Shop building questions
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I definitely plan on putting some pegboard above the center area of the bench. And I'll add more shelves or cabinets on either side.
I wasn't concerned with making this dead flat and perfectly smooth because I don't plan for this to be a dedicated "woodworking" area. It will be more of an all-purpose work area. Somewhere that I can rebuild the carb on my Harley if I need to, for example, or assemble a model kit (another hobby of mine) or clean a gun. Somewhere that I don't have to worry about messing up the top with paints or solvents or gouges or nail holes. If I damage a section too much, I can just replace a board or two. If I need a flat, smooth surface, I can always place a piece of 3/4" MDF down on it.
I wasn't concerned with making this dead flat and perfectly smooth because I don't plan for this to be a dedicated "woodworking" area. It will be more of an all-purpose work area. Somewhere that I can rebuild the carb on my Harley if I need to, for example, or assemble a model kit (another hobby of mine) or clean a gun. Somewhere that I don't have to worry about messing up the top with paints or solvents or gouges or nail holes. If I damage a section too much, I can just replace a board or two. If I need a flat, smooth surface, I can always place a piece of 3/4" MDF down on it.
Heath
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35600
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
1/8" hardboard(aka masonite in the old days) makes a good replaceable surface.heathicus wrote:I definitely plan on putting some pegboard above the center area of the bench. And I'll add more shelves or cabinets on either side.
I wasn't concerned with making this dead flat and perfectly smooth because I don't plan for this to be a dedicated "woodworking" area. It will be more of an all-purpose work area. Somewhere that I can rebuild the carb on my Harley if I need to, for example, or assemble a model kit (another hobby of mine) or clean a gun. Somewhere that I don't have to worry about messing up the top with paints or solvents or gouges or nail holes. If I damage a section too much, I can just replace a board or two. If I need a flat, smooth surface, I can always place a piece of 3/4" MDF down on it.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- dusty
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 21530
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
I am using 1/8" hard board for my bench tops now and it is working OK. I do wish I could locate "masonite" like I used in days gone by. The hard board is not near as hard as masonite.JPG40504 wrote:1/8" hardboard(aka masonite in the old days) makes a good replaceable surface.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Here's my first question in a while. It's regarding layout of the shop.
As I've pondered and planned the layout, everything revolved around two items that seemed to be "set in stone" in my mind. The big shelf/counter/cabinets against the back wall. And my Craftsman table saw in the center of the floor, on the end where the door is. That way, as I brought in rough lumber, the table saw would be right there at the door. When I needed to rip a long board, I could start with them hanging out the door. Everything else revolved around that idea. That is even why I put the door where it is.
What seemed to work out in my head the best was to have storage along the left wall (standing at the door looking in) and leave the right wall open to put the jointer and Shopsmiths against and pull them out when needed (maybe storage above them as the ceiling is higher on that side). Behind the table saw, in the center, would be a combination outfeed table/workbench/assembly table.
But, as I was using the table saw the other day, I began to question its placement. In that position the door to the shop is behind me. I can't see it, and with the table saw running, I can't hear anybody come in behind me. This really dawned on me when I was ripping down my planks and a small piece that broke off as I cut through a knot ended up being against the rear of the blade. As it sat there bouncing against the blade, I knew what was going to happen so I turned the saw off (but it takes nearly a full minute to come to a stop) and stepped to the side. Sure enough, there was a loud "bang" and the piece disappeared. I turned around and my youngest daughter was standing in the doorway, directly behind the table saw.
She was ok and didn't even realize anything had happened, but it scared the baloney out of me. I explained to her that, when she heard machines running, she needed to stay away and after she left I closed and locked the door and went back to work. But, it really made me start thinking about the table saw's placement.
I don't want anyone walking up behind me while I'm using the table saw. I don't want them standing there, in the saw's kickback path. Especially one of my kids. But relocating it takes away some usability. If I turn it 90 degrees, I lose a lot of ripping capacity as well as outfeed support. If I move it to the other end of the shop and turn it around, I can retain outfeed support, but lose ripping capacity and workflow efficiency.
Any thoughts or ideas? What would you do in this situation?
As I've pondered and planned the layout, everything revolved around two items that seemed to be "set in stone" in my mind. The big shelf/counter/cabinets against the back wall. And my Craftsman table saw in the center of the floor, on the end where the door is. That way, as I brought in rough lumber, the table saw would be right there at the door. When I needed to rip a long board, I could start with them hanging out the door. Everything else revolved around that idea. That is even why I put the door where it is.
What seemed to work out in my head the best was to have storage along the left wall (standing at the door looking in) and leave the right wall open to put the jointer and Shopsmiths against and pull them out when needed (maybe storage above them as the ceiling is higher on that side). Behind the table saw, in the center, would be a combination outfeed table/workbench/assembly table.
But, as I was using the table saw the other day, I began to question its placement. In that position the door to the shop is behind me. I can't see it, and with the table saw running, I can't hear anybody come in behind me. This really dawned on me when I was ripping down my planks and a small piece that broke off as I cut through a knot ended up being against the rear of the blade. As it sat there bouncing against the blade, I knew what was going to happen so I turned the saw off (but it takes nearly a full minute to come to a stop) and stepped to the side. Sure enough, there was a loud "bang" and the piece disappeared. I turned around and my youngest daughter was standing in the doorway, directly behind the table saw.
She was ok and didn't even realize anything had happened, but it scared the baloney out of me. I explained to her that, when she heard machines running, she needed to stay away and after she left I closed and locked the door and went back to work. But, it really made me start thinking about the table saw's placement.
I don't want anyone walking up behind me while I'm using the table saw. I don't want them standing there, in the saw's kickback path. Especially one of my kids. But relocating it takes away some usability. If I turn it 90 degrees, I lose a lot of ripping capacity as well as outfeed support. If I move it to the other end of the shop and turn it around, I can retain outfeed support, but lose ripping capacity and workflow efficiency.
Any thoughts or ideas? What would you do in this situation?
Heath
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35600
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
The simplest(not the best I am sure) is to hang a mirror beside the saw so that the doorway is in your peripheral vision when watching the saw.
A sawhorse fence outside the door when sawing, may deter folks ignorant of the danger.
I'm looking for low budget ideas here!:)
A sawhorse fence outside the door when sawing, may deter folks ignorant of the danger.
I'm looking for low budget ideas here!:)
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35600
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
dusty wrote:I am using 1/8" hard board for my bench tops now and it is working OK. I do wish I could locate "masonite" like I used in days gone by. The hard board is not near as hard as masonite.
There is a thread here on that subject(1/8" pegboard). What they now refer to as 'tempered' is nothing like the old oil tempered hard as a brick(almost!:D) bat masonite.
I believe the environmentalists caused its demise.
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=2847&highlight=masonite
Read down to masonite discussion.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
If you simply rotate the table saw 180 degrees, you can push the wood through the saw from the inside of the shop to the outside and retain the same capacity for ripping that you have now. You'll just have to be a little more creative in setting up and adjusting a roller stand or whatever for outfeed support. In any event you'll only need to reverse the current set up for long boards. Also, if you don't have casters on the saw, adding a mobile base would give you more flexibility as well.
Art in Western Pennsylvania
I now have a working door handle and latch. I don't recall if I mentioned before, but I had a screen door handle/latch that I had bought for my screened in porch and ended up not using. Thing is, it's made for doors up to 2" thick and mine is 4" thick. So, for a while now, I've been just using the inside latch and opening the window and reaching in to open the door.
I looked high and low for the screws of the proper side/thread that were at least 4" long. No luck. So I contacted a really good guy I know that works in the fastener industry and he supplied me with some lengths of all-thread of the proper size/thread along with some dome nuts.
I used a bit of welding rod to span between the outside button and the inside latch.


Also built a lumber rack this weekend. Just some 2x4 and 1x4 arms screwed to the studs.


Unfortunately, I don't have any "nice" lumber of significant size. Just some pine boards, small cedar cut-offs, and pallet scraps. But, it definitely helped clear up some space.
I looked high and low for the screws of the proper side/thread that were at least 4" long. No luck. So I contacted a really good guy I know that works in the fastener industry and he supplied me with some lengths of all-thread of the proper size/thread along with some dome nuts.
I used a bit of welding rod to span between the outside button and the inside latch.


Also built a lumber rack this weekend. Just some 2x4 and 1x4 arms screwed to the studs.


Unfortunately, I don't have any "nice" lumber of significant size. Just some pine boards, small cedar cut-offs, and pallet scraps. But, it definitely helped clear up some space.
Heath
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35600
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Surely not the one in SD? Is he still alive?:Dheathicus wrote:I now have a working door handle and latch. I don't recall if I mentioned before, but I had a screen door handle/latch that I had bought for my screened in porch and ended up not using. Thing is, it's made for doors up to 2" thick and mine is 4" thick. So, for a while now, I've been just using the inside latch and opening the window and reaching in to open the door.
I looked high and low for the screws of the proper side/thread that were at least 4" long. No luck. So I contacted a really good guy I know that works in the fastener industry and he supplied me with some lengths of all-thread of the proper size/thread along with some dome nuts.
I used a bit of welding rod to span between the outside button and the inside latch.
Also built a lumber rack this weekend. Just some 2x4 and 1x4 arms screwed to the studs.
Unfortunately, I don't have any "nice" lumber of significant size. Just some pine boards, small cedar cut-offs, and pallet scraps. But, it definitely helped clear up some space.
Interesting divider!:rolleyes:
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Yep, the one in SD! He's alive and well and hopes to get back to woodworking soon. He's too busy mountain biking right now.
That "divider" wasn't intended for that purpose. That thing is a genuine antique. Although I'm sure it's really a foot board, my grandparents used it for the headboard on the guest bed for longer than I can remember. I used it as the headboard for my son's first "big boy" bed after he outgrew the crib. I've been hanging on to it for a long time now with no use for it but too attached to it to get rid of it but no idea what to do with it. But one of those "picker" shows on TV (the one with the two women) gave me an idea for it. I'm going to attach a bench seat to it and it will become the back of the bench. I'll put it in the girls' room. But it hangs nicely where it is for now.
That "divider" wasn't intended for that purpose. That thing is a genuine antique. Although I'm sure it's really a foot board, my grandparents used it for the headboard on the guest bed for longer than I can remember. I used it as the headboard for my son's first "big boy" bed after he outgrew the crib. I've been hanging on to it for a long time now with no use for it but too attached to it to get rid of it but no idea what to do with it. But one of those "picker" shows on TV (the one with the two women) gave me an idea for it. I'm going to attach a bench seat to it and it will become the back of the bench. I'll put it in the girls' room. But it hangs nicely where it is for now.
Heath
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration