don't understand the problem your having Hal with installing the single bearing quill in your headstock. Interesting. I wouldn't force it either. So with the single bearing quill you got from James; he also sent you a new drive and ring? An identically matched drive and ring to the one that is on both your original and new two bearing quills?

[JPG]

I think James is doing the same as SS does with a new quill by including a drive/ring(splined coupler).

P.S. which post(#) do you describe the quill reinstallation problem????

[hfmann]

hi all,

Jame's single bearing quill was about $180 including shipping. The SS one was about the same price. I'd have to look the invoices up to give more precise info.

ISorry about the poor description I made earlier comparing the "drive/ring (splined coupler.) I'll post a short video later showing the one I'm replacing and the two new ones. In the meantime, the only difference on the outside between James and SS is that the ""drive/ring (splined coupler.)" slides very easily into the quill housing whereas James' is a very, tight fit and may require some persuasion.

Running out of time today but still hoping to get to it.

hal

[JPG]

The only thing that requires 'persuasion' with the splinned coupler is installing it onto the drive sleeve. That ring spring is quite stiff. FWIW I tend to use my own words to describe parts.

Also I would install the coupler onto the drive sleeve and not be concerned re the coupler fitting into the quill body.

Is it possible that your difficulty getting the quill installed into the headstock is because the coupler is NOT pressed fully onto the drive sleeve?

[hfmann]

Ok all - here's the video (1 min 38 sec) showing the three quills. https://youtu.be/ltpC_9TSC8U

Since the old coupler didn't come out with the old quill assembly, I've got to figure out if I can get it out without removing the upper drive. Since this is
PowerPro headstock, there's no way to access that coupler and ring by removing the logo plate per the instructions. Back to Jim's video I guess.

hal

[hfmann]

Is it possible that your difficulty getting the quill installed into the headstock is because the coupler is NOT pressed fully onto the drive sleeve?

I really haven't tried to install a new quill assembly yet. When I took the quill out for the comparison video I was surprised the coupler didn't just come out with the rest of the assembly. Now I see the ring in the couplers you're talking about. Makes me think I'll have to remove the drive to access it and replace with a new coupler.

Geesh!

Glad you know that I'm not the only one who has to make up descriptions to try and explain things.

hal

[jsburger]

The video comes up as private.

[hfmann]

The video comes up as private.

OOPS - think I've fixed it now. Sorry.

hal

[DLB]

It is normal that the 'old' coupler stayed attached to the upper drive. That's how it works, as JPG said above. If you want to change it, you will have to remove the upper drive as you have surmised. This would be a big step on a PowerPro I think, I'm not sure if you can remove it without removing the Idler but maybe someone else knows. I don't see any reason to change it at this time. In my opinion it is unlikely that there is anything wrong with your old one, I would put both of the new ones in the drawer and just install the quill. Once you install the quill you can test the old coupler by holding the upper aux. drive while turning the quill spindle to check for free play. If there is no or little free play, you should be good to go. It would not surprise me if these parts last much longer with two bearing quills than single bearing.

- David