Shopsmith Forums

wa2crk wrote:JSB
I didn't think my tires looked too bad. I will take another look. I have changed tires on several bandsaws but I can't remember if I did mine or not. Bandsaw is dated 5/22/01 so they might due.
Bill V

Yes I edited the post. Something didn't look right then I looked again. Sorry

Got the cover off mine and took the blade off so before I put it back together I took a couple of pictures. As you can see my brass screws look a lot different then yours.
Ed

Reible
I did check the length of mine and they are 3/4". If I do this again I will try to get some 1" long brass screws fro McMaster-Carr as replacements. The bandsaw is dated 5/22/01.
Bill V

IIRC, the height clamp spring tension will affect the final position of those brass screws.

Back the screws out fully, then adjust the clamp tension spring. This should position the post closer to the screws so they do not need to be so far in.

You might start with the brass screws set similar to Ed's shown above before adjusting the clamp spring tension.

wa2crk wrote:Reible
I did check the length of mine and they are 3/4". If I do this again I will try to get some 1" long brass screws fro McMaster-Carr as replacements. The bandsaw is dated 5/22/01.
Bill V

Mine is older but the casting sure look pretty much alike. How much space (opening) is there from the casting to the blade arm? I have about 3/16".

I'm also wondering if the guide lock spring could be damaged or set to far back. That would account for the issues. Might want to take a look at that.

Ed

WA2CRK: the blade is parallel to the post in your pix.

The blade rides slightly off center normally with the oem single 10mm wide bearing as your pix shows..

JPG
I did basically what you said and I believe that the set screws Were very close to Reibles when I started but when I finished they were back to their original positions. The manual says to maintain some pressure against the brass screws with the spring when making adjustments to the set screws. Putting too much pressure on the screws makes the guide post very difficult to move so the tension must be reduced after each adjustment. This is not a difficult thing to do but the spring tensioning screw on mine has had the slot chewed up apparently from previous adjustments but a 1/2" ignition wrench was used to reach the hex head on the rear of the bracket. Actually works a bit better.

Reible
I thought about possible damage to the spring but I can't afford any down time because the club has a large project for a camp for handicapped kids starting soon. Who knows but this may be an expected and acceptable condition. I just have a phobia about nuts not being fully seated and all threads engaged. Looks weak to me.
Bill V

wa2crk wrote:JPG
I did basically what you said and I believe that the set screws Were very close to Reibles when I started but when I finished they were back to their original positions. The manual says to maintain some pressure against the brass screws with the spring when making adjustments to the set screws. Putting too much pressure on the screws makes the guide post very difficult to move so the tension must be reduced after each adjustment. This is not a difficult thing to do but the spring tensioning screw on mine has had the slot chewed up apparently from previous adjustments but a 1/2" ignition wrench was used to reach the hex head on the rear of the bracket. Actually works a bit better.

Reible
I thought about possible damage to the spring but I can't afford any down time because the club has a large project for a camp for handicapped kids starting soon. Who knows but this may be an expected and acceptable condition. I just have a phobia about nuts not being fully seated and all threads engaged. Looks weak to me.
Bill V

You are adjusting those brass screws in equal but opposite direction each time?

NO According to my manual it says to turn the upper screw when the bearing is low (near the table) and to turn the lower screw when the bearing is at the top. It also says not to make large adjustments. Small amounts repetitively until alignment is achieved.
Bill V

JPG, Sorry my bad. It does say to adjust in opposite directions. When our volunteer effort is done I will try that method. Don't know why I interpreted the text wrong. Chalk it up to old age.
Bill
P.S. to all
Just passed my medical test and can't play with machinery for 24 hrs

I would think it OK to 'play' with machinery, just do not turn it 'on'.