Restoration Progress On My 1952 ER10
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I vote for a green and silver combinator to match the "Greenie" I'll see what I can do with Photoshop to come up with a mock-up image.
If you want to go with the original color, I have a spot on my jigsaw where the two halves meet that has a good amount of the original paint preserved pretty well. I left it alone when I did my restoration in case I ever wanted to color match it. I'd be happy to go do that for you. Its kind of a blue-ish slate gray-ish color. The Rustoleum hammered gray is a much lighter color.
If you want to go with the original color, I have a spot on my jigsaw where the two halves meet that has a good amount of the original paint preserved pretty well. I left it alone when I did my restoration in case I ever wanted to color match it. I'd be happy to go do that for you. Its kind of a blue-ish slate gray-ish color. The Rustoleum hammered gray is a much lighter color.
I use CorelDraw X4, have used Corel since version 1 about 20 years ago. I never got into Illustrator, and I've tried Inkscape, but Corel is where all my habits are.mickyd wrote:What program / version are you working in??
If you're not using it for commercial work, you can get the education version of CD for about $90 on buy.com but since you're learning Inkscape and it's free, my advice would be to stay with that.
P.S. I vote for candy apple red!

JC
Hampden Twp, PA
Bought, restored and sold a 520 before I knew what I had (and should have kept) - Now I found religion and I'm working on restoring a 500 and a 10E.
Hampden Twp, PA
Bought, restored and sold a 520 before I knew what I had (and should have kept) - Now I found religion and I'm working on restoring a 500 and a 10E.
- tom_k/mo
- Platinum Member
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- Joined: Mon Jul 14, 2008 3:58 pm
- Location: St. Louis, MO
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Affyx, I've been a Corel user since version 2.54. Still have that version on 3.5" disks. Agree, Corel's a great tool, but... there are still problems with imports/exports. Mike & I have been passing data back and forth. InkScape will import AI files, but not the ones I've created from Corel (both v3 and v9 AI). InkScape will NOT Export AI files,even though it will import them. It will Export EPS files that I can import into Corel, but InkScape will not Import EPS files. InkScape saves it's files in SVG format, but Corel can't read InkScape's SVG files, yet InkScape WILL read SVG files created in Corel. Go figure... The one thing I think is odd about inkscape is that it's translation features are not BI-DIRECTIONAL.
ShopSmith MarkV-520 with Belt Sander, Jointer, Band Saw, Strip Sander, Scroll Saw and Biscuit Jointer SPTs and a DC-3300...
Woodworking Hobbyist (Check out all my Woodworking Plans (http://vbwhiz.isa-geek.net/plans)
Aspiring Sandcarver: Breaking glass one grain at a time.
Black Powder Shooter (love the smell of burning sulfur).
Woodworking Hobbyist (Check out all my Woodworking Plans (http://vbwhiz.isa-geek.net/plans)
Aspiring Sandcarver: Breaking glass one grain at a time.
Black Powder Shooter (love the smell of burning sulfur).
Tom:tom_k/mo wrote:Affyx, I've been a Corel user since version 2.54. Still have that version on 3.5" disks. Agree, Corel's a great tool, but... there are still problems with imports/exports. Mike & I have been passing data back and forth. InkScape will import AI files, but not the ones I've created from Corel (both v3 and v9 AI). InkScape will NOT Export AI files,even though it will import them. It will Export EPS files that I can import into Corel, but InkScape will not Import EPS files. InkScape saves it's files in SVG format, but Corel can't read InkScape's SVG files, yet InkScape WILL read SVG files created in Corel. Go figure... The one thing I think is odd about inkscape is that it's translation features are not BI-DIRECTIONAL.
I feel your pain! More than one of my coworkers has a 30 day trial of AI long expired on their PC because I needed to convert an EPS ar AI file into something that would import correctly into Corel; as bad as 2D is, Import/Export gets exponentially worse when trying to go between 3D formats. (speaking of which, great models in the SU 3D Warehouse!)
JC
JC
Hampden Twp, PA
Bought, restored and sold a 520 before I knew what I had (and should have kept) - Now I found religion and I'm working on restoring a 500 and a 10E.
Hampden Twp, PA
Bought, restored and sold a 520 before I knew what I had (and should have kept) - Now I found religion and I'm working on restoring a 500 and a 10E.
- mickyd
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 2999
- Joined: Mon Feb 09, 2009 1:18 pm
- Location: San Diego, CA
- Contact:
Board, Board, Board
Board....Board....Board......
Spent last night continuing to put more TLC into the original bench boards. Hand planed the four sides and orbital sanded the ends to get down to presentable looking grain. They're cleaning up pretty well.
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[ATTACH]5585[/ATTACH]
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[ATTACH]5586[/ATTACH]. . . [ATTACH]5587[/ATTACH]
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The original TOP surfaces of the boards had too much damage so I am flipping them over and focusing the restoration on what used to be the BOTTOM. The biggest problem with the original TOP was where the carriage bolts that secure the legs went through. The wood under the head that prevents the bolt from rotating was stripped out and / or rotted.
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[ATTACH]5589[/ATTACH]
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When you flip the boards over to use the bottom side, you also have to switch what used be the front bench board to the back and back to the front. This way here, the original holes with line up with the baseplate and the headrest.
[ATTACH]5590[/ATTACH]
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Don't know what tonights work will be. Haven't even had time to think about it today. Was too busy playing groundskeeper / gardener. Garden is giving me more food than I know what to do with. Wonder what a tomato cake would taste like!!!!
Spent last night continuing to put more TLC into the original bench boards. Hand planed the four sides and orbital sanded the ends to get down to presentable looking grain. They're cleaning up pretty well.
.
.
[ATTACH]5585[/ATTACH]
.
.
[ATTACH]5586[/ATTACH]. . . [ATTACH]5587[/ATTACH]
.
.
The original TOP surfaces of the boards had too much damage so I am flipping them over and focusing the restoration on what used to be the BOTTOM. The biggest problem with the original TOP was where the carriage bolts that secure the legs went through. The wood under the head that prevents the bolt from rotating was stripped out and / or rotted.
.
.
[ATTACH]5589[/ATTACH]
.
.
When you flip the boards over to use the bottom side, you also have to switch what used be the front bench board to the back and back to the front. This way here, the original holes with line up with the baseplate and the headrest.
[ATTACH]5590[/ATTACH]
.
.
Don't know what tonights work will be. Haven't even had time to think about it today. Was too busy playing groundskeeper / gardener. Garden is giving me more food than I know what to do with. Wonder what a tomato cake would taste like!!!!

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Mike
Sunny San Diego
Sunny San Diego
- mickyd
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 2999
- Joined: Mon Feb 09, 2009 1:18 pm
- Location: San Diego, CA
- Contact:
affyx wrote:I use CorelDraw X4, have used..................
P.S. I vote for candy apple red!
NICE LOOKING CHEVY, JC!! That sure isn't a $200 Macco paint job we're looking at. The clear coat probably cost you more than that. That's definitely one of the nicest looking paint job I've seen. I'll bet you don't try to squeeze that baby into a parking space when you run into the store. That's a PARK-N-WALKER for sure.
Red's a color that I also have a strong fancy for. Here's my maroon street illegal 420HP NOS injected rotary RX-7 that I built back in the mid '80's when my right foot was about 20 times heavier than my brain.
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Mike
Sunny San Diego
Sunny San Diego
- mickyd
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 2999
- Joined: Mon Feb 09, 2009 1:18 pm
- Location: San Diego, CA
- Contact:
“Mr. Original" broke out of his comfort zone. With the posts and PM's that were made re: "What color should I paint my ER?", the majority leaned toward "maroon"-ish. Obviously, the was never a factory OEM color but figured that on this unit, I "might" be different. Not fully convinced the final paint will be this color yet but needed to prototype it to see. Can always repaint it like it “should be” in the future. This time……decided to be bold.
Couldn't find any of the Rustoleum Hammered Maroon I talked abount in an earlier post so went with Rustoleum Burgundy Gloss Enamel. Cheaper and DEEPER in color than the hammered which I like better anyway. Comes close to matching my RX-7 and also affyx's '55 Chevy. With the rough texture already on the ER's cast iron headstock, wasn't sure if it was worth the search OR the 6 can minimum case purchase to go with the hammered paint anyway so…… it is what it is.
First, I painted the inside of the headstock with 3 coats of gray primer. Really brightened it up!! I don't have a real good before shot. Here's the best I could come up with.
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[ATTACH]5694[/ATTACH]. . . [ATTACH]5695[/ATTACH]
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Had to decide what to do with the tube lock handles. Bought one can each of Rustoleum Specialty Metallic Gold and Metallic Silver spray paint. The cap on the cans made it look like gold and chrome plating but in actuality, it doesn't’t come out anywhere near that well on any part with less than a perfect surface finish. Applied 3 coats of the metallic spray paint PLUS 3 coats of clear enamel on top but still doesn't look like a plated part. Not sure what I’ll do from here but here’s what they look like. (Top one is obviously unpainted, after evaporust).
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[ATTACH]5697[/ATTACH]
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The gold looks the best with the burgundy but…..it also looks a little cheesy, like gold painted Christmas decorations. Had it looked like gold plating it would have looked AWESOME.
Finally, painted the headstock. Applied 3 coats of the burgundy enamel. Could have done it in 2 coats had I applied primer over the original paint. If the original paint had been uniform, I wouldn't have needed the primer but since there were areas with paint missing, it took 3 coats to cover. I have to post the pics in the next message since I’ll exceed the max number of pictures in this one.
Couldn't find any of the Rustoleum Hammered Maroon I talked abount in an earlier post so went with Rustoleum Burgundy Gloss Enamel. Cheaper and DEEPER in color than the hammered which I like better anyway. Comes close to matching my RX-7 and also affyx's '55 Chevy. With the rough texture already on the ER's cast iron headstock, wasn't sure if it was worth the search OR the 6 can minimum case purchase to go with the hammered paint anyway so…… it is what it is.
First, I painted the inside of the headstock with 3 coats of gray primer. Really brightened it up!! I don't have a real good before shot. Here's the best I could come up with.
.
.
.
[ATTACH]5694[/ATTACH]. . . [ATTACH]5695[/ATTACH]
.
.
.
Had to decide what to do with the tube lock handles. Bought one can each of Rustoleum Specialty Metallic Gold and Metallic Silver spray paint. The cap on the cans made it look like gold and chrome plating but in actuality, it doesn't’t come out anywhere near that well on any part with less than a perfect surface finish. Applied 3 coats of the metallic spray paint PLUS 3 coats of clear enamel on top but still doesn't look like a plated part. Not sure what I’ll do from here but here’s what they look like. (Top one is obviously unpainted, after evaporust).
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.
[ATTACH]5697[/ATTACH]
.
.
.
The gold looks the best with the burgundy but…..it also looks a little cheesy, like gold painted Christmas decorations. Had it looked like gold plating it would have looked AWESOME.
Finally, painted the headstock. Applied 3 coats of the burgundy enamel. Could have done it in 2 coats had I applied primer over the original paint. If the original paint had been uniform, I wouldn't have needed the primer but since there were areas with paint missing, it took 3 coats to cover. I have to post the pics in the next message since I’ll exceed the max number of pictures in this one.
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Mike
Sunny San Diego
Sunny San Diego