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A slight bit of smaller diameter (.0005") will probably aid movement of the carriage and not effect accuracy. Actually, you'll never know any difference. Especially since you've not yet been able to use that little bugger.

Once again - You do very good work, Mike!:D

Ditto that! A very entertaining thread. You've probably single-handedly boosted 10ER market values also.

Nice!! I doubt I would ever do a restoration, but watching these old machines "come to life "is fun. I am always amazed at the skills you guys bring to the process. It motivates me in four things;
1. It makes doing the things to maintain my machine a lot easier. Those first pictures are pretty scary .
2 I learn a lot about the machines and how they work. Consequently I think I use the machine more effectively.
3. I am more willing to take on the procedures for alignment because I have seen the all of the "innerds" in pieces and they don't seem so mysterious.
4. I am much more likley to go looking for parts for an out of date machine than i ever was before. You have saved an old router and some $$.

Thanks again for sharing

charlese wrote:A slight bit of smaller diameter (.0005") will probably aid movement of the carriage and not effect accuracy. Actually, you'll never know any difference. Especially since you've not yet been able to use that little bugger.

Once again - You do very good work, Mike!:D

Actually Chuck the tubes are .004" smaller. The .0005" is the variation along the length of the tube.

Thx for the compliments guys. Working hard on this machine.

OK, I have to ask, what's happened this last week? Can't wait to see more...

mickyd wrote:Actually Chuck the tubes are .004" smaller. The .0005" is the variation along the length of the tube.

Thx for the compliments guys. Working hard on this machine.

Since the 'lock' is squeezing the tube from the 'sides' the od really doesn't matter. Here I go thinking Mark 5 when you are working on a 10E/R!:o So tell us how the 10 E/R locks work. Do they have RH/LH threads????

JPG40504 wrote:Since the 'lock' is squeezing the tube from the 'sides' the od really doesn't matter.

Same way I have been thinking. The 10 has to squeeze on the way tubes in order to stay steady.

Of course, you could drill holes through the castings and the tubes and steady the carriage, etc. with clevis pins.

It's been a dogs age since I've updated this thread!! Between my 2 week vacation and miscellaneous life's responsibilities, I was pulled me away from the ER restoration. Had a ball on vacation but have to admit to SERIOUS ShopSmith DT's. Since company from Florida stayed with us for 11 days, I was only able to sneak in a few hours of work while everyone slept. I'm back and ready to get a move on though.

Completed my 3rd prototype nameplate tonight using the chemical etch process. (here is a memory jogger as to what my first and second attempt looked like) Not ready to post full detailed instructions yet but I now have the process figured out. It's really fairly simple. The only thing wrong with this attempt was I slightly over etched the brass and lost detail on the sharp edges of the smaller print. Other than that, it came out pretty good. Here's pics after etch and after painting.
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JPG40504 wrote:Since the 'lock' is squeezing the tube from the 'sides' the od really doesn't matter. Here I go thinking Mark 5 when you are working on a 10E/R!:o So tell us how the 10 E/R locks work. Do they have RH/LH threads????

Didn't see this post until tonight. The type of lock on my ER is the one piece right hand thread show in this post.

https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?p=40357&postcount=28

It threads into the headstock. This style lock doesn't squeeze the side of the OD but instead biases the tube against the inner surface of the bore in the headstock. There is only one lock on the ER.

I calculated the error due to the tube OD being reduced by about .004" to sand the pits out and the error is negligible (few hundredth of a degree).

If I were to do another set of tubes, I would probably bring them to a machine shop and have them turned down on a lathe instead of hand sanding. Not only was it time consuming but it's probably not the healthiest of processes. Without a respirator, you end out getting the taste of metal in your mouth the next day which means you inhaled more than you should have!!

Mike, attempt 3 for your label turned out much better. I'm impressed.