Shop building questions

papahammer8 · Post by **papahammer8** » Mon Oct 22, 2012 10:17 pm

lol
i am my fathers son . i well always get bored with my shop and find away to change it again . but without a doubt you will complete it this time but in a couple of years of looking at what u did you will do it again. just make sure u have the frame solid so changes will be easy. it's a process of making things easier. hagn jim

heathicus · Post by **heathicus** » Sun Nov 04, 2012 1:54 am

I've been thinking about cooling in the shop and was looking around to ID which area of wall space I'd want to give up to a window AC unit. It occurred to me the ceiling would be a better spot. So I thought maybe get a used RV/Camper roof mounted AC unit. Any reason this wouldn't work? I don't know anything about them. Do they use standard 110 electric? How do the controls connect? Is it hard to prevent leaks? Are they hard to find used? Are they significantly more expensive?

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sun Nov 04, 2012 5:56 am

heathicus wrote:I've been thinking about cooling in the shop and was looking around to ID which area of wall space I'd want to give up to a window AC unit. It occurred to me the ceiling would be a better spot. So I thought maybe get a used RV/Camper roof mounted AC unit. Any reason this wouldn't work? I don't know anything about them. Do they use standard 110 electric? How do the controls connect? Is it hard to prevent leaks? Are they hard to find used? Are they significantly more expensive?

I can't answer but one of your questions and then it may apply only to older AC units. They typically have a drip pan that sets under the AC unit (sometimes inclosed within the AC cover) that gathers the moisture from condensation. That water is then discharged through a hose or evaporates.

Older units just discharged the overflow onto the roof of the RV. My current RV carries it to the underside of the coach.

Just An Opinion: I don't believe my RV AC is all that efficient. I would look for an old window unit rather than a roof top RV unit. Then there is another thought to be considered. Old ACs utilize freon. Is freon still readily available?

papahammer8 · Post by **papahammer8** » Sun Nov 04, 2012 7:08 am

a small ac unit is better due to the drainage on a rv ac unit . and a small ac new is cheap way to go. one i put in my shop was easy to put in . dont sacrifice a window . cut ur opening in the wall. in a area away and above and away from ur main work area.as a matter of fact i took this small ac i installed in a small travel trailer. remember no matter how good ur dust collector is , there will always be dust. im always keeping a eye on it ,cleaning filters.i only run it on the hottest days . nice to have all the windows opened. not that cold season is on us you should be able to find a cheaper a/c hagreat day jim

mrhart · Post by **mrhart** » Sun Nov 04, 2012 9:47 am

heathicus wrote:I've been thinking about cooling in the shop and was looking around to ID which area of wall space I'd want to give up to a window AC unit. It occurred to me the ceiling would be a better spot. So I thought maybe get a used RV/Camper roof mounted AC unit. Any reason this wouldn't work? I don't know anything about them. Do they use standard 110 electric? How do the controls connect? Is it hard to prevent leaks? Are they hard to find used? Are they significantly more expensive?

Have you ever looked up Mitsubishi Mr Slim wall mount ductless heat pumps? They are the cadalac answer. I can get them at wholesale house pricing and ship to you for our cost. Super efficient, just an option....remote control is cool as well.

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Sun Nov 04, 2012 9:22 pm

heathicus wrote:I've been thinking about cooling in the shop and was looking around to ID which area of wall space I'd want to give up to a window AC unit. It occurred to me the ceiling would be a better spot. So I thought maybe get a used RV/Camper roof mounted AC unit. Any reason this wouldn't work? I don't know anything about them. Do they use standard 110 electric? How do the controls connect? Is it hard to prevent leaks? Are they hard to find used? Are they significantly more expensive?

Hi Heath! I have two roof A/C units on our MH. They are both needed to cool 8x8x35 feet on a hot day. Each one of them are very hungry for amperes. Yes, they run on 110 Vac, but without a 30 amp hookup just one of them will draw enough current to blow a fuse.

I've got a window A/C mounted in a wall rather than a window in my 16x20 foot shop. It runs on 110Vac and a 20 amp circuit. My shop has no ceiling - just a roof which is insulated. The unit handles the shop in a reasonable way up to outside temps of 100 deg.

heathicus · Post by **heathicus** » Sat Feb 16, 2013 11:14 pm

So no question this time. Just a little "tour." I did a major cleaning today before starting another project and figuring the shop might never be this clean again, I decided to take some pictures.

Standing in the doorway looking in.

My old Delta Milwaukee jointer. I haven't used it much lately as it needs a major overhaul (but not quite a "restoration"). The threads on the adjusting rods are gummed up so I can't adjust it much, and the knives are painfully dull. When I restored an old Craftsman jointer (which I no longer have), I just remember how much trouble it was to get the tables coplanar and set the knives and I just haven't felt like tackling that again.

What's left of a 510 I bought and parted out on eBay (which helped me reach my necessary budget to build the shop). Right now it just holds my planer and miter saw, and home made accessory shelf. I have plans to make it more of a functional stand for the miter saw and planer (with left/right and infeed/outfeed supports) rather than just storage space. Cleaning, stripping, and repainting the legs are very low on the priority list.

My 10ER sanding station/lathe/jigsaw. One day I'll build a better base for it, but that is also low on the priority list. The parts for my 3rd 10ER are on the lower shelf awaiting a full restoration.

Toolboxes, grinder, and designated area for my shop helper, Zakk. Although he prefers to be right under my feet wherever I'm at.

Main storage cabinets and a workbench area. Still need to get some pegboard hooks and finish the doors on the cabinets. Then I need to fill it up with MORE TOOLS.

My 10ER dedicated drill press and my entire collection of clamps. The stand for the 10ER came off my old crummy Craftsman table saw. I cut down the legs, reinforced them to hold the weight, and added casters to I could roll the 10ER in and out of the corner when necessary. I have an idea for a counterweight and pulley system to make raising and lowering the table easier. We'll have to see how that works out.

My Mark 5 newly converted to a "shorty." I took the tubes to my dad's last weekend and cut 14" off using his handheld bandsaw (which cut through them like butter). I was afraid to cut any more off, but now that I've assembled it, I think I could have cut off a couple more inches. So far, I really like the reduced length. 14" doesn't seem like much, but between that and moving the accessory shelf to the planer/miter saw stand, it really freed up a lot of room. It didn't make it in the picture, but right above this is a long shelf that has all my spray paints and stuff like WD-40, Kroil, glue, wax, etc.

My main table saw and outfeed table (which typically also becomes my main workbench area). Some more storage and my stereo (vintage 70's 8-track!) in the background.

Even though the table saw is rather crummy (but it was free!), I do like this setup with the outfeed table. I can easily slide the whole thing away from the wall if I need more space to the left.

So, there you have it. It's not much, but it suits me quite well. I still have a lot of tools to acquire, and there's a lot of room for improvement, but there's really not much I've really wanted to do but just couldn't with my current collection.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sat Feb 16, 2013 11:44 pm

Nice setup!

beeg · Post by **beeg** » Sat Feb 16, 2013 11:58 pm

GREAT LOOKING shop ya got there Heath.

eagleta2 · Post by **eagleta2** » Sun Feb 17, 2013 12:48 am

JPG40504 wrote:The simplest(not the best I am sure) is to hang a mirror beside the saw so that the doorway is in your peripheral vision when watching the saw.

A sawhorse fence outside the door when sawing, may deter folks ignorant of the danger.

I'm looking for low budget ideas here!:)

I just want to jump in here...I've really enjoyed reading this thread and watching the shop come together!

I thought I might explain the shop rules at my house... I have 2 boys (now almost 10 & 15 yrs old) and my lovely wife. My shop is in the front half of an attached 2 car garage. I have erected a wall that runs parallel with the overhead garage door.

Anyone in my family knows that I work with the door between the shop and the laundry side of the garage CLOSED. When I am working on my equipment they don't enter the shop (for fear of starting the jumpy guy running the table saw).

When there is no equipment running, they knock before coming in just in case I am working on something delicate...what can I say...I startle easily:D

Looking forward to reading the rest of the thread

Thanks
Geo