SS Tracksaw

[bigjohn1]

EZ offers a mitre square that is more then just a 90 degree square. you can make your own 90. As you can see or hear they will have something similar to what EZ makes and of coarse better then the rest they claim I'm sure of that. Even fesstool has one or both not well done but they have them. Dewalt and Makita are just what they are track and there own saw Fesstool is more of a system kinda like EZ is a full system that works together. True track is making what is already out there and bean around for a long time have a track record of use and now all of a sudden true track just out of the gate tells you they are better then the rest well that makes a lot of scence to me. Check out EZ they have a sale on now and free shipping If you live in the USA only. I lose out on that great deal and pay 30 % shipping and happy to do so If thats the only way I can get there tools.
I think shopsmith have sold a great tool for a long time not sure whats up now.

[charlese]

Chuck
You are fortunate in that the left side of your saw base is apparently parallel to your blade. I have never had a circular saw where that was true within tolerances usually used to align tablesaws....

Lastly I don't know what yours weights but when I built on like it, it was a pain in the rump to store and more around.

Hi, Ed! You know - I never even gave the parallel issue a thought. After all, I bought the very best saw the pawn shop had.
Paid $25 after a bit of haggling.

If a circle saw is not parallel to its base, there will be no problem provided the back of the blade (the down cutting side) is closer to the saw guide I use as that offset will be exactly where the hardboard is cut. Any chipout from the front of the blade will be trimmed with the back of the blade.

Also if the blade's offset is wider on the back of the saw - the kerf will be wider and any chipout will be on the bottom of the workpiece.

Anyway, mine seems to be parallel enough to the base. The piece sawn in my photo (above) is melamine. There was no chipout. After buying this expensive saw, I bought a Piranha Thin Kerf blade from HD. Have used this blade for 10 years or so with no touch-ups.

My 5' long jig weighs about 5 pounds - maybe 7 -less than 10.

[JPG]

Which track system do you use?

I thought you went into 'ignore' mode.

Some things do not require 'hands on' to understand.

I do not have a 'track system'.

Everything I posted is equally applicable to a straight edge 'system'. The track merely eliminates the possibility of the saw wandering off the 'straight edge'.

I am not convinced all these expensive extruded proprietary 'systems' are a panacea or a total replacement to a TS. I am not all that convinced that a portable('skillsaw') is all that more safe.

The safety is as the skill is dependent upon the operator.

Now how does one cut a rabbet or a spline slot with a track saw?(Do not tell me to use a router!:()(or a dado blade in the 'skilsaw')

Finally those extruded parts seem quite capable of being bent.

[bigjohn1]

[quote="JPG40504"]I thought you went into 'ignore' mode.]

I did try to stop but its hard when others can't see the light and yes skill helps there not the ones getting hurt its the ones that think there good or just should not own a power tool. Or even kids learning. If you would just take the time and investagate what some of us are trying to tell others that you don't need a table saw anymore and yes all spinning blades are dangerouse but a table saw blade spins toward you and a circular saw spins away from you big difference so think about not believing there is a better way because the better way is on the move, Good things take time and its hard to change when for all thoses years you were told that you do that on a table saw, I am not a master of anything and need all the help I can get to be first safe second my work not to look like a dogs hinde leg lol hope this helps.

[JPG]

I did try to stop but its hard when others can't see the light and yes skill helps there not the ones getting hurt its the ones that think there good or just should not own a power tool. Or even kids learning. If you would just take the time and investagate what some of us are trying to tell others that you don't need a table saw anymore and yes all spinning blades are dangerouse but a table saw blade spins toward you and a circular saw spins away from you big difference so think about not believing there is a better way because the better way is on the move, Good things take time and its hard to change when for all thoses years you were told that you do that on a table saw, I am not a master of anything and need all the help I can get to be first safe second my work not to look like a dogs hinde leg lol hope this helps.

Don't try to confuse ME with irrelevant details.

Stop confusing yourself with circular logic.

Yes I agree tis just a matter of time re demise of new ts production, however there are operations that are a better fit with one. Like many 'replacement' gadgets/procedures force fitting is required and improvement is not always the end result. Just a matter priorities!

BTW there is no shortage of illumination here! Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Light is perceived differently through different eyes.

Common sense and rational thinking is the best way to 'be safe'. You should not need to be told by others!

[dusty]

Yes, I am in the ignore mode, JPG. But that does not prevent me from reading meaningful posts put here by thoughtful and sensitive members.

Furthermore, it does not mean that I am adverse to a track system. A faster way to accurately break down sheet goods is of interest. I am giving some thought to how I could do this without having the saw horses involved and without giving up floor space to a cutting table.

Maybe the answer is in this thread: Use dimensional lumber and quit using sheet goods except for drawer bottoms. I'm almost there, anyhow. My projects have gotten smaller over the years.

The needs of growing grand children may have some impact.

[pennview]

JPG, if "technique" was all it took to make identical parts with one of these track guides, there would be no need for a system that included the "square" and "repeater" items mentioned by tool72, or the "ripsizer" or "cabinet maker repeater" in the EZ setup mentioned by bigjohn1.

Those two individuals have given me useful information on the subject; specifically, it takes more than "technique" to get the job done. I'm still not interested in a track system, as I have more than a shop full of tools to do the job, but were I planning to build a another kitchen full of cabinets, I'd likely look closer at one of these, especially if it could save some time or effort. Or, if I was just starting out on a life-long woodworking adventure, perhaps I'd look closer at one of these today.

[jm51]

Perhaps someone who owns one of these track system could answer a few questions for me. For background, I've used an aluminum rail and circular saw for years to reduce sheet goods to manageable size and then finish them to size on a table saw, and I'm satisfied with that approach.

But my question has to do with repeatable cuts to exactly the same size, as in wanting to size kitchen cabinet parts or such, not cut sheet goods for a sub floor. Using a rule (or storystick, or whatever) to put pencil marks on a plywood panel and then aligning an edge of a track rail would seem to work for one piece, but doing that a dozen times and expecting identical parts seems a bit of a stretch. How does this work?

Also, how is it to cross cut narrow pieces to exact size? I'm talking about identical length as in making drawer parts.

I'm not wanting to engage in sniping or rock throwing, regarding track systems. I'm just curious about how well the work.

I own a Festool TS55 plus 2 guide tracks and yes there are limitations if, like me, that is all you have. Parallel guides plus extensions are top of my current wishlist.

I use a freebie chipboard office desk. For cuts wider than the track, I fix a straight edge as backstop, (either screwed to the desk or clamped) so that the cut will be about 1/2" off the desk and I double check for size at both edges before cutting.

Using the first piece as a reference, I position the track again and clamp it up. Then I fix pieces of scrap to act as rail stops. Remove the rail and replace a couple of times, checking for accuracy each time. If all is well I can bang out panels like a production line. btw, a Henry vacuum cleaner works ok as a shopvac on my saw, virtually dust free.

Still 2 cuts to go, they need an extra straight edge to ensure a 90' cut. I use a wixey on both the backstop and the guide rail. I use the same setup for cross cutting, fill up the desk with work to be cut, push the timber together, place rail and cut.

For pieces narrower than the guide rail, I use an adjustable combination square. I set the ruler to the width required plus a guesstimate of the kerf. I set the rail using the square and barely cut into the work, maybe 1/8". Then I measure the actual width of cut and adjust the square if necessary. Once I've got that square correct, the cutting is a breeze using the square as a story stick.

[JPG]

[quote="pennview"]JPG, if "technique" was all it took to make identical parts with one of these track guides, there would be no need for a system that included the "square" and "repeater" items mentioned by tool72, or the "ripsizer" or "cabinet maker repeater" in the EZ setup mentioned by bigjohn1.

Those two individuals have given me useful information on the subject]
I never meant to imply that technique was ALL it takes, but that poor technique diminishes the result. The key operative words were "how well"
I agree that we have been exposed to stuff we may not have seen or thought of before. Yes there is some wheat mixed in among the chaff.

All the finger pointing and bashing we could have done without.



OK Dusty, 'Selective' ignoring!;) I quite well understand that with this thread! Now if I could just do that!:rolleyes:

BTW I do think technique is more crucial with these 'systems'. Too easy for misalignment and slippage IMHO.

[bigjohn1]

Hi everyone you may not want to hear from me and we will try and stay quite yes for me that's very hard. I have been told in pm's to go back where I came and thats ok but for the ones that would like good information about a system that can do just what you asked here.

1. Your best place to go and spend sometime and really look around is eurekazone.com and then there forum watch some videos on just what you ask don't take it from me first hand.

2. They have a tool called the ripsizer for ripping long boards to width not just plywood but thats its main purpose.

3. For all you cabinet makers out there they have a tool called the cabinet maker witch is a square,Track,and a repeater all in one where you set your size once and cut as many as you like to that size.

4. Then they have the EZ-One withch has a bridge and opens a whole new world to the woodworker.

5. They have a smart table that every woodworker needs and should have this is one sweet Idea and for 65 bucks to make one with there kit you can't go wrong.

6. they also have the best router system going can setup many ways even as a tunnel router setup that is way cool. Like I said its a system and takes time to learn what they have and what the tools can do but first off makes woodworking very safe for new and old.

Add this system to your shopsmith and there is nothing you can't do. to tell you the truth its made very well and quality is very good.

So sorry to all that I upset at the start of this all but things happen at times and thats how I felt even If I may have gone about it the wrong way.

Practice and enjoy John.....