Shopsmith Forums

Thanks Ron - you should rename it to Newcomer Information *Dos and Don'ts* and MORE =)

Motor update - After all that research I ended up ordering replacement bearings from Grainger. Here is what I ordered based on my research.

https://www.grainger.com/product/SKF-Ra ... ing-23Y205?

Does any have a photo of the motor shaft with the bearings? or know if the bottom (short end of the shaft) bearing needs a snap ring? I noticed there is a groove viable when the bearing is installed where a snap ring could be installed. Guessing it doesn't need one-would make the disassembly difficult.

The bearings are a slip fit not pressed in for the A. O. Smith Motors. I don't recall a snap ring on the shaft end of the 3/4 HP Motor I did last. I didn't take any pictures of it while I had it apart. I would have to take apart the other one I have waiting to be worked on to check but it will be a while until I get to that one. The one I did last is on a 10ER waiting to be sold. The only thing a snap ring would do is keep the bearing on the shaft when taking apart the motor. Otherwise the bearing would stay with the part, shaft or housing end, having the most friction. Operationally I don't think it matters.

The 1/2HP motor has no grove in the end of the shaft.

So now we need a thread for 'casual "restorers"'?

Only use electrolysis or evaporust to remove rust.

Minimize use of abrasives. Think of them as polishing thingies.

Only use a hammer after ALL other alternatives have been unsuccessful.

Only rarely use a hammer to tap something during reassembly.

Squeezzing is better than impact.

If you do not understand, ASK!


next . . .

jsburger wrote:The 1/2HP motor has no grove in the end of the shaft.

looks suspiciously like a groove.

JPG wrote:

jsburger wrote:The 1/2HP motor has no grove in the end of the shaft.

looks suspiciously like a groove.
whazzat.jpg

Look again at the OP's post and picture. He is talking about the other end of the rotor. The end that goes in the closed end bell where the centrifugal switch is.

jsburger wrote:

JPG wrote:

jsburger wrote:The 1/2HP motor has no grove in the end of the shaft.

looks suspiciously like a groove.
whazzat.jpg

Look again at the OP's post and picture. He is talking about the other end of the rotor. The end that goes in the closed end bell where the centrifugal switch is.

Correct, thanks for the picture!

JPG wrote:So now we need a thread for 'casual "restorers"'?

Only use electrolysis or evaporust to remove rust.

Minimize use of abrasives. Think of them as polishing thingies.

Only use a hammer after ALL other alternatives have been unsuccessful.

Only rarely use a hammer to tap something during reassembly.

Squeezzing is better than impact.

If you do not understand, ASK!


next . . .

JPG - Hard to tell your tone in your reply, but I was jk. I read the newcomer information before and didn't recall seeing the same information you shared in my post that will eventually get buried in all my updates and questions. Also, the information you shared is about operating the jointer and not related to restoring. I would think this information is more valuable to the forum.

jsburger wrote:

JPG wrote:

jsburger wrote:The 1/2HP motor has no grove in the end of the shaft.

looks suspiciously like a groove.
whazzat.jpg

Look again at the OP's post and picture. He is talking about the other end of the rotor. The end that goes in the closed end bell where the centrifugal switch is.

Oh THAT!