Another step forward Mike! Lookin' Good!!!!:D
Looks like it is going smoother than your balloon landing! He!, He!
Restoration Progress On My 1952 ER10
Moderator: admin
Heard it years ago from a auto body guy. He warned me never to leave a car in primer. Those that do have rust bleeding through.mickyd wrote:Interesting comment. First I've heard of this. Do you recall how you found out about that? Looks like I'll be clear coating mine this weekend.
So, this doesn't apply to cast iron?
And now that I think about it, yes, aluminum doesn't rust, but doesn't it corrode?
Craig
Hartland, WI
-Mark 5 "Greenie" S/N 342238, Manuf. mmm/mmm 1957, Acq. Oct. 2008, Joiner S/N M067266
-10 E/ER(?) S/N Unknown, Joiner 4E S/N 40051
Hartland, WI
-Mark 5 "Greenie" S/N 342238, Manuf. mmm/mmm 1957, Acq. Oct. 2008, Joiner S/N M067266
-10 E/ER(?) S/N Unknown, Joiner 4E S/N 40051
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mickyd
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- Location: San Diego, CA
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nuhobby wrote:I like it and I know you'll make it work! Can't tell for sure until you put some parts back in the headstock. Maybe a little highlight of a cream color on the belt guards would look sharp....
P.S. Is that your original headstock and how did you fix the crack that happened in disassembly?
Hummmm....cream color. That would go well with the burgundy. I really wish I had more "decorating" vision. It's difficult to almost impossible for my brain to visualize color combos without seeing it first hand. Fortunately, my other half picks up in this area. I'll have to bounce that off her.
The painted headstock you see is the original. The cracked part that your talking about is the quill end cap (gage collar) that I trashed in my "Reverse Restorations" post.
charlese wrote:Another step forward Mike! Lookin' Good!!!!:D
Looks like it is going smoother than your balloon landing! He!, He!
Thanks Chuck.
Ohhhh, that hot air balloon landing WAS interesting. When we took off, the pilot made it a point to describe the "typical" landings. As we approached the ground, I said to myself "this ain't gonna be that "typical" landing he described!!!" All turned out well though. As you you tell in the photo, in the end, all are smiling. (Believe me, that wasn't the case a minute earlier as we were being dragged through the field bouncing around like a ping pong ball.)
Mike
Sunny San Diego
Sunny San Diego
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JPG
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- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
YOU GOTTA BE KIDDING!mickyd wrote: . . .
Fortunately, my other half picks up in this area. I'll have to bounce that off her.
. . .
You are going to ask She Who Knows Not, What Is Right, but Always knows, What Is Not Right?
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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robinson46176
- Platinum Member
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- Location: Central Indiana (Shelbyville)
mickyd wrote:Hummmm....cream color. That would go well with the burgundy.
Is that Krylon burgundy? I'm going to do a rattle-can paint job on an old truck using Krylon Burgundy and a Krylon cream color that I can't recall the name of right now.
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It will be what I call a "20 foot paint job" (looks best when viewed from about 20 feet away). It is an old truck I use mostly here on the farm and that I plan to replace in 2 years. No point doing a custom type job on it. It isn't a highly valuable item like a Shopsmith.
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farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
Gosh Farmer I figured you were going to tell us you had decided to repaint your hammer collection so they will look pretty hanging on the wall. that particular color combination would be guaranteed to get a lot of attention.robinson46176 wrote:Is that Krylon burgundy? I'm going to do a rattle-can paint job on an old truck using Krylon Burgundy and a Krylon cream color that I can't recall the name of right now.
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It will be what I call a "20 foot paint job" (looks best when viewed from about 20 feet away). It is an old truck I use mostly here on the farm and that I plan to replace in 2 years. No point doing a custom type job on it. It isn't a highly valuable item like a Shopsmith.
:):rolleyes: JimF. Jim Parks
Lakewood, Colorado:)
When the love of power is replaced by the power of love the world will have a chance for survival.
Lakewood, Colorado:)
When the love of power is replaced by the power of love the world will have a chance for survival.
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mickyd
- Platinum Member
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- Joined: Mon Feb 09, 2009 1:18 pm
- Location: San Diego, CA
- Contact:
Houston.....we have a nameplate!!
Since Saturday, I've wanted to post photos of my FINAL ER ShopSmith nameplate that I made using the acid etch process. Didn't want to post a photo until I had my "written procedure" completed in the event that someone wanted to make one on their own. The learning curve was steep enough where I thought it was worth sharing the trials and tribulations. This way, others could reproduce one on their own if they wanted. Well, my procedure was getting a bit too long for a post so I decided to instead create a pdf file since you can embed lots of photos without forum limitations. Sunday I worked it, Monday I added to it, Tuesday I cursed it and today......I decided that I am just going to post a couple photos and let the detail procedure follow at some point in the near future.
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[ATTACH]5891[/ATTACH]. . .[ATTACH]5898[/ATTACH]
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If you recall from the post of my 3rd attempt, the problem I had run into was over etching to get the correct depth but that effected the small lettering of "SERIAL NO". Well, my final attempt didn't come out perfect either but it was improved and it passed my QC check. You'll notice the letter "I" was just starting to erode away. There a lot of funky light bouncing off the letters due to clear coat so they don't look too hot in the photo. They look better to the eye. If / when I made another, I am going to make the "SERIAL NO." font just a little larger / thicker. I think its the only way to get it to come out right without getting over etched. Maybe the original aluminum etches better than this brass.
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[ATTACH]5893[/ATTACH]
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I just noticed something as I was getting ready to post.....I lost the "." on the end of "SERIAL NO."
It got etched away!! Actually, looking back, it got etched away EVERY TIME. Looks like a job for gold paint. ARG!! They're going to deduct a couple hundred $$$ when I take it to Antique Road Show.
Since Saturday, I've wanted to post photos of my FINAL ER ShopSmith nameplate that I made using the acid etch process. Didn't want to post a photo until I had my "written procedure" completed in the event that someone wanted to make one on their own. The learning curve was steep enough where I thought it was worth sharing the trials and tribulations. This way, others could reproduce one on their own if they wanted. Well, my procedure was getting a bit too long for a post so I decided to instead create a pdf file since you can embed lots of photos without forum limitations. Sunday I worked it, Monday I added to it, Tuesday I cursed it and today......I decided that I am just going to post a couple photos and let the detail procedure follow at some point in the near future.
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[ATTACH]5891[/ATTACH]. . .[ATTACH]5898[/ATTACH]
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If you recall from the post of my 3rd attempt, the problem I had run into was over etching to get the correct depth but that effected the small lettering of "SERIAL NO". Well, my final attempt didn't come out perfect either but it was improved and it passed my QC check. You'll notice the letter "I" was just starting to erode away. There a lot of funky light bouncing off the letters due to clear coat so they don't look too hot in the photo. They look better to the eye. If / when I made another, I am going to make the "SERIAL NO." font just a little larger / thicker. I think its the only way to get it to come out right without getting over etched. Maybe the original aluminum etches better than this brass.
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[ATTACH]5893[/ATTACH]
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.
I just noticed something as I was getting ready to post.....I lost the "." on the end of "SERIAL NO."
It got etched away!! Actually, looking back, it got etched away EVERY TIME. Looks like a job for gold paint. ARG!! They're going to deduct a couple hundred $$$ when I take it to Antique Road Show.- Attachments
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Mike
Sunny San Diego
Sunny San Diego
Mike, you are a prince among men!
I now have TWO ERs and flumixed by both, so I will anticipate your PDF file with great enthusiasm. Both of my medallion are held not by screws but by pins and I know you addressed that somewhere in these 18 pages. I am now ready to try and download each page and save them to the hard drive for future references. Thanks to you I painted my first machine Hammer Black, but today I painted my 2nd one Hammer Light Blue and she is PRETTY! Now building the table for #2. Both motors are messed up and since electricity is "white man magic" for me I am going to "consult" to figure out what kind of switch and cord to retrofit both with. Both cords are split and taped and just terrible to look at and work. One of the motors seized so I hope to learn to tear it down and put in new bearings, what ever they are. Anyway, thanks for doing it. I get a high just watching this thread and then trying my machines. You are an inspiration to us all.
I now have TWO ERs and flumixed by both, so I will anticipate your PDF file with great enthusiasm. Both of my medallion are held not by screws but by pins and I know you addressed that somewhere in these 18 pages. I am now ready to try and download each page and save them to the hard drive for future references. Thanks to you I painted my first machine Hammer Black, but today I painted my 2nd one Hammer Light Blue and she is PRETTY! Now building the table for #2. Both motors are messed up and since electricity is "white man magic" for me I am going to "consult" to figure out what kind of switch and cord to retrofit both with. Both cords are split and taped and just terrible to look at and work. One of the motors seized so I hope to learn to tear it down and put in new bearings, what ever they are. Anyway, thanks for doing it. I get a high just watching this thread and then trying my machines. You are an inspiration to us all.
Anniversary Model 505 to 520 Up grade, with Band saw, Jointer, Strip & Belt Sander, and a catalog of wishes.
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a1gutterman
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mickyd
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mickyd in red
Len wrote:Mike, you .......
Both of my medallion are held not by screws but by pins and I know you addressed that somewhere in these 18 pages. Go to posts 50 and 51. I am now ready to try and download each page and save them to the hard drive for future references. You know, I had never thought about saving this thread to my PC. I have no backup. If the thread were to somehow get lost / deleted / corrupted etc, I'd loose the whole thing. That would be a real bummer. Thanks to YOU, I decided to save the entire thread to pdf. I'll email it to you if you want. Just PM your address to me. It's too large for me to post it on the forum.Thanks to you I painted my first machine Hammer Black, You can thank heathicus for the paint choice. He's the one that owned the black one back in post 136 but today I painted my 2nd one Hammer Light Blue and she is PRETTY! Post some pics. We'd all love to see it. Now building the table for #2. Both motors are messed up and since electricity is "white man magic" for me I am going to "consult" to figure out what kind of switch and cord to retrofit both with. I used 15' 14ga 3 wire black electrical cord from Lowe's. Can't help you select a switch though. Someone else will have to help you here. Both cords are split and taped and just terrible to look at and work. One of the motors seized so I hope to learn to tear it down and put in new bearings, what ever they are. It simply to tear the motor apart and replace the bearings. When your ready, just shout and there's plenty of help. I went through it easily and I'd never had a motor apart before. Anyway, thanks for doing it. I get a high just watching this thread and then trying my machines. You are an inspiration to us all. Thanks a lot. I appreciate your interest.
Mike
Sunny San Diego
Sunny San Diego